Hello, I have whirlpool dryer model # LER7646JQ0. My dryer works great with one exception, it has no heat. I checked the heating element and all of the coils are intact. I then replaced the thermostat and thermal fuse (both located on the dryer vent) and still NO HEAT. I have a digital multi-meter. My electrical outlet reads 243vac. On the washer, one of the power wires reads 120vac and the other reads 121vac. How exactly do I check each component, wires, fuses, etc... and what are they supposed to read?
Check for 220 volts from one terminal to the other on the heating element. If it has volts then it may be the centrifical switch on the motor.The switch won't let the heat work until the motor reaches a certain speed then it kicks in and you have heat. Most have 2 large red wires that are the heater wires check from where the wires connect with ohm meter. you can slide the switch on the motor shaft by putting your finger on the slide behind the switch
& pushing it back if the meter don't move the switch is bad.It is a safety thing if the motor should stop it would stop the fan and burn something up maybe your house.If you don't have volts at the heating element get the diagram out & check everything from the timer to the heating element. I'm not to good at explaining things. Hope this helps good luck
SOURCE: Hello, I have whirlpool dryer model # LER7646JQ0.
Hello avonladywend,
After reading your post I can't help but wonder, have you checked to insure the dryer has 240vac going to it. These dryer's will appear to work almost perfectly with 120vac, with one exception...you guessed it, No Heat !
If you know the location of your homes service panel go to it. Locate the 30amp breaker and turn it all the way "off" and then all the way "on" do not just identify it and assume it is ok because ot doesn't appear "tripped".
This happens all to often when I go to a customers home. The first words out of there mouths is "It's not the breaker I checked" and then I physically check "reset" the breaker ( after verifying the dryer is only receiving 120vac and not 240vac with my meter ) and what do you know, heat !
That could be the problem all it's own. The other thing to look for is a poor connection ( loose and burnt or badly oxidized...or both ) on either of the "hot" cord lines coming into the unit, either the red or black.
Let me know what you find out, but that's where I'd be looking before installing anymore part's.
good luck.
macmarkus :)
Testimonial: "power good. cords good. what next?"
SOURCE: changad out heater element, replaced the rear drum
what is the brand name and model number?on some models there are relays in the top console one for the motor and one for the heater or even heat board is bad,also check at the block where the plug connects to the machine and make sure you have 220 to 240 volts coming to the dryer,you could have a problem with the house braker,also,get a meter unplug the dryer,remove at least one of the wires you're going to check with the meter,touch the connectors to the part,if you get any reading the part is good,no reading it's bad,checking for continuity is simple and saves you money because you're not changing out good parts,send the model number
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