Philips 42PF9631D 42 in. Plasma Television Logo

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Posted on May 11, 2017
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TV SCREEN WHILE WATCHING WILL BLINK AND BLANK INTO BLACK SCREEN

THROUGHOUT THE PAST TWO DAYS, MY FLAT 47" SCREEN PHILLIPS TV HD 1080 WHILE WATCHING MY SHOWS A GOOD ESTIMATED 7-15 MINUTES WILL BLINK AND THEN TURN BLACK, YOU CAN HEAR THE AUDIO OF THE SHOW BUT THE SCREEN WILL TURN ALL BLACK, WE HAVE TO SHUT IT DOWN FOR A WHILE AND THEN ON AGAIN. HOWEVER, NOW, SOMETIMES, WHEN YOU FIRST TURN ON THE TV YOU HEAR A STATIC NOISE COMING FROM THE BACK (LASTS FOR UP TO SEVERAL MINUTES, BUT I HAVE DECIDED TO SHUT DOWN). WHAT COULD BE THE CAUSE AND SOME SOLUTIONS TO THIS PROBLEM? ANY RECOMMENDATIONS?

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  • Philips Master 76,851 Answers
  • Posted on May 12, 2017
The Knight
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Joined: Oct 14, 2010
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Fault at its main digital board. Short circuited component/s at it. Contact any service technician; or the authorized service center. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Pull up older posts.
http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
In most cases, the main board might have to be replaced. If so, a software [firmware] update too might be necessary

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 77 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 01, 2008

SOURCE: Philips 42 in. Plasma shut down

The LED blinking 7 times is a code to tell the service tech what is wrong with the TV. From what I've read at other sites it sounds like there;s a good posibility that it is a power supply gone bad.

You probably should call a TV repair shop for assisitance.

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on May 28, 2008

SOURCE: Black Screen after 5 mins. of use

It sounds like the entire screen goes blank with your problem. My problem is the lower half of the screen goes blank. Do you think the SSB is also the problem? What are your thoughts about the "Video Board" or the X Board?

Do you know where to purchase parts?

Anonymous

  • 744 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 12, 2009

SOURCE: Screen Problem

hi....Your tv picture is managed by several boards, the two specific ones are the ysus and the xsus. The Y controlls the horizontal pixelation and the X the verticle, if you are having horizontal problems then its the Ysus thats faulty, on this particular set, the Ysus board has two accompaning buffers that are particularly troublesome. I've had more than one of these sets in the shop recently with the same ailment.Sounds like your buffers are starting to go out. The screen is split horizontally by the two long skinny buffers attatched to the Y main, if the bottom one has one leg in the grave you'll be getting a partially black screen or no picture at all. The colored lines running through the screen are more typical of a failing buffer. Are you interested in taking this set apart and putting a couple hundred into fixing it?  When buffers go they usually take the Y main too. Worse case scenario you're gonna be out about $350 dollars to fix it yourself. Best case, a ribbon is loose on the bottom buffer and with a dismantle you'll be able to connect it again..

thank u rate me!!

Anonymous

  • 80 Answers
  • Posted on May 21, 2009

SOURCE: Screen lower half goes black/blank

The lower "Y Buffer" board is defective. Best repaired by a technician, or contact Phillips support for the part if you think you are able to replace a small circuit board on your own.

Anonymous

  • 148 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 04, 2010

SOURCE: Philips 47

Hi there, they problem is not in the input to the tv (dvd/cable etc) your powerboard/videoboard is overheating! Right away place a fan as close to the back of the tv as possible, this will help cool the circuits down and might considerably prolong the usefullness of the tv..The next step in it breaking down is total powerloss, or a blinking powerlight, eitherway this is your solution;The caps (capacitors) in the powerboard are going out. This is a very common problem in all class and price ranges of modern lcd and plasma tv's/ monitor's. I don't know if this problem has been like this for awhile or it just started, but either way, if the tv takes an abnormal amount of time to "warm" up then it most likely will go out all the way sometime in the (near) future. If you have a tiny bit of will and knowledge ypou can open the unit and get to the print board. Examine this for "popped" capacitors, they will have a buldging top instead of a flat one. Im gonna try to include a pic of them here, if i can get it this time, I've tried bfore lol. But you can google image a "popped" or "bad" capacitor and you would be able, with ease, to diagnose if you have any of these. Usually only one or two. Radioshack sells capacitors (couple anyway) for $1.59 each. MAKE SURE the replacement is of the SAME voltage or HIGHER, or you will be right back replacing those 2. Every capacitor has a negative pole marked with an (-) on the side of the capacitor(by one of the "legs", always puit the negative (-) "leg" of the new capacitor in the same hole in the printboard as where the previous negative (-) "leg" of the capacitor was ( a capacitor with the negative and positive "legs" put in backwards will result in the new piece "popping" as sson as you turn it on!!) make sure the "uf" rating (for example the most common popped capacitor is the 1000 uf) is the same as the one you are replacing. I needed 1000 uf, 105 c and 26v (volt) ratings for the 1 capacitor I needed to replace to fix my LG 19" lcd panel monitor I found by the trash that the light came on off, but it didn't come on. I replaced that capacitor with ; 1000uf, 85 c and 36 v (volts0...It works fine eventhough the volts and the temperature rating (36v and 85c) was not the same as the (26v(volt) and 105c ) capacitor I removed !! Further, I've replaced capacitors that had the celcius rating of 105 with the only ones Radioshack had, namely 85 c(celsius) they have been working great, but I'm not sure about any effect, nor have I heard or read (yet?) about that making an urgent difference. Many threads that I've read people have done the same, so we should be ok (my stuff has been running good for a while longer then most brand new ones!.............(all these ratings ; 'uf ' and 'c' etc are on the side of the capacitor you are replacing and on the side of the ones you are replacing them with)...For all this all you need is the cheapest solder gun u can find (I bought one for $7.99 at Radioshack), a camera (to take pictures as you go to remember how to reassemble the unit) and, once you have your materials, 20 minutes to replace 2 or 3 capacitors and you are good to go...Most monitors and tvs (lcd/plasma) I've seen you have to lay flat on the ground/bed/blanket etc, to work on (screen side down). Usually there are 2 or 3 screws (or a few more) to remove, then you will have to carefully (its comes off easily most times)insert a flat screwdriver inbetween the casing and gently pry it up as you go around the whole frame. Sometimes you have to remove the little washer arouind the cable input orso, just be gentle and you cant go wrong. Once insidet here will be a box with wires running to the sides etc...unplug, gently, these wires and open the box. Inside you will find 2 or 3 circuitboards, check them all for "popped" capacitors, replace, reassemble and plug it in....Have fun becoming an overnight tv mechanic lol! If this helped (or not )please rate, thank you!d4195d7.jpg

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