Hi, I have been using a zig zag stitch on cotton, but recently the stitch has appeared on the wrong side of the fabric - that is the side that I am looking at shows the back of the stitch, and the correct stitch is hidden beneath the fabric. Why is this?

Your tension is off. Start by using the sewing computer setting for thick fabric. Sew "test swatches" on scraps of the fleece you're planning to sew until your swatch stitches look correct.

The stitch in the ditch foot is used for stitching directly in the seam line of 2 fabrics, most often for quilting lines. It is also used to sew two fabrics together. For the Stitch in the ditch sewing (quilting) place the needle in the center position, straight stitching and align the protruding blade on the stitch in the ditch presser foot directly on the seam line. Sew straight in the seamline using blade as the guide. To bind 2 fabrics, place the finished edges of the fabrics together, side by side touching. Place the foot with the blade between the two fabrics.Guide the fabric to touch the blade as you sew.
Set the stitching to zig zag stitch. Sew zig zag, keeping the fabrics touching the protruding guide on the presser foot. Hope this helps!

Stretch cotton fabric? Use a ball point needle and probably a zig-zag stitch. The more stretchy the fabric, the wider the stitch and the shorter stitch length between the zig-zags. If the thread is popping when you stretch the seam, then widen the zig-zag and shorten the stitch length.

Yes, because a zig zag stitch is creating a wide stitch and the tension on the thread is going to pull the fabric within the seam together, you can't seam thin fabric with a wide zig zag. It will "tunnel together". If you are using this stitch to neaten a raw edge, then try using the serpentine or three step zig zag where the needle pierces the fabric 3 times in each leg of the zig zag, this will give better results.

When zig zagging over a raw edge, the tension on the thread will pull in the fabric, especially in lightweight cottons or even lighter organza. Its not the best edging method for very light weight fabrics. You can try using a smaller zig zag, loosening off the top tension a little bit. Or if your machine has it, use the triple zig zag or serpentine stitch, where the needle goes through the fabric three times to make up each zig stitch, this stitch is better for edging most fabrics and is my preferred stitch.

sounds like the timing is off and will need a service call to get it reset. your local fabric store should know who you can call.

You have the machine set for blind hem stitching. Change the stitch selector to stretch stitch, which is a single, in line stitching zig zag stitch.

Cheers,
Embroidery Services
San Diego, CA

here is a link to great info on sewing.about.com which explains this technique with images, http://sewing.about.com/od/techniques/ss/machineblindsti.htm

In brief, you need to fold the fabric to be hemmed into a Z shape with the wrong side hem edge at the bottom of the Z.

The Blind stitch is either three straight stitches then a wide zig zag which swings to the left and catches a little bit of the folded edge, or three small zig zags, then one wide zig zag to the left to catch one stitch into the folded edge. The zig zag style has a little more stretch in it so works good on jerseys and knits.
You need to use the blind hemming foot which helps you to line up the folded edge and keep it at a constant distance from the needle. It will look like this.
Turn the little silver screw to move the white plastic guide left or right until you've got just a smidgen of fabric being stitched by the left wide stitch. Always do a practice sample first to get the stitching and guide set right. On most machines you can vary the width of the big zig by adjusting the stitch width dial a little.

You need to adjust the blind hemming foot guide so that the needle is just catching a tiny amount of your folded fabric because this is the stitch which shows on the right side of the fabric when you unfold the Z. So forget trying to hem satin or expensive fabrics this way, a hand sewn stitch will give a much better finish.

Blind hemming works best on a hem which is continuously straight on the same grain line, its not great for a curved hem. So if you've got a tiered skirt or the frill on a bed valance, it is fine as the fabric edge to be hemmed will be a continuous straight length. You can use it on a slightly curved hem for jerseys as the fabric has more give, and patterns will help to disguise the stitching too.

I hope that this helps you to sew your blind hem, 4 thumbs up if so.

Check the bobbin tension too. It could be too tight. Make sure you are using the right size needle for the material as well. Sheer, thin fabric needs a smaller needle, thicker material requires bigger needles. Bobbin tension is the typical problem as most think to adjust the top tension but don't check the bobbin tension.

Is your quilt peices cotton? Cotton shouldn't cause as much trouble sewing along the edge but don't use too long of a stitch length else it will seem to gather up. Puckering side to side however is a tension problem usually. With sheerer fabrics that cause a problem sometimes you can put thin paper underneath, sew through both and then pull the paper off after sewing. (thin like the iron on type interfacing type fabric but like paper).

THis problem occurred as I was sewing on Neoprene. I was using Gutterman all-purpose thread and a size 80 needle. Tried switching to a size 70, then to size 90. Still unable to zig zag. After inserting a test sample of cotton, the zig zag worked perfectly, so I knew it was not a mecahnical problem. I switched needles again. This time to size 90 for stretch fabric. Voila! Problem solved.