What are the procedures to employ to prevent problems from arising;=preventative maintenance??i have a dometic 15k ducted a.c on a 1997 airstream fifth wheel.

There is a world of difference between a tapping and a rumbling and it is very important you obtain a specialist opinion about it.

The engine would be seriously expensive to overhaul or replace - much more than the car is worth, therefore it is highly desirable to keep on top of all maintenance tasks and to tackle problems as soon as they arise to prevent costs escalating.

You will want to contact your dealer to get this fixed. If this is unnacceptable solution let me know and we can try and work further.
Thanks,
Lee

Ducted unit or straight blow through ?

Ever work on the motor or pay someone or just drive
until problems arise?

What about preventative maintenance,ever do any?

Spark Plugs,Wires,Fuel Filter,Air Filter,Check Fuel Pressure,anything?

Stalls when,under what conditions,at a stop light at idle

Check/Clean air idle solenoid !

Ever clean distributor rotor & cap?

Have to tell us something, so we have something to answer

bearing on crank shaft mite be needing replacing

Ignition Module REMOVAL & INSTALLATION The engine controller is the computer/microprocessor that regulates all ignition functions. All other models (1989-96) employ a 60-way connector. The 1989 models (only) employ an additional 14-way connector. In most cases, the engine controller is mounted in the engine bay to the firewall or a fender. Some early models mount the engine controller in an air duct mounted on the inside left fender. Access to these units hidden in the air duct requires some dismantling of the air duct to get to them. WARNING
Do not remove the grease from the 14-way connector or the connector terminal in the computer. The grease is used to prevent corrosion of the terminals. There should be at least a 1?8 in. (3.1mm) coating of grease on the bottom of the connector terminals. If not, apply a liberal coating of Mopar Multi-purpose grease No. 2932524, or equivalent, over the entire end of the connector plug.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the air cleaner duct from the controller, if equipped.
3. Remove the three module retaining screws.
4. Remove the 14-way (1989 models) and 60-way connectors from the controller. NOTE: Check the 14-way and 60-way connectors for damaged or bent pins (and correct if any are found) prior to plugging it in.
   
5. Installation is the reverse of removal.

Does the fan seem to labor when starting up. (basically starts up but seems slow to get up to speed?) Then when fan is turning at normal speed, the power inside seems to go back to normal?

Your choices are another Dometic or a Coleman
I prefer the Coleman But the amount of extra cooling you will get by stepping up to a 15K unit will probability not be worth the added cost

Actually, the dealer is somewhat correct. In the hotter months of the summer, the rooftop units have a tendency to freeze up if not run on high cool due to the lack of air movement across the evaporator. If the unit fines on High/Cool, then run it in that mode but adjust the thermostat.

It should not however, cycle on and off that fast unless you have a bad freeze switch or the incoming AC is too low. If during that 8-10 seconds, the air begins to get cold and then it shuts off, then I would say you have a bad freeze switch. If it runs fine on high, but shuts off in low, I would say it is a lack of air movement.

Hope this helps,

Jeff

Rate me please!!

If the compressor is run off of a relay then you could install a delay timer to prevent short cycling.

http://www.climatedoctors.com/items/item.aspx?itemid=429504