AER5515QAQ Not working

Ron Coons

• 2651 Answers
• Posted on Nov 07, 2008

SOURCE: pot boiled over on amana

ouch!!!! leave it off, your gonna need to replace 1 or more of the burner switches,, hte unit will need to be dissambled to figure whigh ones are burnt and shorting unit out. id leave the breakers off for now

SOURCE: amana gas range will not heat up in bake mode

it turned out to be the igniter...a friend tested it and found it to be bad.....

SOURCE: electric oven and stovetop do not work, clock and oven light do.

Sounds like you are only getting 120 volts instead of 240 volts. Either a house electical problem or wiring in range. First go to your breaker and turn it off and on three times and give it a little extra push each time you flip it. ( You can actually flip a breaker off and on without resetting a blown breaker if you doni't push it all the way off and all the way on. If the breaker throws itself off do not reset it. You have an elecrical short in your house or range. If resetting the breaker does not work then you need to test for 240 volts coming into the range. We don't recommend you do any electical testing unless you know what you are doing with electicity. If you have 240 volts going to the range then unplug your range and remove the backing panel off the back of the range. Look for burned wiring or terminal blocks. If there is nothing obvious then you need to know how to read a wiring schematic and use a electical tester to go any farther. Let me know if this helps. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists

SOURCE: F1 code

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


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SOURCE: My amana gas range just

Hello,
One possibility is that the circuit breaker has weakened and tripping intermentently for no real reason. To see if that is the case the oven could be plugged into a outlet on a different breaker using a extension cord.
Another potential cause is that any one of the wires in the range has became bare and lost its insulation and touching a peice of metal, shorting out

Good luck in figuring out what is wrong,
Gene