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okay, first thing i would do is turn down your gain. Sounds like you are over working the amp thats wire your amp gets hot and shut off, it's going into protection mode. Is your amp enough for your subs. Some times not getting enough power to your amp might do this too. But if your subs wattage is way over your amp watts, you need to upgrade your amp. Also check your subs and see how the are wired up with the ohms, And see if your amp can take a 1 ohm stable load or how ever it's wired up at. hope this was helpfull.
Most likely the ohm load is too low, if you have the subs wired in parallel rewire them in series and see if that resolves the problem. if not then you do not have enough battery power to support the draw that the amplifier pulls. if the vehicles voltage drops below 11.5 volts the amplifier will momentarily shut off, similar to how the lights in your house dim when the a/c cuts on due to the sudden power draw. hope this helps. p.s. if you cant afford another battery right away, lowering the crossover frequency to around 65hz will greatly reduce the amount of current necessary to keep the amp pumping. (in my opinion it sound better that way anyhow.)
turn down music open sub box and put another speaker at wire and check again if work means sub is ok if not check the signal cable, and put there the speaker to try signal
Sounds like the subs are blown with the voicecoils fused together which means the amp is/was seeing a dead short ( zero Ohms reisitence) not good for any amp. Disconnect the speaker terminals from the amp and see if it turns on. The funny smell might have been the subs blowing up, i'll keep my fingers crossed for you.
Is there a option on the chanels that say ''Bridged''? If so, you can hook the subs up in parellel or series to get different ohm loads. Usually the lower ohms, the more power amp puts out. Those subs can handle 225 watts RMS whitch means the power it can handle constantly. If the amp gives more than 225 watts RMs, you could be at risk of blowing the sub. If you could give me the model # of the amp, I can be of more help.
first of all you should check the minimal impedance your amp handles , if is class d it should handle between 1-2 ohms total impedance in a mono conection , meaning whatever quantity of subs you have hooked to your amplifier,their total impedance should the minimum the amp handles that way all the power from your amplifier will be used.
I've got a pair of these MTX's subs powered from a Fusion 450 watt 2-channel amp. For the price, they are great. By the way, they are 4-ohm.
My first suspicion would be that something in the first incorrect wiring damaged either the amp or the subs. Can you explain specifically what the "installing the subs incorrectly" means? Was the amp output shorted out at any time or was it operated without a load? Either of these conditions will fry an amp and sometimes, the protection circuitry doesn't work either.
First make sure that your amp is still working. Check both the primary power fuse, usually located near the vehicle battery, and the fuses on both sides of the amp. Make sure that when you turn the system on, the power light comes on steady (blinking is protection mode). Test your subs one at a time on a speaker output.
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