Hello there:
Water-heating cycle
Many dishwashers heat the wash and/or rinse water
to a higher temperature, as the cycle calls for it. In these cycles, the
dishwasher pauses after it has filled with water, waiting for the water
to reach the pre-set temperature. What happens next, depends, as
follows:
On some units, the pause is timed and the unit
continues after the allotted time.
On others, the cycle can't continue until the water
reaches the higher temperature. If you have this type of dishwasher and
the water isn't being heated (say, because of a problem with the heating
element or thermostat), after the unit stops at the heating cycle, it
never continues. When you repair the heating-system problem, the "cycle
problem" is fixed too.
Timer
Timers don't often fail. But if every other part
of the dishwasher seems to be working properly and the timer knob seems
to be stuck in one place--doing one function continuously--the timer may
be at fault. Dishwasher timers can't be repaired. If yours is
defective, replace it.
Hi. i would test the element first. this will be the likely issue.
First, open the door and look into the tub and locate the heating element (if it is covered, remove the lower dish rack and cover). The heating element has two terminals which extend through the bottom of the tub, note the general location where they go through.
To access the heating element's wiring, remove the lower panel located beneath the door. The panel is usually held in place with two screws either above or below the panel. It may be necessary to first open the door to the dishwasher to reach the screws over the panel, then close the door to remove the panel.
Look into the lower access area and locate where the terminals come through the tub. Each terminal has a wire connected to it. Label the wires and the terminals so that they can be properly reconnected. Pull the wire off of each terminal; they are connected with a slip on connector. Firmly pull the connector, do not pull on the wire. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers. Inspect the connector and terminal for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced. Test the resistance of the heating element using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading will be somewhere between infinity and zero. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and model. If the indicator does not move (infinite resistance) or moves to the other extreme of the scale (zero resistance) then the element is damaged and should be replaced.
Additionally, If your unit is equipped with a drying fan, and it is failing to operate, this will be an issue as well. I would inspect the fan, (IF EQUIPPED), for damage.
To access the drying fan, remove the lower panel located beneath the door. The panel is usually held in place with two screws either above or below the panel. It may be necessary to first open the door to the dishwasher to reach the screws over the panel, then close the door to remove the panel.
Note the location of the fan hood inside the dishwasher's tub (usually back right or left) and you will find the dryer fan beneath it in the access area. The fan motor has two wires connected to it. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals. You may need to use a pair of small pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.
Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of zero. If the fan fails this test, it should be replaced.
Wow, the drying fan was just another possible issue that may cause your symptoms sir. I'm sure you saw the words "IF EQUIPPED" in my solution.
We are required to list all symptoms if you don't include your identification model number in your POST!!!
My solution is CORRECT!!
Good Day:)
50 arp is not a full model number. Due to this , i had to list all possible issues.
The principal issue will eb the element. I CLEARLY stated to only test the fan "IF EQUIPPED"
DID YOU READ THAT??
"TRIGGER"???
WOW
Have a great day sir:-)
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THERE IS NO DRYING FAN! ARE WE TALKING ABOUT THE SAME APPLIANCE? WOULD LIKE ANOTHER OPINION,
PLEASE!!
GO EASY TRIGGER, I ONLY SAID THERE WAS NO FAN!! THE CORRECT MOD # IS 50APR
THAT IS ON THE INFO PLATE, SER. # 1345 THANK YOU
THERE SEEMS TO BE A MIXUP ON THE MODEL # IT IS--- 50APR, SER.# 1345. REALIZE IT IS AN OLDER MODEL, BUT HAS BEEN WORKING WELL. WOULD LIKE TO GET PARTS LIST OR SCHEMATIC FOR IT!!
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