My refrigerator works on gas but not on ac. I have power right to the heating element. Could it be anything other than a bad element?

Sounds like your selector knob may net be making proper contact with electricity. You have changed everything else. You could check power available with a multimeter to your element. If power not available to your element, back trace to source and check for burned wires or breaks in wiring.
Hope this helps!

If it is working on LP but not on AC then I would start by checking the power at the outlet behind the refrigerator. If you have power there then using a multi meter check the power into the circuit board and also power out of the board to the heating elements. If you do not have power coming out of the board then the board is bad and needs to be replaced. Next, check the heating elements which are located in the heat riser tube to the right of the refrigerator (looking at it from the back side). Disconnect the heating element from the circuit board and using a digital multi meter check the ohms. You should get a reading of approximately 44ohms +/- 10%. If you are out of range then you have a bad heating element. Be careful when removing the heating element as they have a bad tendency of welding themselves to the cooling unit and if your force it loose you could damage the cooling unit. If the element is not moving at all then there is a secondary tube next to the heating element that you can install another element into.

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly
Operators manual:
http://www.gas-refrigerators.com/pdf/RM2193-manual.pdf
Parts manual:
http://www.scamptrailers.com/Portals/0/Dometic_Refrig_RM2193_PartsList.pdf
If you look at the last page of the parts list (page 10) it is showing a thermostat across the Black and white wires.
There is not a fuse that I can see. The fuse has to be external to the unit. You should be able to read continuity (resistance) of the AC heating element at the power cord with the AC switch ON.
AC Power source must be removed to perform resistance checks.

No continuity there are 2 possibile failures (Other than wiring)
1. AC heating element
2. Thermostat.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

just had same thing happen to mine. replace control board. starting working on gas. one the ac I then replaced the ac heating element and now working great on ac

If it works on gas and NOT electricity then the heating element is not getting power or the heating element is open. The heating element is located on the tubing just aft of where the pilot flame is on the bottom of the copper tube. You should check for power to the heating element and with power off perfom a continuity check on the element. I really do not at this time think you have a heating element problem.

There is a 120VAV element a AND a 12VDC element. The chances of both of these failing at the same time is pretty slim.

There is a note in the manual:
If the gas only pushbutton is depressed the
lamp will illuminate green and the refrigerator
will only operate on the LP gas mode, even if q
120 or 12 volts are available.

Another significant change in the third
generation A.E.S. system is how the 12 volt
heating element mode operates. As with the
first and second generation series, the 12 volt
heating element circuit is energized by the
ignition lock terminal. This terminal receives
its DC voltage from a wire that runs from the
run side of the vehicle’s ignition switch to the
refrigerator’s ignition lock terminal. This
allows the 12 volt heating element to be
energized only when the RV is traveling down
the road.
When the ignition lock terminal is energized
by the ignition key, the printed circuit board
must see at least 13.3 volts DC for a period of
40 seconds before the system will activate the
12 volt DC heating element.
If 13.3 volts is not achieved in this time frame,
the electronics will light the LP gas burner and
the refrigerator will operate on the LP gas
mode.
LOWER THAN 13.3 V.D.C. =LP Operation

If the battery voltage remains low after the
delay cycle, the automatic controls will light
the refrigerator on the LP gas mode and stay
on the gas mode until the printed circuit board
sees approximately 13.3 volts DC to the
terminal block.

For proper cooling on the AC mode, the AC
voltage to the refrigerator should not vary
more than 10 percent from the voltage rating
on the heating element. Heating elements used
in Dometic refrigerators could have a rated
voltage of 110 volts, 115 volts or 120 volts AC.
Because of this, the power requirements for
each differently rated heating element will
vary. For example, if a heating element is
rated for 100 volts, the acceptable power range
would be between 99 to 121 volts AC. If an
element is rated for 115 volts, the acceptable
power range would be between 103.5 to 126.5
volts AC. If the heater is rated for 120 volts,
the acceptable AC power range would be
between 108 to 132 volts AC.

The unit to operate on either AC or DC must have 13.3 volts to the unit. I think this is where your problem lies in that the battery voltage is less than 13.3 VDC


If all of that checks good just repsond here and I will help you. There is still more that can be checked.

Thanks for choosing FixYa.

Kelly

Your heater should measure 44 ohms, give or take 10%.

95 Ohms is way off. The RM2310 uses a 92 ohm heating element, perhaps you installed / were sold the wrong heating element?

Need to R&R the A/C heating element. Costs about $20.00

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Unplug the fridge. Remove the cover from the circuit board, unplug the 2 wires going to the heat element and do an Ohms reading should be 35-45 Ohms. If the Ohms is good then you need a circuit board as long as you have checked the 110 volt fuse on the circuit board.
Thanks for using Fixya
Jerry