Maytag pav2300 wont stop filling up. New timer

Make sure your drain hose to the drain pipe is higher than the water in the tub if not it will keep running and going out the drain.
Also try taking the hose off the level switch and blow in it to be sure it's not stoped up. If is it won't let the level sw cut off. air should go through it. Good luck
When you unpluged the power and it ddn't keep runing the water valve should be ok.

Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly

There is a water level pressure switch inside the top panel that has 3 wires on it and a vacuum line. That pressure switch controls the water inlet valve functions via the timer.
If by chance the pressure sensing line is getting hydraulically locked with water due to some form of obstruction it can cause the symptom you describe.

This pressure switch also controls the start of the spin once the water level has dropped (prevents the wash tub from being a water brake and damaging the motor clutch)

If the water level pressure switch is working normally then the only thing left is the timer.

You can do your own testing of the water level presure switch with an external vacuum hose (3 feet in length) connected in place of the machine hose. (DO NOT drop the machine hose when you disconnect it!)

1. place timer on wash and start filling. LID CLOSED
a. Force air orally into the external line
1) Result fill stops agitation begins

2. place timer in spin LID CLOSED and force air into external line until the pressure switch clicks.
a. START SPIN CYCLE NOW and listen for water pump out
b. release pressure on external air line
1) result tub starts spinning

If it passes the above tests your looking at a timer problem causing your no rinse situation.

Thanks for using FixYa!

Kelly

Check for a faulty water level switch. It's a diaphragm-like device with a small plastic tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level increases, so does the pressure on the air in the tube and when it reaches a certain level, it activates the switch to shut off the water and signals the timer to start the appropriate cycle. Check for any obstructions in or damage to the plastic tube. The switch can be tested using a multimeter or ohmmeter. Check for continuity. A lack of continuity means a bad switch. Sorry for your trouble and I hope this helped. Best wishes.

You may need a new fill switch.Or you can try to remove the small hose from the outer tube to the water level switch and clean it.That is a short cut that may work but i would go with a new water level control switch hope i helped:)

It sound like you have a bad float switch and it is not reading the water level right.If it is filling and wont stop then a possible new water valve is in order:) The float switch is locatted under the top panel of washer

Water level controls - The water level control is also know as a pressure switch, this is where you set the water level ( small - medium - large ). The water level control is responsible to shut off the power to the fill valve and direct that power to the timer so the washing machine can start up. The WLC has electrical contacts in it that sends power to the fill valve and when the WLC is satisfied the water level is correct the electrical contacts open power to the fill valve and send the power to the timer and the washer starts. Picture of this here. How the water level control knows when it is time to shut the water off is, a air tight hose runs from the outer washer tank to the water level control. As the water fills the outer tank air is pushed up the hose, depending on which setting you have made ( small- medium - large ) is takes a certain amount of this pressure to make the WLC cycle over and shut off the water and send this power to the timer. If this hose develops a leak or a pin hole the washer can over fill as the WLC may not be able to shut the water off. The water level control can also break down and allow the washer to over fill as well.
Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter.
A couple of tips from readers (Thankx!! ):
~ If you have a loose hose on the water level control or tank end, use a plastic wire tie to help hold the hose tighter and make a tight fit.
~ The water level tube (tube that runs from the square box), access panel on the outer drum where the bleach tube also ends) from the pressure sensor switch (front panel) can become clogged.  Or the two holes from the outer tub into this square box panel on the outside of the outer tub can become clogged. Either clog, I am told by my help repair guy can cause the sensor to think that there is still too much water in the tub and so will not allow motor to activate spin.
~ If the water level control contact is bad, it may also stop the filling ok, but not tell the washer to start agitating.


Maytag Dependable care washer.....Locate a 1/4 inch screw on the side of the agitator, ( about 3/4 of the way down) remove this screw and lift up on the agitator...picture.
 
Maytag Atlantis, Norge, Performa by Maytag.....Remove the cap and softener dispenser by pulling it off and locate the agitator bolt, remove bolt and lift up on the agitator...picture.

 

Washer Basics: Filling with water:
The water fill valve - The water fill valve is a mechanical and electrical part, the coils on the valve need electricity to mechanically open the valve to allow the water to flow into the washer....myth....the washer pumps water into itself...no, it does not. The fill valve opens and the house water pressure pushes the water into the washing machine.
No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can test a fill valve live for 120 volts, power to a fill valve coil and no fill = a bad fill valve. You can also test the coils for continuity, no continuity = a bad fill valve. Some Maytag washers have a fuse in the fill valve circuit, if this fuse let go the washer will not fill. Fill valves can also from time to time stick open and not stop filling. If you have to shut off the fill valves to stop the water from filling in the washer, you have a bad fill valve and you will have to replace it.


Water level controls - The water level control is also know as a pressure switch, this is where you set the water level ( small - medium - large ). The water level control is responsible to shut off the power to the fill valve and direct that power to the timer so the washing machine can start up. The WLC has electrical contacts in it that sends power to the fill valve and when the WLC is satisfied the water level is correct the electrical contacts open power to the fill valve and send the power to the timer and the washer starts. Picture of this here. How the water level control knows when it is time to shut the water off is, a air tight hose runs from the outer washer tank to the water level control. As the water fills the outer tank air is pushed up the hose, depending on which setting you have made ( small- medium - large ) is takes a certain amount of this pressure to make the WLC cycle over and shut off the water and send this power to the timer. If this hose develops a leak or a pin hole the washer can over fill as the WLC may not be able to shut the water off. The water level control can also break down and allow the washer to over fill as well.
Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter.
A couple of tips from readers (Thankx!! ):
~ If you have a loose hose on the water level control or tank end, use a plastic wire tie to help hold the hose tighter and make a tight fit.
~ The water level tube (tube that runs from the square box), access panel on the outer drum where the bleach tube also ends) from the pressure sensor switch (front panel) can become clogged.  Or the two holes from the outer tub into this square box panel on the outside of the outer tub can become clogged. Either clog, I am told by my help repair guy can cause the sensor to think that there is still too much water in the tub and so will not allow motor to activate spin.
~ If the water level control contact is bad, it may also stop the filling ok, but not tell the washer to start agitating.

In yor machine control panel you have A part called a pressure switch or water level switch. that controls the water level and tells the timer to start aggitating .If the part is bad the machine will over fill and keep running the water!!

check the pressure line from the tub to the water level switch and make sure that it does not have a hole or crack in it if the hose is ok then the water level switch is bad

Check to make sure your drain hose has a loop at least as high as washer top.  If the drain hose is not looped higher than tub water will continue to drain and it won't stop filling.  If it doesn'y reach the correct fill level it won't agitate.