LG DLE2532w electric dryer won't heat

Check the vent - if clogged like mine was the hot air generated does not leave and stops unit from working when it overheats. The line and water vapor form a sort of paper mache that effectively blocks the exhaust.

With the drum out, facing the dryer, it's on the left side, mounted on the exhaust baffle, close the the high limit thermostat. It has one wire leading to it.

The problem needs to be identified as it could be one of 4 problems.
The Thermal fuse needs to be checked firstly as this prevents overheating of the dryer.
If it is OK check the continuity of the heating element with an Ohm meter, check also whether there is a reading present, meaning it should not read zero Ohms.
Components that do not commonly cause this problem are the High Limit Thermostat and the Main Control Board.
If the first 2 checks are fine, check the thermostat to see whether it is "open" (Not giving a reading on an Ohm meter) if so, replace.
The main control board very seldomly causes this problem but it does not rule it out.

Which thermostat is it? Do you have a part number? Look on the thermostat for the number.

It doesn't necessarily mean the heating element is busted when an electric dryer stops heating. The heating circuit is not just composed solely by the heating element, it is composed by the thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, motor centrifugal switch, and the timer. The first thing to look at when an electric dryer stops heating is the thermal cut-off. It cuts power to the heating element when it blows most likely due to the failure of the high-limit thermostat. The thermal cut-off must be replaced, together with the high-limit thermostat, if found open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this problem.

Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers (Filter on Top and with Removable Back Panel) Running But Not Heating

The problem is either the Safety Thermostat TH2, High-Limit Thermostat TH3, or the Heating Element itself. Here's what you should do find which among is the culprit.

Use a putty knife blade or similar tool to push and release the clips holding the top panel to the front panel. Insert the putty knife between the top panel and the front panel as shown at about 2 and 3/4 inches from the edges then push in until the clips are released then lift the top panel off.


Open the door then remove the two screws at the bottom of the door opening as shown.



Remove the two screws from the upper side of the front panel then pull the panel out and disconnect the Door Switch connector.


Once the front panel is removed, you'll see the Heater Box at the bottom right hand side of the cabinet. Remove the cover and you'll see three sets of the terminals on the left side of the Heater Box. The set of three terminals is the Heating Element, the middle set is the Safety Thermostat TH2, while last set is High-Limit Thermostat TH3.


Using a multimeter, set to the lowest Ohm scale (R X 1), check the continuity of the Safety Thermostat TH2 and High-Limit Thermostat TH3 then the resistance between the middle terminal of the Heating Element and the other two terminals.

The Safety Thermostat TH2 and the High-Limit Thermostat TH3 are both normally closed and any discontinuity (open circuit) found indicates that the component has failed. It is necessary to replace both the Safety Thermostat TH2 and the High-Limit Thermostat TH3 if one of them has failed. The Safety Thermostat TH2 is likely to fail as a result of the High-Limit Thermostat TH3 failure.

The normal resistance between the middle terminal (2) and the upper terminal (1) is 18 ohms to 22 ohms while between the middle terminal (2) and the lower terminal (3) is 9 ohms to 11 ohms. Replace the Heating Element if an infinite resistance (open circuit)reading is obtained in any the measurements.

You may take the Heating Element out then thoroughly check it visually for any obvious coil discontinuity if you don't have a the meter to check the continuity of Safety Thermostat TH2 and the High-Limit Thermostat TH3 and the resistance of the Heating Element. It will be obvious if the Heating Element has a broken coil.

The problem lies in either of the Safety Thermostat TH2 or the High-Limit Thermostat TH3 if the Heating Element coils is intact. Bypass both the Safety Thermostat TH2 and the High-Limit Thermostat TH3 then reconnect the Door Switch connector. Run the dryer and it should heat by now to indicate that either the Safety Thermostat TH2 or the High-Limit Thermostat TH3. Otherwise, it is a totally different story. Please let us know if that is the case.

Warning! Do not use the dryer with the Safety Thermostat TH2 and the High-Limit Thermostat TH3 bypassed due to fire hazards.

leave back panel alone you have to access from the front there should be a lower front panel

ask for old the fuse ,,lg have resettable thermostat...keep me posted,,its a push botton thermosatat..also they replaced this thermostat with a higher rated one,,,if you need part # just ask onthejob keeps uint from having to be reset...

DLE2532W is an electric heat model. (a gas model would be a DLG......) To get a rear control LG dryer apart: Open door and remove two phillips head screws at the 5 and 7 o'clock positions. Use a putty knife to release the clips holding the top panel to the dryer front by pushing the clips in at the seam of the dryer top and front, a couple inches in from each side. Swing top back. Remove two phillips head screws at the top, allowing front panel to pull forward. Unplug drum light and door switch and drum sensor plugs, allowing front panel to be completely removed and set aside. Now, look at the burner area at the lower right. Behind the gas valve you will find a small (about dime sized) high limit thermostat on the left side of the burner cone. It has two wires attached and has a small pin in the center of it. (Only on gas models) Push the pin in.
Now, if that get's you ignition again, CORRECT VENTING ! Get rid of flexible vent material. (use only rigid aluminum vent pipe and elbows) Clean out vent pipes and outside vent hood. Outside vent hood should be the kind with a four inch flap for the opening, not a two inch flap. Tripping of the high limit thermo is almost always caused by inadequate air flow.

i have replaced TH2 in my dle0322 about 6 times now. It never lasts more than a month. What could be causing this?