Lower element does not heat - Maytag Gemini 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding Electric Double Oven Range - Stainless-Steel

I should like to hope I have your answer.
If yours is like most U.S. model, it is called a 220 volt unit.
That is not really 220 volts, it is really 2 separate 110 volt units.
What that means is, there are actually 2 separate 110 volt hot wires to the water heater, usually one hot wire is black, and the other hot wire is red.
One is for the upper heating unit, one is for the lower heating unit. Perhaps your lower unit has blown the circuit breaker for that line.
I mean the circuit breaker in the main fuse box/circuit breaker box.
Did you test the lower wiring to see if the hot wire is hot?
If it is hot, be sure to test the ground wire, and also the wiring between the bottom and the top of the heater inside it.
God bless your efforts.

time for a new element

When the top of the tank is hot the upper thermostat removes power from the upper heating element and transfers the power to the lower thermostat and heating element. If the lower thermostat is defective, then the lower portion of the tank will not be heated and the supply will be greatly reduced. You replaced both elements however check that the lower element is coming on after ther upper one cuts out and is acutally working.
Check for power at the upper thermostat terminals where the power is sent to the lower thermostat and heating element. If there is no power then the upper thermostat should be replaced. If there is power then check for power at the lower heating element. If there is no power at the lower heating element then replace the lower thermostat.
If there is power to the lower heating element then it should be getting hot. If it is not, maybe defective. Another possibility is a broken dip tube. Check for a broken dip tube and replace if necessary.

If the dip tube is broken, the incoming cold liquid can mix with the out going hot liquid and cause it to seem as though you are running out.

your element is bad replace element.

I am guessing this is an ele water heater and the temp setting are not the problem.
Problem: Not enough hot water or water temperature too low. When the top of the tank is hot the upper thermostat removes power from the upper heating element and transfers the power to the lower thermostat and heating element. If the lower thermostat is defective, then the lower portion of the tank will not be heated and the supply will be greatly reduced.
Check for power at the upper thermostat terminals where the power is sent to the lower thermostat and heating element. If there is no power then the upper thermostat should be replaced. If there is power then check for power at the lower heating element. If there is no power at the lower heating element then replace the lower thermostat.
If there is power to the lower heating element then it should be getting hot. If it is not, replace it. Another possibility is a broken dip tube. Check for a broken dip tube and replace if necessary.

The dip tub is located under the fitting where the hot water comes out.

Most electric hot water heaters have two thermostats, one near the top of the tank and one near the bottom, and are covered by removable metal cover plates. The thermostats are pressed firmly against the bare metal wall of the hot water heaters tank.

The top thermostat usually has a high limit switch that will trip if the water gets too hot. When it trips it shuts off the electricity to both the upper and lower heating elements.

To reset the high limit switch there is usually a red button that you must press. When the upper limit switch trips it is often an indication that something else has gone wrong with the heater.

When the top of the tank is hot the upper thermostat removes power from the upper heating element and transfers the power to the lower thermostat and heating element. If the lower thermostat is defective, then the lower portion of the tank will not be heated and the supply will be greatly reduced.
Check for power at the upper thermostat terminals where the power is sent to the lower thermostat and heating element. If there is no power then the upper thermostat should be replaced. If there is power then check for power at the lower heating element. If there is no power at the lower heating element then replace the lower thermostat.
If there is power to the lower heating element then it should be getting hot. If it is not, replace it. Another possibility is a broken dip tube. Check for a broken dip tube and replace if necessary.

Hope this helps out

The heating element is accessible through the lower front access panel. Disconnect power to the dryer prior to servicing to avoid the risk of electric shock.

Remove the two screws attaching the bottom of the lower front access panel to the cabinet then slide the panel down then off the cabinet. The heating element can now be accessed and repalced.

Remove the screws securing the heating element to the heater box then pull down the heating element to remove it from the heater box.

Disconnect and label the wires for the heating element and the components. Remove the components from the old heating element then transfer it to the new heating element.

Slide the new heating element up into the heater box and secure it in place. Align the slots on the top of the lower front access panel with the locating tabs on the front access panel then slide it into position and secure the bottom of the lower front access panel to the cabinet.

A common problem is the heating element goes bad. I have had this happen and you can see a spot on the heating element which looks different from the rest of the element (a clue).

Many ovens have two heating elements. Upper and lower. Now I am no Julia Child, but I think bake turns on just the lower heating element? And broil turns on just the top heating element????

So I suppose you might have it on bake and it is not working. Might try broil and see if that works. If yes, then you are getting power through all the controls to the upper heating element, so good chance just the lower heating element is bad.

If you don't get heat to either the upper or lower heating element, then I would suspect the wiring or a control.

So far as the heating element, you should be able to remove it and using an ohm meter, get some sort of reading if it is good (I have no idea what though). Or open circuit if bad.

Also the insulation on older ranges can "melt" back exposing live wires! This is of course very dangerous and the wiring should only be replaced with high heat range wiring which I assume you could get at an appliance store?

Or the contacts on a control/switch could be bad. I would test this with a continuity tester or ohm meter.

Many appliances have a wiring diagram down low somewhere. Or might find it online.

Oven functions
Oven light.
Upper and lower heating elements.
(Conventional cooking).
Upper and lower heating elements with fan.
(Fan assisted cooking).
Lower heating element with fan.
Inner grill heating element.
(Radiant grill).
Full grill heating element with fan.
(Fan grill)
Rear circular heating element with fan.
(Fan forced cooking).
http://www.sampfordixl.com.au/lagermania/specs/f969d5x.pdf

SMEG have all their manuals online. The SE398X series is at http://www.smegtech.com/site/smeg/myapp/libretti/index.php?model=SC110&lang=EN