How to bore a perfect level 1/2 inch hole in wooden door

Doors are not that expensive, you can get pre-hung units or door blanks, You can try to repair it with Elmers or quick tite bond wood glue but you are going to end up drilling holes that are small in order to place a slat behind the hole to pull on to get a good bond with the glue. In order to do that you drill a 1/2 inch hole about one inch from the edge of the crack, use a popsicle stick and tie a string around the middle of it, slide the stick into the hole you drilled and then apply glue to the crack. Pull on the string to bring pressure from the back side of the crack to the joint you glued. Keep doing this until you get all the way around the crack. You can use new sticks each time. Wipe off the excess glue before it dries. you can then either patch the holes with a wood putty by using the same technique with the sticks or get laminating paper to cover the holes.

Replace Only the door not the jam. right...?
Original is 1 1/4" thick. The new one is 1 1/2" thick.
It's 1/4" thicker. (It'll bide the stopper) So measure the hinge plate rout out, how deep on both (the door and the jam.) If it's same then you have to remove the stopper and re bore the latch hole more to the stopper side to catch center of the latch.
Is it make sense...?

Good luck

Mai

front raise 1 or 1 1/2 inches the side that is the door hinge side is 1/2 inch higher then the handle side. Tilt it on a slit angle towards the way that will force the door with the added weight of food on door shelf's. A perfectly level fridge is a useless fridge. If its only mission is for the doors to close from the maximum range its able to open.

below the cooling element at the back is a groove that drains to a hole - make sure the hole is clear. its safe to use a wooden scewer.
normally this groove and hole are at the same level as the glass shelf.
Good luck

Depending on size beleive it or not BONDO (used for auto body repairs) works great, you can play around with it and add texture or make it smooth by sanding, you can even use course sand paper to give it wood grain look. :)

Hi this is what I would do. 1.buy a shim pack at any hard ware store (wooden wedges) cheap. 2.take one side of bottom hinge off,frame. 3.shut the door and use shims end to end like this >< Where needed to fit door,some on bottem ,one set on knob side and anoughter set on hinge side.At any rate where ever they are needed to leval the door in the frame. 4.buy some wooden dowels to plug frame holes,might have to drill screw holes larger for dowles.Drive dowels in and break them off. 5.swing bottem hinge in to place and screw hinge down.This should work and you may need a wood chissle or flat screw driver for modifacation where hinges seat.You may have to reseat both hinges or put shim stock behind the frame hinges to line up every thing.I hope something here will help and please feel free to ask any questions that you have and add any thing that will help me see this clearer.You will need a person on both sides of the door to drive the shims togeather to keep the door level. Thank you for choosing FixY.com..................Darryel

Are the holes in the door? Are you replacing the old lock? Need to know these things, or I will be typing a bunch of stuff you don't need. Most doors come pre-bored. If not, you need 2 bits, One is 2 1/8 inch cup bit, the forstner type is a lot more expensive, and a 1 inch paddle bit, again, the forstner bit is expensive. Measure up the door app 39 inches, unless there is a lock rail on/in the door, then measure to the center of that. Then on the inside of the door, measure back 2 3/8, most locksets now are adj for 2 3/8 or 2 3/4, you can use either one. You can drill either hole first, To drill your one inch hole in the edge of the door sighting along both sides of the door with your eyes crossed so you can make sure you are going straight, you don't want to bust through the side of the door. Then get the big bit out and drill from the mark till you just come through the other side, then back it out and drill from the other side so you don't tear out the hole. Your 1 inch hole should be all the way into the big hole.Then get you chisels, the sharp ones, put the plunger in the one inch hole, nice and straight, then mark the outside with a sharp pencil, cut the line with the chisel then cut out the waste about 1/8 to 3/16 deep, make sure it fits nice and tight, Predrill the two screw holes, or you will split the door.Get the lockset out, the key to the outside, and the button on the inside of what you are locking. Line up the holes, you might have to spin the button to get them to line up, then put in the 2 long screws. Mark the jamb with the striker, To get it right, put the striker on the door, hooked into the latch, mark the edge of the door with a pencil,then put the striker on the jamb, backwards, to the line you just marked, then out line it, use your 1 inch bit to hog out the middle nice and neat, cut the rest out the same way with the chisels, predrill the holes, you should be all set. OH the deadbolt? You didn't mention that, it goes the same way as the lockset, only the hole is smaller, 1 1/2, I think, you will have to check that. Now you know why people call carpenters.

Here is info I found "Pump:
Two Stage, Cast Iron, Compressor Pump, 5 HP, 17.1 CFM Maximum Free Air Flow At 175 PSI Maximum, 2 Cylinder, Oil Capacity 2 Quarts, Pump Speed 685 RPM, Bore Size 4 3/4 x 2 1/2 Inches, Stroke 3 Inches, Motor Sheave Diameter 6.75 Inches, Flywheel Diameter 16 1/2 Inches, W 18, Depth 16 1/2 Inches, Height 22 1/4 Inches, Outlet 3/4 Inch NPT, Mounting Holes 8 3/4 x 5 3/4 Inches"

use a 3.5 inch string and a pencil to draw the circle and cut with jig saw.

Protect it from temperature and humidity changes. Also obtain some clarinet or woodwind bore oil and apply a small amount to the inside using a swab. I am assuming you have a wooden recorder. Otherwise you can use dish soap and warm water with a shaver brush or a small bore mouthpiece brush and some Qtips for the tone holes. Don't use water on a wooden recorder.