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The electronic ignition system in a gas furnace is a modern development that provides more reliable performance than a standing pilot and offers energy savings through better furnace efficiency. There are two basic types of electronic ignition systems:
An intermittent pilot system uses an electronically controlled high-voltage electric spark to ignite a pilot light and subsequently the main burners when the thermostat calls for heat.
A hot surface ignition system uses an electronically controlled resistance heating element, not unlike a light bulb filament, to ignite the gas burner.
Understanding some of the basic components of a modern furnace will help you identify the type of furnace you have and narrow down the list of potential problems.
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Types of Electronic Ignition Furnaces
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Most furnaces with electronic ignition are either conventional induced draft furnaces or high-efficiency condensing furnaces.
Induced draft furnaces use a small fan to draw the combustion gasses from the combustion chamber and out of the house through the flue (chimney). This system is more reliable and safer than old conventional furnaces, which relied on a natural draft coming in from an opening at the front of the furnace. Induced draft furnaces use either an intermittent pilot (IP) or hot surface ignition (HSI) instead of a standing pilot light. The combination of electronic ignition, electronic controls, and artificially created draft improves the efficiency of induced draft furnaces over older conventional models. Condensing furnaces use two heat exchangers, where conventional furnaces use only one. After the gas is burned to heat the primary heat exchanger, the secondary heat exchanger draws heat out of the hot exhaust gasses, cooling them to the point that the water vapor in the exhaust condenses into water. The resulting flue gases are so cool they can be vented outside via a plastic (PVC) pipe, while the condensed water is run to a floor drain. Condensing furnaces use hot surface ignition (HSI).
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Troubleshooting an Intermittent Pilot (IP)
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Typically found in induced draft furnaces, an intermittent pilot ignites the burner gas with a high-voltage spark only when the thermostat calls for heat. Once the pilot is lit, and the main burner senses the pilot flame (using a flame sensing rod), the main burner ignites. The intermittent pilot flame goes out after the heating cycle and remains off until the next time the thermostat calls for heat.
The furnace gas valve for this type of furnace is identifiable with its solenoid designations: MV, PV, and PV/MV - where MV = main valve, PV = pilot valve, and PV/MV = common.
Common problems with IP ignition include:
Ignition doesn't occur, and the furnace won't go on
A spark is present, but the pilot won't light
Pilot lights, but the main burner doesn't come on
Burners ignite but turn off after a few seconds
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Troubleshooting a Hot Surface Igniter (HSI)
The hot surface igniter (HSI) is the most commonly used electronic ignition system. It works like a light bulb filament, heating up when electricity is passed through it. Most are made from silicon nitride or silicon carbide. The igniter is located in the flow of gas entering the burners.
When the thermostat calls for heat, 24 volts are sent to the electronic ignition control module, which energizes the furnace blower and other systems and sends 120 volts to the HSI. The HSI heats up to around 1,800°F to 2,500°F and glows red-hot. Then the gas valve opens, and the burner gas is ignited by the HSI. Once a proper flame is sensed by the flame sensor, the HSI turns off and stays off until the next heating cycle. In some furnaces, the HSI also serves as a flame sensor (called local sensing) instead of having a separate sensing rod in the burner flame (remote sensing).
Under normal conditions, an HSI should last for three to five years, and they eventually crack and need to be replaced. This can happen sooner if the oils from your skin get on the element through improper handling. That means: Don't touch the element with your bare hands!
HSIs usually cost between $25 and $50, and it's a good idea to keep a spare on hand, in case one goes out at night or on the weekend, when you can't easily get a new part.
Here are some of the common causes of HSI failure:
Premature failure due to improper handling (oil from skin got onto element)
Improper igniter
End of normal usage life cycle (keep a replacement on hand)
Voltage in the furnace electrical circuit is too high (over 125 VAC)
Severely dirty air filter, causing the high-temperature limit switch to cycle the furnace ignition on and off frequently
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Reading Control Board Codes
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Most modern furnaces with electronic ignition systems have an integrated circuit board that controls many sophisticated processes. The boards can perform self-diagnostics and provide failure codes, similar to the diagnostic computer in your car.
If a failure occurs, LED lights on the control board light up in a blinking pattern to indicate a specific failure code. The codes are listed in a chart in the owner's manual and usually on a door or access panel on the furnace. Control boards are usually located inside the blower compartment of the furnace. If the board has blinking lights, refer to the chart to decipher the code and help identify the problem area with the furnace.
IF YOU LOST POWER WHEN FURNACE WAS RUNNING IT TRIPPED ROLLOUT SWITCHES AND POSSIBLY THE HIGH LIMIT . IN CENTER OF ROLLOUT SWITCHES IS A LITTLE RED BUTTON THAT YOU RESET . YOU CAN ALSO TRY FINDING HIGH LIMIT WITH POWER SHUT OFF TO FURNACE PULL BOTH WIRES OFF HIGH LIMIT AND USE PAPER CLIP TO JUMP BETWEEN THE TWO WIRES MAKE SURE YOU DONT SHORT OUT AGAINST ANY METAL WHEN YOU TURN BACK ON IF IT WORKS YOU NEED A NEW HIGH LIMIT SWITCH.
This is either a problem with the spark igniter or the circuit board. Here is a link to all of the spark electrodes for Suburban:
http://suburbanrvparts.com/furnace-parts/furnace-parts-by-category/spark-electrodes/
Here's a link to the circuit boards for Suburban furnaces:
http://suburbanrvparts.com/furnace-parts/furnace-parts-by-category/module-boards/
see this causes and fix it. God bless you If the furnace won't run, check the electrical service panel
for a blown fuse or tripped breaker. Also make sure the power switch on
or near the furnace is turned on. Check the unit for a reset button and
try it. Some units have a built-in breaker or fuse panel. However you can have a missing 1 phase , test with the VOM, for to measure voltage. Or motor need repair for winding trouble,bearing.If you do not have enough experience call some electrician. God bless you
Usually when the furnace blower motor runs all the time
The limit switch or rollout switch is usually open or bad.
The furnace board is seeing that one of those switches is open, so it brings the blower on to try to get the heat out of the combustion chamber area, so the switch will close. But if the switch is bad and won’t close, the furnace board will keep the blower running continuously.
First find the electronic control board. Is the diagnostic light on and flashing a code? If not look for the automotive type fuse on the board. It is a 3 amp. Is it blown? Next look for a screw in fuse in the ssu switch on the side of the furnace. Is it blown? If all the fuses are good is the door switch behind the front cover working? Is the door properely installed? If all these items are working, you should have power to the furnace. If these items are ok, check for 24volts at the transformer. Check the terminals not black and white. If you have voltage there, remove the red and white thermostat wires on the control board. Next take jump wire and jump the red and white terminals. This rules out the stat and stat wiring. Your furnace should start. Check the status light for any further problems and crossreference the flashing light code to fix.
1.Not an expert with natural gas furnaces. 2.Statements below are from my own personal experience, and knowledge from.
The red blinking light you see is on a computer control board. The flashes of the red light represent a type of code. Think of it as a Morse Code, if you will.
For example: Red light blinks three times rapidly, pause, then blinks one more time. This code represents a particular fault. (Fault = Problem)
There is a sticker, with a chart of codes listed for this red light. It is usually placed very near the red light.
A gas furnace should be repaired by a competent HVAC technician. This is not a device that should be attended to, by those who are not trained. An HVAC technician will know where to look, what parts are needed, and if the gas furnace is safe enough to put back on line. (Safe enough to use)
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