Dual voice coil wiring to class d amp

I would use 10 to 12 gauge wiring. As fare as your amp's fuse...Check to make sure you are using the correct amp fuse. Make sure your subs are wired to a ohm load your amp is stable with. Check your ground and positive connections. Check and make sure your amp's gain settings are correctly set. Your amp's gain should not be turned all the way up.

Is your sub single or dual voice coil. This will also make a difference in choosing amps. Pretty much any amp that will supply your required power will do. But, if you have a single voice coil sub, you will be wanting to look for RMS power at 4 ohms. If you have a dual 4 ohm voice coil sub, you can wire it to a 2 ohm load. Then you will need to search for amps that supply the RMS requirements of the sub at 2 ohms. The choices are almost endless. I am an RE Audio dealer, so I absolutely know that they will do you well. Hope this helps.

if you have a 2 channel amp, just wire each coil to each channel....If its a mono amp or you are bridging amp, hook up one channel like usual (+ and -) then use a jumper wire from the positive to the other positive on the speaker and do the same for the negative....

No the LOWER the resistance the MORE Output or Draw, If say it is 100 Watts into 4 Ohms, if you used a 2 ohm speaker it would draw 200 watts.(only if capable of delivering that amount of power) The LOWER the Resistance, the HIGHER the Current Draw. WATTS = AMPS x VOLTS. (This is not strictly true with amplifiers output though, as it is an AC Current, and a "Reactive" load, it has, Inductance, Capacitance and Resistance, all in one.and is worked out via a Formula) see below. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audio_power

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_1_1/v1n1spk.html

Now with Dual Voice Coils, Essentially, you can think of these speakers as TWO speakers in ONE enclosure. As such, They are basically TWO Speakers. Please see the website below it explains everything for you. http://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/FAQ/Wiring/
Everything is a function of Resistance and Ohms law.
Current (I) = Voltage (E) divided by Resistance(R).
Voltage = Current Multiplied by Resistance.
Resistance = Voltage divides by Current.

try wiring them differently. here is a link for u to go to http://www.crutchfield.com/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html . once there find your amp configuration (ie. mono, or 2 channel) then down to the type of subs an how many subs ( ie. 2 dvc (dual voice coil) 4 ohm subs) an that will show u how the subs should be wired and wired to the amp.

best way is to just run the volfenhag with a set of wires for 2 channells(one set per coil) left and right @ 4 ohms per channell. The CVRs you can parallel the coils(2 ohms) and run a set from each sub to the amp in stereo left and right. This will give the kickers a little more juice than the 12 but should be fine.

U HAVE TWO COILS ONE ONE EACH SIDE OF THE WOOFER, ALL U DO IS HOOK UP ONE COIL TO THE OTHER, THEM HOOK THEM UP TO THE TERMINALS IN THE BOX.

I have 2 of these 12" running in a Large slot ported box with an:
"Ultra Linear UL2402"
600RMS X 2 @ 4Ohm (Stereo) 1200RMS X 2 @ 2Ohm (Stereo) 2400RMS X 1 @ 2Ohm (Mono)
Can be run in Tri-mode with 3 8Ohm subs, which these subs are. I have not tried this mode. This is
600RMS X 2 @ 4Ohm = Max RMS of your subs. You should run the max of your subs, less wear on the amp you are using , and i doubt you will ever need to turn it up far before it blows out your trunk or window :P
1200RMS X 2 @ 2Ohm = Blown Subs!
Has 4 x 25amp fuses, most will tell you this only has an RMS of around 845, an "ultra linear circuit" produces twice the output power over Modern amps.
Can had on Ebay for around $100. I bought mine for $101.
This Amp pounds, i could quickly tell a difference going from 300RMS X 2 @ 4Ohm with a Kenwood amp. I Had to turn all my settings down on the new amp to have a better balance in sound.

Mamola,

Get an amp with at least 200 Watts RMS. The RMS value is what is important about driving Subs. This could be proclaimed to be a 1000 Watt amp. REad the RMS value.

Wiring. It is better to series your Speakers to give them and your amp more reliability,

Get a Mono or Bridgeable amp. If it si bridgeable, BRidge the output as described in the manual you get. Some Amps have a diagram right on the output..

AMP+ to Sub1 +
Sub1 - to Sub2 +
Sub2 - to Amp -

Get a 4 Guage wring kit. Run your power wiring down the Drivers side, and Audio signal wiring down the Passenger side, keep the two separate.

well at this point i would say it is both,, the subs fried because your amplifier passed dc [direct current] and fried the voice coils on your subs....return them if they are under warranty,, the amplifier sound like you either operated it beyound its specifications or it has a defective output stage allowing it to pass or leak dc....it turned the voice coils into the equivelent of the runners in a toaster oven....when an amp passes dc it is going to do so to whatever speakers you hook to it....so either bring it to a shop to be fixed/ return it to place purchase for exchange or throw it away.....or you will continue to experience the same problems....I am sorry..ps the amp goes into protection when it detects a short...[ the short is produced by the amp and it is detecting its own fault and putting it in to protection after it BURNS up your drivers....