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Incorrect rms output. This Rockford amp series is widely known to be 30-40% underrated. Correct numbers are as follows: 112w p/ch. @ 2ohms. & 225w×1 ch bridged. (225 × 1.40 = 315w rms total.
You can't go wrong with Rockford, in my opinion. Everything they make is well built and high quality. I personally have two Rockford p500-1bd amps hooked up to four 12 inch subs in my car and those amps make those subs slam. I have them wired down to 1 ohm and the specs say that they should be pushing 500 rms a piece at 1 ohm so that p700-1bd amp really packs a punch. Depending on what you're hooking up to that amp I would defenitely recommend it to you. - Ryan in Alaska
If the 1,000 watts is RMS, I'd recommend an amp in the 750-1,000 watt RMS range, perhaps like the Alpine MRP-M1000 or Rockford-Fosgate T1000bd. If the 1,000 watts is peak power, the subs continuous (RMS) power handling is much lower, probably 300-400 watts. In that case, I'd recommend the Alpine MRP-M500 or Rockford-Fosgate T500-1bd.
The old Rockford-Fosgate was probably producing the rated power. The Sony is most likely overrated. But, it's supposed to be stable on each individual channel down to 2 ohms and will deliver 65 watts RMS into that load. So to get the most from it, your best bet would be a pair of 4 ohm speakers paralleled to each channel. A relatively efficient speaker like the Kicker 07DS600's shown here should provide pretty good sound.
These will work with as little as 6 watts RMS and can handle up to 50 watts RMS so the Sony should power them really well. They're 4 ohm so a pair in parallel will present a 2 ohm load.
wired remote included for fingertip control of Punch Bass (0-18 dB boost at 45 Hz)
MOSFET power supply and output devices
MEHSA mounting technology increases the heat transfer from the MOSFET output devices to the heat sink, for higher power output, lower operating temperatures, and greater reliability
TOPAZ — noise-killing differential inputs that eliminate 80% of ground loop noise
Trans•ana circuitry keeps preamp voltages low and signal paths simple for outstanding audio quality
NOMAD — advanced protection circuitry for "intelligent" shutdown protection
speaker- and preamp-level inputs
11-1/8"W x 2-3/8"H x 9-7/8"D
Wire your sub in bridged mode (4 ohm mono)
+ to + on amplifier
- to - on amplifier
(using bridging terminals)
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your Volfenhag 12" subs are rated at 1200 watts they are only 600 watts rms and the Rockford punch p4004 is only 200 watts rms so the answer is yes it will work but if you get a amplifier that pushes out 500 - 600 watts rms you will love the sound from subs
there is nothing wrong with the Rockford amp it just wont pound out the bass as hard but the good news is you will never blow the subs with it
when buying amps or subs make sure to look at rms rating that is the true power they actually have ie. (sub box says 1200 watt you think powerful but if you divide it in 1/2 you actually get 600 watts rms) don't get me wrong that's a nice rating. for a sub but you will want to match that number with the amps rms rating or lower. The RMS is what makes the car pound the higher the RMS the better
hope this helps
if your sub will handle it, bridging it will give you more power. The best thing to do is to find out how much power the amp puts out ( RMS ) and if it is in your power handling range bridge it. It sounds better and gives you a harder punch because of more power.
The efficiency of an amplifier has nothing to do with the RMS rating of the amplifier. It is true that no amplifiers are 100% efficient. The efficiency of the amplifier is calculated by how much power output it has compared to how much power it actually uses to create that output power. The RMS rating is just a measurement of the output power with no consideration of the amount of power that is needed to create that output power. Most of the high-end amplifiers are properly rated. If you see power ratings that refer to peak power, it is a little misleading. The true power of an amplifier is the RMS rating. It stands for "root means squared" but is the effective power that you hear, often referred to as the true power. It is calculated by taking the peak power and multiplying it by .707, which is always less than the peak power. When the rating of an amplifier is calculated they use a sine wave at a single frequency and it has a positive peak and a negative peak. If the power is calculated using both peaks it is called the "peak to peak" power rating. When it is calculated using only one peak it is called the "peak" power rating.
The big "con" in all of this happens when manufacturers use the "peak" power ratings instead of the "RMS" power ratings because it makes people think that the amplifier has more power when it really doesn't. Most people have no idea there is a difference in the "peak" power or the "RMS" power. It is a deceptive way of making people think that they are getting a more powerful amplifier. But none of this is related to the efficiency of the amplifier. It is theoretically impossible to make anything electronic that is 100% efficient. It always takes more power on the input than it does for the output power of anything.
I hope this answered your question, if you have any other questions feel free to ask them just by posting a response on this thread, and remember, you get what you pay for. The best amplifiers cost more for one reason, they are better. I am a big fan of Phoenix Gold amplifiers.
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