Husqvarna Craftsman 36cc, 16 In. Gas Chain Saw Logo
Posted on Apr 04, 2010
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Not geting the bar oil to the bar. clogged somehow.so chain get very dry and won't cut very well.

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Anonymous

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  • Master 2,220 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 04, 2010
Anonymous
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How about a model and serial number (post below)? I want to look at the exploded parts lst and need your help. Lou

  • Anonymous Apr 04, 2010

    It is late. Sorry I meant to make this a CR. No matter if you reply.

  • Anonymous Apr 07, 2010

    Oil System Plugged:


        Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar), if equipped with a sprocket nose ensure it rotates easily at least one complete revolution. Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up (oozes down side of saw). If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.

        Work your way through the linkage (use IPL to identify components and locations) cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.

    If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear (see IPL).

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I have a homelite cs50 and the oil will not lube the blade what can be the problem

If it the oil is being pumped out at the bar mount then the bar is probably clogged and it is needing cleaning. As cutting crooked the can be problem with the way the chain is sharpen or not sharpen. Don't forget check those depth gauges too. Also depending old the bar the rails may be worn one sided.
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I dont know why the chain won't get oiled? everything runs fine. full of oil. but chain gets dry and burns. Why?

clean your bar out with a feeler gauge and go all the way around it and clean the 2 oil holes in it too. start the saw with bar off and run it momentarly to see if oil is coming out the oil hole, if not replace you oiler
Sep 16, 2011 • Garden
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No oil lubrication at chain or bar.

There are a couple of things to check. There is a small hose that runs from the bar oil tank to the bar. This may be clogged or cracked so that no oil is getting to the bar. I would also check the "O" ring on the bar oil tank. Of this is bad the tank can't pressurize and the oil won't flow to the bar. You may also want to check and see if all the little hoses to and from the bar oil tank are in good shape and connected.
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Chain adjustment seems too have some type of problem; it keeps leting the chain come loose or off. ever couple of cuts

The chain adjuster does not actually hold the guide bar, that is done by the bar nut/nuts, the main reason for chains coming lose is inadiquate chain oil to the bar/chain, does the chain look dry? it can also be the result of what you are cutting, if it is very dirty timber or railway sleepers.
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Chainsaw starts ok. When I try to cut it will stop half way. When I hit throttle it the chain will move and then it slows down and stops. Any sugestions?

Make sure the bar and chain is being properly lubricated by running the saw at speed with the tip near some cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil after a moment or two. If dry, remove the bar and chain (make sure the chain brake is set to off), and clean the engine area where the bar fits to it. Start the engine--oil should ooze out of the small port in the engine side. If ok, clean the small oil passages that run from the large holes (in the drive end of the bar) out to the chain groove on the bar edge. Wash out the interior of the clutch hub with spray carburetor cleaner to remove excess oil. Reassemble the bar/chain and adjust the chain until it just comes up to the lower bar, but not so tight that you can't turn the chain easily by hand. Make sure the chain is filed sharp enough to cut your fingers if not careful. Hope this helps!
Nov 11, 2010 • Garden
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Can't seem to get my oiler to work properly. oil emerges when i run the saw with the bar removed, but chain is dry and hot when run put together.

Some saw manufactures design their oilers to only work with their bars. Are you running the mfg suggested or stock bar? Chain? Stihl Chain is designed to use 30% less oil because of oil groves cut into each drive link directed to the rivets. So if your running an aftermarket bar/chain, the oiling ports may not line up. Especially if it oils with no bar & chain
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No oil geting to the chain

Youre oiler may be bad. Does it oil without the bar and chain? Is there oil in it? Maybe the pickup tube is clogged, it's easy to take apart to see.
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Chain slips

Your problem statement seems to be chopped off, but apparently, when you go to cut something, the chain just stops turning. Assuming that is so, remove the bar and chain, then wash out the interior of the clutch mechanism with spray carburetor cleaner. Let dry and re-assemble the bar and chain. Make sure the chain is being properly oiled by running the saw at speed with bar tip near some cardboard--it should leave thin line of oil after several moments. Make sure the chain teeth cut toward you on the bottom run of chain. Hope this helps!
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Chain won't rotate

Assuming that you have a fueled engine saw instead of an electric type, remove the drive cover after releasing the chain brake and backing off CCW the chain adjuster screw. Remove the bar/chain and clean the assortment of parts including the small oil passages that are in the drive end of the bar. Wash out the interior of the clutch assembly with spray carburetor cleaner and let dry. Start the engine without the bar/chain and watch for oil oozing out of a small port in the side of the engine case. If nothing, check the oil pump, lines, and valve/filter within the oil tank. If ok, re-assemble the bar, then the chain over the sprocket and out over the bar. Extend the bar out to tighten the chain, and fit the cover to the saw. Tighten the fasteners finger tight, then adjust the chain up to the lower bar edge (the teeth cut toward you on the bottom run) but not so tight that you can't turn the chain by hand. Tighten the fasteners and recheck chain tension. Check chain oiling by running the bar tip at speed near a piece of cardboard for a few moments--it should throw off a thin line of oil onto the board. Hope this helps!
Jun 26, 2010 • Garden
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I bought a used McCulloch 4016. The engine can rev up nicely, but it cannot cut through 2 inch piece of wood. It does not stall, the chain just stops moving, and the engine seems to slow down as if it...

A dull chain can certainly cause loss of cutting ability and generate a lot of heat in the chain. The clutch may be full of chain oil and is slipping. Remove the bar and chain, then wash out the clutch internals with spray carburetor cleaner and let dry out. Clean the oil passages in the drive end of the bar including the two small passages that go out from the large holes to the chain groove an each side. Clean the entire chain groove. Start the engine with the bar and chain off of the saw--you should see oil ooze out of the small port in the engine case where the bar fits to. Reassemble the bar and chain after everything is cleaned--tighten the chain until the lower run just pulls up to the bar, but you can still run the chain by hand. Make sure the chain teeth are properly file sharpened and the teeth cut toward you on the bottom run. When running, the engine should 4-stroke at speed unloaded, but immediately 2-stroke when cutting. Hold the bar tip near some cardboard while running the engine at speed for several moments--it should throw off a thin line of oil on to the cardboard. Hope this helps!
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