Oven will not come on or heat

Hello & Welcome to FixYa
If the pilot is clean and still won't light then the problem is with the safety valve that won't open and so needs replacement. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.
Kevin

Make sure the thermocoupler is being heated by the pilot light flame. It could also be gunked up but you can clean it with a scouring pad, or it might need to be replaced. The thermocoupler is the most likely cause because if it isn't heated then the gas valve will not open up and no gas will flow to the burner. Since your pilot light is on then you do have gas to the valve.

Hello,


The problem beleive it or not is that the bake igniter is weak ,and it is not drawing the proper amprage to open the gas valve.If you have a amp meter access the wires to the bake igniter(usually behind the storage drawer) and check for 3.3-3.6 amps when oven is set to bake by clamping the meter around ONE wire wire of igniter make sure only one wire,either one and not both.
if amp draw less than 3.3-3.6 amps replace bake igniter. I know it seems improbable that if the igniter comes on that it could be the problem.Professional appliance technicians who would charge a average of $250.00 to repair your oven,have found when the igniter comes on yet the oven won't heat that a weak igniter is the cause 100% of the time
Gene...OldTech2332

Most likely culprit is the igniter.
When you turn the oven on it opens a gas valve allowing a small amount of gas to flow thru the pilot light. The igniter then lights the pilot and when the sensor determines the pilot is lit it opens th emain gas valve and the oven lights. If the igniter fails and doesn't light the pilot the sensor doesn't heat up and it shuts down the pilot and nothing works.
The igniter is usually accessable under the oven by removing the drawer. It has a single wire attached and looks like a short cigarette made of ceramic witha metal tip.
You didn't provide model number so I can't give you part number but if you look it up here you may be able to get one from Sears
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?sid=PSHx20080114x00001

If the glowbar is light up then you have a circuit and all components are working. So Houston why don't we have ignition? Today's new fangled ovens use silicone carbide ignition. The oven safety valve has a bi-metal inside it. In order for it to open and allow gas to flow the resistance in the circuit must change. As that glowbar heats up it changes the resistance in the circuit. If it can pull 3.5 amps or better then that bi-metal will open allow gas to hit the burner. That is yall's built in safety feature. If a glowbar looks real dim and takes a while to come on if at all then it is weak. Whirlpool also has another type of oven that uses a safety valve with a thermocouple attached to it. A pilot light is on all the time on these and no power is needed to operate this stove. Over time the thermocouples cooper-nickel tip will wear out and won't hold the oven safety valve open. Other variations of this is a standby pilot and electronic spark pilot and a flame switch added onto a safety valve. Newer models use a computer board along with AC power to fire the igniters and DC power to open the distribution valve. Your broiler is working so I am sure your stove ain't got the DSI ignition system and you have not mentioned anything about a pilot light so I am assuming you simply have a weak glowbar.
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replace the gas safety valve thermocouple,it has a thin coil of copper colored tubing going from the safety gas valve into the pilot light flame and as the flame heats the copper tube end it keeps the gas valve open to supply gas to the unit,they get old from being in a flame and cant signal the gas valve to stay open any longer,they just unscrew out of the gas valve and the opposite end is positioned in the tip of the pilot flame to heat it

Hello there: The oven bake burner and ignition components are located beneath the oven cavity. In most cases the oven bottom panel can be removed for access (check your owner's manual) but on some models the oven burner has to be accessed from below in the warming or broiler drawer area. If accessing from the top, a 'flame spreader' (flat metal plate) above the burner may also need to be removed to see the burner itself.Many ovens use a single oven burner in which case they only have a single gas valve and ignitor. The same burner is used for both bake and broil functions, the broil usually being in the drawer area below the oven. Higher-end models may have a separate bake and broil burner. On such a system there will be two ignitors, one for each burner. They may also employ a 'dual' gas valve (see illustration above) instead of using a separate valve for each burner.Some range models may have an additional broil burner located at the top of the oven cavity which may be referred to as a 'waist high' broil. If not, broiling usually takes place in the drawer area below the oven, which uses the same bake burner for the broil function. Most gas ranges currently available employ one of 3 basic gas ignition systems; pilot ignition, hot surface ignition system (which uses a 'glow bar' or 'glow coil' - aka an "ignitor") and a spark ignition system. The latter two being referred to as "electronic ignition" systems as they use electricity in one form or another to operate the oven heating system. Only the pilot ignition system has an actual "pilot" (which is a small but real "flame") which might need manual lighting.
If the surface burners of a range are a spark ignition type, the oven IS one of the possible kinds of electronic ignition systems and thus will not usually have a "pilot" which needs lighting. Be aware though that just because the surface burners might light via a spark doesn't necessarily mean the oven uses the spark type ignition system too.
There is one older style of electronic ignition system which does also use an oven pilot but it is very rare and such a system hasn't been used in oven models since the early to mid 70's. It is the 'constant pilot' *electronic ignition* system.


Making Observations
The oven burner's operation will usually need to be directly observed while in operation as the first step to troubleshooting problems.Ignition System Type Links
Ignition System Types:

Pilot Ignition

Electronic Ignition with Constant Pilot (rare)

Electronic Ignition with Glow Ignitor (most common)

Spark Ignition System

Is there continuity between the oven gas valve's terminals?


Hot Surface ('Glow Bar') Ignition System (most common)
This is the most popular system currently used for ovens and is comprised of a control mechanism (whether thermostat or electronic control), the oven ignitor and an oven gas valve.


What happens in this style ignition system is that the thermostat or electronic control switches power to the oven ignitor and gas valve circuit which are connected in series (one after the other). As power flows through the ignitor it heats and draws current (measured in amperage). Once the oven ignitor draws a specific amount of current the oven valve opens to allow gas to flow to the oven burner where the glowing hot ignitor (glow bar) ignites it. Power must continually flow through the ignitor and oven gas valve for gas to be released into the oven burner to create a flame.

It should usually only take in the area of 30-90 seconds for the oven ignitor to reach the proper resistance to allow the proper amperage to reach the gas valve to open it and for the ignitor to ignite the gas at the oven burner.

Hi

If it won’t fire then it is possible that the oven control is not sending gas for the pilot light. The pilot light works but no main burner ignition - possible pilot assembly is dirty and the pilot flame is too small, safety valve and thermocouple is faulty, the bulb from the safety valve is out of position and the pilot flame is not touching the thermocouple bulb. Some ranges use a standing pilot light ( small flame is on all the time ) while others use an spark ignition to light the pilot light flame and the pilot light flame heats up the thermocouple bulb to allow the main gas to flow through the oven burner.
The flame needs to heat the bulb up enough to tell it to open the gas valve. Several things can go wrong here that keep this from happening:
The pilot flame may not be hot enough, usually because the flame is yellow instead of pure blue or is too small. The cause for this is usually a dirty pilot assembly. The pilot assembly would either need to be cleaned or replaced.
The thermocouple bulb may not be positioned properly in the flame. You can't heat the bulb properly if it's not in the pilot flame! The thermocouple bulb needs to be in the upper third of a pure blue pilot flame--that's the hottest part of the flame.
The thermocouple itself may be burned out. It happens. It's an internal part of the gas valve so, no, you can't just change the thermocouple bulb separate from the gas valve.
But when you turn on the oven or the thermostat calls for heat, the pilot flame gets bigger and jumps down so it can heat up the thermocouple bulb. This extra gas to increase the pilot flame size comes from the thermostat.
If the pilot flame jumps upwards or just gets bigger, but doesn't shoot down, then you need to replace the pilot assembly.
If the pilot flame size does not increase or jump down when turning on the oven thermostat, then the problem is the thermostat not sending enough gas to the pilot assembly. It's also possible that the pilot gas supply tube has a hole in it somewhere.
One final point on the spark-assisted pilot ignition systems. The spark comes from the spark module--the same module that sends spark to your surface burners to light them up. If you're not getting a spark when you turn the oven on, then there are several possibilities:
There could be a problem with the switch in the thermostat. You can confirm this by doing a simple continuity test of the thermostat contacts. If you don't read zero ohms when you turn the switch on, replace the thermostat.
The spark module could be bad. You'll need to measure the voltage at the oven terminals of the spark module when you turn on the oven. If you get 120v but no spark, it's probably a bad spark module. Replace it.
Could be a bad spark wire or broken electrode.

Please do rate the solution and revert for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

Sounds as though the pilot light in your oven went out. On the inside of the oven there should be a small hole about the size of a 50cent piece on the floor of the oven. Turn on the gas for the oven, light a matchstick or rolled up piece of paper, stick it into that hole and it should light, monitor the oven for 30 seconds to see if it starts to heat. SAFETY 1st!

Most gas ranges currently available employ one of 3 basic gas ignition systems; pilot ignition, hot surface ignition system (which uses a 'glow bar' or 'glow coil' - aka an "ignitor") and a spark ignition system. The latter two being referred to as "electronic ignition" systems as they use electricity in one form or another to operate the oven heating system. Only the pilot ignition system has an actual "pilot" (which is a small but real "flame") which might need manual lighting.

If the surface burners of a range are a spark ignition type, the oven IS one of the possible kinds of electronic ignition systems and thus will not usually have a "pilot" which needs lighting. Be aware though that just because the surface burners might light via a spark doesn't necessarily mean the oven uses the spark type ignition system too.
There is one older style of electronic ignition system which does also use an oven pilot but it is very rare and such a system hasn't been used in oven models since the early to mid 70's. It is the 'constant pilot' *electronic ignition* system