Kolher magnum 25--worked great last year,now starts right up but runs full throttle...won't idle down ?????????

no ca/truckr model told at all, of many 3 or 4.
no engine told and is and engine problem.

the VIN digit #8 is the engine code

NO model told.
ram 1500 ?, 2500, 3500 or 4000 , and not the Ram van. 1998 (4000 Mexico or Canada)
no engine told one is Diesel;,
3.9 L Magnum V6
5.2 L Magnum V8
5.9 L Magnum V8
5.9 L Cummins turbo-diesel I6<<< ill not cover this ever.
8.0 L Magnum V10

does the starter motor always work correctly every time, called cranking?

we get the fact it does not start. sometimes
but what is not clear, at all, is that the starter always makes this sound called cranking? or fails to do cranking

see MP3 post

not told at all when did this car last run great ?

• last decade?
• year?
• or last week?
• or you never saw it run right ever, great questions no?

well it is 34 year old car ALL OLD CARS ARE MONEY SINK /Pits!

I'D start with a full compression test , tell me why spend a fortune on all that stuff and the engine is bad.? (but rust fee car I WOULD)
EFI can not run a dead or bad engine, weak yes, dead no.

john above thinks your car is TWB throttle by wire, sorry joHn NOT in 1989, IT HAS NO TBI HERE OR IS IT TWB.
IT IS JUST AND GOOD OL;' THROTTLE BODY.
compression tests
what is idle speed no 800 or 400 rpm?
vacuum test if vacuum bounces at idle the valves are burned or cam is timed worn or even distributor bad.
at least use new distributor new cap, rotor and wire sets and spark plugs gapped to spec do not ..0.045:" as sparks come new in the box,do not do that.
I cant hear the engine run and sound bad. nor see the tachometer.
to see if cold and hot rpm are correct.
The TB (unlike Johns joke twb) is just TV and a side mounted tps and a IAc VALVE THAT MOST TIMES NEVER EVER LASTED THIS LONG. IAC AIR VALVE IS FOR IDLE.
THE ISC IS A 2 WIRE, IDLE CONTROLER FOR HOT ENGINE, MEANS NORMAL. AND THEY LOVE TO GUM UP.
JUST CLEAN IT.'
IF YOU USE A TIMING LIGHT YOU CAN SEE SPARK TIMED WRONG, AND MUST BE SO.
THE ORDER, GOOD ENGINE, GOOD SPARK AND LAST IF GOOD FUELING.
NO INJECTOR CLOGS OR LEAKAGE.

IS THE CEL LAMP ON KEY ON? THEN TURNS OFF RUNNING
OBD1 IT IS THEN.
AND HAS JUMPER FOR BLINK CODES THEN.

IF I DRIVE ALL OVER TOWN HERE THERE ARE NO 1989 ON THE ROAD NOW. SUPER RARE TO SEE EM.
DUE TO THE MONEY PIT.
HOUSES AND POWER BOATS ARE WORSE.

WONDERING THE DIESEL BIT (GROSS MISFIRE? OR IS BACKFIRING? TO THE AIR CLEANER?) OR IS HOT RUNNING PING>?(KNOCK/DETONATION)?
IF IT PINGS?, 2 CAUSES. (TOP) DISTRIB TIMED WAY TO FAR ADVANCED (BTDC TOO FAR) OR EGR BAD IF PINGS UP HILLS.
EGR IS OFF LINE AT IDLE IF NOT IT IS HOOKED UP ALL WRONG.

just TB here, the water heated and one part is IAC air.
when cold it provides its own cold start and cold running idle air and thus speed (RPM) there when hot , the ISC electric idle speed takes over,and runs hot rpm, if either one fails idle is way too low.
and surges and shacks hard, and even stalls.
if idle too low not 800rpm or more.then hold the throttle and make it idle say about 1000rpm if engine sounds good the BINGO.
not told who car drives. misfires at all speeds and loads?
tell the full story and get 10x better answers.
and do not listen to new car answers above TBW,.
period there is no electric motor on this TB below at all
also look for bad vacuum hoses or connect up wrong.

broken/missing return throttle spring
jammed throttle cable

You've been running the unit with the wrong oil to gas ratio and now the unit runs rich - there is no real way to fix it at this point - you can adjust the carb but it will not probably hold the idle you desire - but then again blowers are to be ran wide open 85% of the time so don't sweat it too much on this unit but practice better maintenance and a proper mix ratio in the future.

try and clean the screen inside the muffler

Generally this is a fuel / air ratio problem. Usually it can be solved by a carb adjustment. On the carb there are usually two screws, one marked low or L , the other marked high or H. Low is your adjustment for idle mixture, high is for mixture at full throttle. The saw should Always be adjusted to run well during the cut. Make adjustments a little at a time, then try The saw. Continue small adjustments untill the saw is performing well at full throttle while Cutting.

You need to inspect the throttle mechanism at the carburetor. When you pull the throttle trigger, it should move the throttle arm to it's 'full on' stop, and when it is released, the arm should come back to the idle stop screw. If the action seems to be indefinite, take the throttle trigger mechanism apart (make notes of part placement as you go), and clean it of sawdust and dirt. Don't run the engine until the throttle is working correctly. The 'stop' switch may also be full of sawdust, or the connecting wire may be damaged. Make sure the carburetor fasteners are tight as an air leak behind the carburetor can cause engine racing. Hope this helps!

Hello:

From your Description it Sounds like the Exhaust is Restricted or the "H" Mixture Screw Resuires Adjusting.
>>The Following is a Basic Instruction File for Doing a Diagnostic on the Engine for this Problem. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>**Remove the Muffler and Make Sure the Exhaust Port is Clear.
>>If it is, then Try to Start the engine with the Muffler Off.
>>If it Starts and Runs Properly, then Clean the Spark Arrestor Screen in the Muffler or Replace the Muffler if Required.
>>The Following is the Instruction File for Setting the Air Mixture Screws. Any Input is Appreciated. The Procedure is the Same for 1 or 2 Mixture Screws, Just Use the Instruction File and Skip Over the Section with the Missing Mixture Screw ( Usually the H Mixture Screw).
>>Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:
>>****Turn the Idle Air (L) and Main Air (H) Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine.
>>Turn the Main Air (H) Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. **Carefully Use your Finger and Move the Governor Arm to Rev the Engine (on Chainsaws and Trimmers Use the Trigger to Rev the Engine) Until you Reach Max RPMs (on Chainsaws and Trimmers, the RPMs are Not Set to MAX. Set to Max and then Reverse the Setting Screw 1/4 or 1/2 Turn. If the H Mixture Screw is Set too High; the Engine will be Starved for the Oil in the Gas and Damage the Piston and Jug/Cylinder) and the Engine is Running Proper at Full Throttle Up a Grade and for Chainsaws and Trimmers they Do Not Bog DOwn Under a Load. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs.**
>>Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required.
>>Now Set the Idle Air (L) Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Rapidly Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.****
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If I Missed Something or you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

jbridger (John)

Start with the spark plug it is the easiest.

But sounds like the carbourator is dirty, Probably fouled with old gas varnish. When it is idling give it a little throttle, flip the choke on and then full throttle. If it goes full throttle and doesn't conk out, it is a fuel issue.

Good Luck