Always have to stop to tighten chain

Hi there, the following information are for a 2004 Grand Am 2.2L, I hope it helps:

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Timing Chain, Sprockets, and/or Tensioner Replacement
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Tighten the chain guide bolts to 10 N·m (89 lb in).
Tighten the chain tensioner bolts to 10 N·m (89 lb in).
Tighten the oil nozzle bolt to 10 N·m (89 lb in).
Timing chain tensioner guide bolt to 10 N·m (89 lb in).
Timing chain bolts to 10 N·m (89 lb in).
Chain guide plug to 90 N·m (66 lb ft).
Timing chain upper guide bolts to 10 N·m (89 lb in).
Timing chain tensioner to 75 N·m (55 lb ft).
Camshaft bolts to 85 N·m (63 lb ft) plus 30 degrees.
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Intake Manifold Replacement
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Manifold Nuts and Bolts: 10 N·m (89 lb in).

YES, and you set the chain tension with - Countershaft sprocket centerline, the swingarm bolt centerline, and the rear axle nut centerline - ALL THREE IN A STRAIGHT LINE....Use a yardstick to make sure they are IN LINE!!! Have one of your fat buddies sit on it while you adjust the chain. Make sure the chain runs IN A STRAIGHT LINE regardless of the marks on the chain tensioners!!!!!!!! I have always loosened the chain a lot, kicking the tire forward so when I CORRECTLY adjust the chain it is MUCH EASIER to make sure the chain is in straight line (you should remove the chain guard so you can see the chain), do it slowly, rotating the tire while watching the chain, making sure IT RUNS TRUE!! - Forget the alignment marks!!... then slowly get the tension correct (with your fat buddy sitting on it).. remember what 3 things HAVE to be in a straight line... snug the tensioners good - NOW tighten the axle...do not over tighten. THEN finish snugging down the chain tensioners. reinstall the chain guard. Double check the axle nut!!!!

Chain tension done professionally!!!

You will need to loosen the blade locking mechanism and then push the bar back in a little bit and put the chain on then pull it back out and adjust to tighten like you would tighten the chain. Did you know that you have to keep adjusting a chain, especially the new ones because they stretch with use, and a lot when new. To keep them running properly and safely the operator must always be cognizant of the slack in the chain. If you are not familiar with the proper tension on the chain, then when it is all tightened down the bottom section of the chain should not be up tight against the bar. That is too tight. You may want to get someone knowledgable in setting the chain to show you or maybe watch a youtube video. It gets very wordy to describe all the factors for setting the chain and it only takes a minute to actually set one.

I would remove the chain and give the guide channel a good cleaning. Use a small blade screwdriver to clean all debris and old bar oil and sawdust. I spray mine down thourghly with WD-40 and wipe dry. I would do the same with the chain to make it has not gotten a little rust on it during storage. Tighten snugly,run for five mins. then recheck and tighten again if needed > If you're still having problems I would try a new chain. Hope this helps.

its normal for them to loosen up over time( every couple months or so) and the chain will stretch out over time also....but after 30min of riding is not right. Are you getting the wheel axle nuts tight enough? if not that could be your problem. try that first....always use a socket or wrench to tighten, not an adjustable wrench this will strip the nut then you will never be able to get them tight enough.....

Depending on the model, you adjust the chain tension using the screw that is located either between or below the two nuts that hold the sprocket/bar/chain cover. Loosen the nuts and turn the screw clockwise to tighten, counter-clockwise to loosen. Once you have the tension set, lift up on the bar from underneath and tighten the two nuts. Proper tension should show about half of the chain drive, and should only be done when cold. After 4 to 5 minutes of run time, stop the saw and check the tension again. A little heat in the bar/chain will cause it to loosen up. It will need re-adjusting.

Is the chain being properly oiled as it runs? Check by running the tip of the bar at speed near a piece of cardboard for several moments--it should throw off a thin line of oil onto the cardboard. If nothing, remove the bar and chain, start the engine and observe the oil port in the side of the engine case. At speed, it should ooze out oil. If so, clean the bar drive-end holes that feed oil to the chain. Pay particular attention to the two small holes that run from the large holes out to the chain groove. If nothing comes out of the engine port, then an inspection of the pump, lines, and tank filter are in order. Make sure the chain is properly sharpened as a dull chain makes a lot of heat which allows the chain to stretch. You should not have to apply high force to the saw to get it to cut. Set chain tension so that the chain does not droop from the bar bottom, but turns easily by hand. Hope this helps!

Where the bar meets the body of the saw there is an adjustment lug that will either push the bar outward tightening the chain or may be retracted allowing slack in the chain. When backed off (loosened) sufficiently, the chain may be removed for replacement. In order to use this feature, however, there are two bolts that secure the bar to the body that must be loosened prior to any adjustment and tightened bach up after making adjustments to the chain. The above will be enough to remove and replae the chain. If you are taking off the bar (that the chain runs on), you will need to remove the two bolts that were just loosened for the chain adjustment (above).
Regards! --WoobieDog--

Does the noise sound like a whining noise or goes up and down in tone when you reve the bike in nutral? If it does the primarly drive chain needs to be adjusted. Under the bike you will see a bolt with a slot on the end of it and a nut around the bolt. This is the bolt for the chain tightner or nylon adjuster. On the same side of the bike you will see a small cover about couple of inches long with two screws in it holding the cover on. This is the primary drive chain inspection hole. You need to remove the cover and with a good flash light you will see a chain. Make sure the bike is shut off, keys removed and properly secured so it wont move. I recommend a small screwdriver to stick in there to see if you can move the chain up and down. If you can move the chain up and down more than 3/8 of inch it needs to be adjusted by turning the slotted screw clock wise a quarter of a turn. Check the chain after you made the quarter turn for starters and see if the drive chain tighten up. It should have tighten up. Keep turning the screw the same way until the primary drive chain has about 3/8 slack in it. Once again do not tighten the chain so you cant move it. The chain has to have some slack in it or it will or you will damage other components. You may also want to call the harly davidson dealer and give them the model of your bike and they should tell you the adjustment range. I run mine at 3/8 and have no problems. Also have you ever changed the transmission fluid? That would not hurt as well after you have done the above. Before you do the above chain adjustment, you will need to run the bike for a few minutes to operating temparature before the adjustment to allow for expansion.

Once you have made the adjustment, you will haft to place a screw driver in the slotted end of the bolt and use a good oepn end metric wrecnh to tighten the nut. Becareful not to over tighten the nut or it will casue stripping of the threads. Then replcae the chain cover and make sure the gasket looks ok before assemblying it. Its a good idea to pick up this gasket for a few bucks as you have about a 50/50 chance it will leak a little if you use the old one. Someone always asks me how tight do I tighten the bolts or screws. I simply say to them try and remember what it felt like when you had to loosen them. apply the same force to tighten them.

the throttle stop had worked loose and would drift from low to high while running. Reset and tightened.