Timberman 45 w/18 inch blade No owners manual Chain on in grooves and sprockets. Nuts tight Just a little loose. How do I Tighten chain?

hey Dominico,
This is the way PROFESSIONAL mechanics do a chain/sprocket check and drive chain alignment and tension.. Proper chain tension is very important to the life of your chain and sprockets and performance of your bike. First, you need to check to see if the chain/sprockets need replacing. (Chain and sprockets are ALWAYS replaced as a set (-all-3)..if you replace a chain on worn sprockets.. the chain will stretch out QUICK.. and if you put new sprockets with a worn chain.. the sprockets will be worn out QUICK too!!) ...To do this..the bike needs to be on the center stand or bike stand...NOT on the side stand...
...now...--remove the chain guard-- next..Sprocket check time - take one hand and squeeze the chain (grab the chain above and below the swingarm) at the point between the axle and the swingarm bolt.. as hard as possible. to take all the slack out of the chain and put the tension completely around the back sprocket.. while you are squeezing the chain as hard and tight as possible.. - with your other hand - try to lift/pull the chain off the rear sprocket.. IF you can pull the chain off enough to see if there is a .200" or 5mm max. gap between the chain and sprocket - under the chain... or MORE THAN A HALF a tooth groove under the chain..or the chain pulls up more than two teeth...OR the teeth on either sprocket are "pointed thin" or rounded inside....you need to replace the chain/sprockets.
...ONCE you are sure the chain/sprockets are good..its time to CORRECTLY align and adjust the chain tension. Loosen the axle nut.. DO NOT remove it.. now - tap it gently to make sure its loose...loose the chain adjuster nuts.. back them off a good bit, but do not remove them...you may,also need to loose the rear brake caliper mounts ..you should be able to move the rear wheel forward and backward with your hand.(this is to assure you have sufficient "looseness" to make the proper adjustment...NOW - pull the rear tire backwards until it stops.. - run the adjuster nut(s) until they are just snug..ALIGNMENT - This is CRITICAL - (did you remove the chain guard yet?) - do that now. You must be able to see down the entire length of the chain (above the swingarm)..The chain MUST RUN IN A STRAIGHT LINE!! .. The little marks on the swingarm are just "guides".. never use them as perfect.. the only way to assure CORRECT ALIGNMENT is a visual check of the chain to make sure its in a straight line!!!! - ...ANY bend, crook, or mis-alignment will cause premature wear and tear, and make it harder for your engine to make it turn. - Now - Rotate the wheel and find the tightest point of the chain... there is one, and its normal... LEAVE the tight point located between the two sprockets on the top of the swingarm. This is where you will "feel" for the correct tension.
The biggest thing most people miss when adjusting the tension is having the AXEL/NUT and the SWINGARM PIVOT SHAFT and the COUNTERSHAFT C/L (front sprocket shaft) IN A STRAIGHT LINE - ALL THREE ARE ON THE SAME PLANE!!!!!
. NOW, You may have to get a buddy to help pull the swing arm up.. (I use a tie down strap through the rear wheel and over the seat pulled tight enough to make AND KEEP the STRAIGHT LINE!!)
..Once you have established the straight line - --- - --- - and MADE SURE the chain is RUNNING STRAIGHT on both sprockets.. NOW _ its time to adjust the tension. There WILL be a tightest and loosest point of the chain..(normal).. you MUST adjust the tension using the TIGHTEST point of the chain....set the tension so you can move the chain up and down (total movement) about 1 3/8 inch to a max of 2 inches!! Once you have established the chain is straight and the tension is correct, its time to TIGHTEN EVERYTHING in order... start with snugging the axle nut.. then snug the adjuster nuts more..-- DOUBLE CHECK you chain alignment.. now - tighten the axle - TIGHT!!... tighten the adjuster nuts..lock down the lock nuts.. tighten the caliper.. TRIPLE CHECK the alignment... double check the tension...double check all the nuts... install the chain guard... REMOVE whatever you use the keep the straight line straight..

TRIPLE CHECK ALL NUTS!!! NOW ROTATE THE REAR WHEEL AND CHECK FOR BINDING AND MAKE SURE THE CHAIN IS WORKING CORRECTLY AND NOT TOO LOOSE..
KNOW you have done a job correctly!! (I am a factory trained mechanic, race engine builder, port work guy, race tuner.)..
GREAT JOB!!

Loosen and remove bar lock nuts and cover. screw tensioning screw to loosest point. wrap chain onto teeth of drive sprocket, then within grooves on bar. Be certain cutting edges are facing forward. Look at chain before removing. set bar with new chain to ensure the tension pin aligns with bar tensioning hole. Replace cover set nuts loosely. Tighten chain to about 1/4" out of groove when pulled on (wear gloves). Tighten nuts, spin chain to see it moves freely but does not hang free og bar groove. re-tension as necessary. Happy cutting!

its probably like the gas model. so you remove the 2 nuts holding on the side cover of the blade side, remove the cover and the blade and chain. To fit back, slacken the adjuster screw a little bit, or if fitting a new chain then a fair amount, as you have to be careful that the pin on the adjuster fits into the proper hole on the saw bar, as you fit back on the bar, of which you have already cleaned out the grooves. supporting the bar in the slackest position, fit on the chain, making sure that the cutting edge at the bottom is coming towards the motor. Then slide the bar and chain away from the motor to take up the slack, then fit back the metal guide in the original position, fit cover with the adjuster pin in its hole on the bar, and replace the 2 nuts almost tight but slack enough to use the adjuster to set the chain to cutting position..slightly sagging on the sprocket nose type, or snug on the solid nose type..then tighten the cover 2 nuts firmly but not excessively as that will damage the machine..NB the bar & chain depends on the adjuster, not on the nuts tightness to maintain tension

You need to tighten the chain. Loosen the nuts that hold the blade on just a little, then look on the inside of the blade. You will see a screw to tighten the blade. The chain should not be tight. There should be a little space between the chain and the bar. You should not be able to see the guide teeth of the chain. Just about 1/32 of an inch. When you tighten the blade back up, if you had it too lose, it will tighten the chain back to, too tight.

Pick up on chain and tighten until the teeth that run in bar groove are half way in the groove, to tighten loosen bar nuts on side of saw. There will be a screw either on bottom of saw on bar side or between bar and dawg( three or four pointed thing you see next to bar). Tighten screw as you turn the chain until when you pick up on chain it will raise the teeth that go in the bar groove to about half way. Do not over tighten or will burn up the bar, better a little loose than to tight. Don't forget to re-tighten bar nuts.

Turn the saw off. Look for several nuts on the right side of the saw that hold the cover on and the blade to the saw. Loosen these nuts, and before taking the cover off, loosen the chain adjuster by turning it (usually a screw head on the same side, or on the front of the saw as you look down the blade towards the saw.) Loosening the chain adjuster moves a pin that goes into the bar (the part the chain rides around when operating) to push it away from the saw to tighten the chain when you are tightening it. Take the cover off, and put the chain around the sprocket at the back like a bicycle chain, and then while holding the bar (sometimes a partner helps) parallel to the saw and outward away from the front of the saw, align the bottom parts of the chain inside the bar guide slot all around the bar, holding just enough tension that it doesn't fall off the sprocket or get misaligned in the bar guide. Try moving the chain a little bit to make sure it is not binding on anything. If it doesn't move at all, make sure the chain brake is not on. Once it is moving smoothly, put the cover back on, and begin to hand tighten the nuts. Just before they begin to get tight, eyeball where the chain tensioner pin is in relation to the hole it is supposed to go in. Adjust the chain tensioner screw to move the pin towards the hole. When it pops in the hole, continue tightening the nuts by hand until tight. Now you and your partner can let go of the bar. Adjust the chain tensioner for the proper tension in the chain, not too loose, not to tight, refere to your manual. Finish tightening the cover nuts using the universal wrench to the specifications given in the owners manual.

Check that the chain brake is in disengaged position by
moving the front hand guard towards the front handle.
Remove the bar nuts and remove the clutch cover (chain
brake). Take off the transportation ring.
Fit the bar over the bar bolts. Place the bar in its rearmost
position. Place the chain over the drive sprocket locate it in
the groove on the bar. Begin on the top edge of the bar.

Make sure that the edges of the cutting links are facing
forward on the top edge of the bar.
Fit the clutch cover (chain brake) and locate the chain
adjuster pin in the cut-out in the bar. Check that the drive
links of the chain fit correctly on the drive sprocket and that
the chain is in the groove on the bar. Tighten the bar nuts
finger-tight.
Tension the chain by turning the chain tensioning screw
clockwise using the combination spanner. The chain
should be tensioned until it does not sag from the
underside of the bar.
The chain is correctly tensioned when it does not sag from
the underside of the bar, but can still be turned easily by
hand. Hold up the bar tip and tighten the bar nuts with the
combination spanner.
When fitting a new chain, the chain tension has to be
checked frequently until the chain is run-in. Check the
chain tension regularly. A correctly tensioned chain
ensures good cutting performance and long life.

First, lay the saw on it's side with the blade facing up.
you should see an access panel at the base of the blade. Remove the screws and the panel. This should reveal two hat nuts and the chain drive sprocket. Loosen the two hat nuts, allowing you to slide the chain bar backwards and remove the old chain. Loop the new chain around the bar and drive sprocket, paying special attention to the direction of rotation of the chain. the cutting surface of the teeth should face the handle of the saw on the BOTTOM side of the blade. Pull forward on the bar and HAND-TIGHTEN the hat nuts. This will allow you to adjust the blade tension. Pull outward on the chain at the cnter of the bar. Slide the back and forth until you acheive about 1/4 inch gap between the chain and the bar. Once you are satisfied with the tension, tighten the hat nuts with a wrench and replace the cover and screws. Just pay close attention to the tension of the chain. Too loose and it will skip off, too tight and will bog down the motor and overheat.

well first get the bike up on a stand or set it on a milk crate. Loosen up main axle nuts you may need another wrench on the other side to back it up. loosen any small chain adjustment nuts. pull the chain as far back as it can go all the time looking a the chain sag..you want to keep about 5/8 to 1 inch play...lock just the axle nuts down snug...now spin the tire to see that all parts of the chain maintain this amount of sag. if its too tight in one area, you have a "stretched chain", and this will now be the focal point for tightening up the chain...this tighter part must have "some" slack in it...id say give it about 1/2 inch...now tighten up the chain adjustment nuts finger tight and look at your rear sprocket and make sure it lines up perfectly straight on with the counter shaft sprocket up front. Once this is aligned, tighten the smaller nuts snug, then proceed to torque down lightly maybe 10- 20 ftlbs. now spin the tire to check your slack in the chain did it move on you? Then you have to tighten or loosen the chain adjustment nuts a little more in or out till you get it right so it can move into the correct position. Once you got it right torque down on the main axle nuts 50-60ft lbs. Now tighten evenly each chain nut with the same ammount of turns to each....tighten the last nut down hard onto the first so they wont vibrate off. Now you should lube the chain..and your ready to go. after a while of hard riding recheck everything just to make sure shes secure! Can i get a very helpful on this. thanks!

loosen the two nuts that hold the chain cover on. Once they are just loose, then use a flat blade screw driver to turn the slot that you see right next to the base of the chain. Once the chain is tight, retighten the two nuts.