Why won't door latch lock?

try to spray like WD40 to release.

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Open Lever If the microwave door won't open the open lever might be broken. This part can be replaced separately.

Door Spring If the microwave door won't open the door spring may have broken. The door spring is located inside the door and keeps downward pressure on the door hook.

Door Latch If the microwave door won't open the door latch might be broken. The door latch is inside the microwave. The door hook, which is part of the door, engages with the latch to keep the door closed during operation. If the door latch or actuator breaks the door may not open.

Door Hook If the microwave door won't open the door hook might not be releasing properly. The door hook is installed inside the door and normally releases when the door is opened. The hook is made of plastic and will break over time. When this happens it will need to be replaced, it can't be repaired.

Button Spring If the microwave door won't open the button spring might be broken internally. The button spring can be replaced.
Button If the microwave door won't open the button might be broken internally. The button can be replaced.

Handle Actuator If the microwave door won't open the handle actuator might be broken. This is a plastic part which can become brittle over time. This part is connected between the door button and the door latch assembly.

I have had this issue twice on my '98 Pathfinder. The hinge inside the exterior door latch rusts over time and sticks. As suggested in some other answers, the BEST way to get it open is as follows: Pull the latch open and spray WD-40 into the handle openings using the spray tube that came with the WD-40. You may need to repeat this. Note, when I use the word 'latch', I'm talking about the part you pull to open the door, not the lock, which is a separate part inside the door connected to the latch by a metal rod.

There are many ways to then hit the latch to jar the stuck hinge loose. To prevent damage, I folded up an old dish towel, placed it over the latch, and pounded it with medium force with a rubber mallet. It may take just a few hits, or it could take literally hundreds. Initially, the exterior latch will flop loosely. You can see if you're making progress by checking the latch periodically. It will gradually start to break loose and this will be reflected in restored tension in the previously floppy latch. The longer you hit, the tension will eventually be felt through the whole range of motion in the latch. Once full tension is restored, it will open the door.

The first time I did this repair, I simply considered it fixed and stopped working on it. Big mistake, because the locks stuck again in just a couple months and took a lot more work to get open the second time. These latches are cheap and easy to replace (check rockauto.com or other sites - I got my new latches for $12 each).

You must be VERY careful when changing them, otherwise you'll be opening up the door, which isn't necessary if you do it right. To change the latch - remove the two grommets from the door jamb at the latch. Use a 10mm nutdriver to remove the two nuts holding the latch. Care must be taken not to drop the nuts inside the door, but the nuts are angled slightly upward, so gravity is on your side.

Next, CAREFULLY pull the latch out of the door the minimum amount necessary to clear the opening and expose the latch rod that runs from the latch to the lock. IMPORTANT: Before removing the rod from the latch, get a pair of small locking pliers (long hemostat or needle nose vise grips) and attach it to the rod about 1/2" below the latch to hold it in place. This is necessary because once you remove the two nuts holding the latch to the door and the nylon grommet that attaches the rod to the latch, the only thing holding the rod in place is gravity. If you lift the rod more than about 1" while doing this work, it will disengage from the lock inside the door. I learned this the hard way on my first door and actually dropped the rod to the very bottom inside the door. Once the rod is secured with pliers, remove the rod from the nylon retainer clip on the latch and pull the latch free from the door. Installation of the new latch is the opposite procedure.

The second door was a breeze to fix since I didn't have to remove the door panel to retrieve the rod - the whole replacement took less than 10 minutes.

If your dishwasher door won't lock, it could be a problem with the latch adjustment or the door seal. Some latches are designed to be adjustable, and yours may be set too tightly. Look at the owner's manual for specific instructions or follow these basic steps for adjusting the latch:

1. Spray WD-40 or other lubricant onto the latch.
2. Slowly open and close the door several times, noticing whether the door hits the strike plate (the metal plate on the top of the dishwasher frame). Use a hammer to lightly tap the strike plate to move it as needed.
3. If possible, adjust the depth of your latch by unscrewing the latch assembly using a screwdriver and reseating it. Work with the adjustment until it latches correctly.
Note: If your latch is permanently fixed, have a qualified professional address the problem.

The door seal-also called a gasket-can also cause problems if you have a brand new dishwasher or door seal. The good news is that the door seal will mold to the door's shape over the first week or so. Operating your dishwasher with the highest level of heat will help this process happen more quickly. Because the material is pliable, and because heat will soften it, it will seal to the door more securely after those first few loads.

On the flip side, an old door seal can also keep your door from closing correctly. Check the seal for signs of warping or damage. If the seal needs replacing, arrange for service, or consider doing it yourself. In most models, it's a relatively easy DIY project. See Dishwasher gasket replacement for step-by-step instructions.

For more troubleshooting steps, see Dishwasher door repair. I hope this helps!

check all wiring for tightness and any corrosion from door latch up to the central control unit first,if ok then replace door latch component as this part wears out quickly you will need to remove washer top,then door boot spring to release door boot from door frame to access wiring to door lock component

The door latch is won and will need to be replaced.

Look at the other door and look on the front edge to see where the child safety lock switch and see if that is the problem with the other door. That has happened with mine several times. Someone will play with it leaving it on so it can't be opened.

Hello & Welcome to FixYa
This is a common problem that occurs when self-clean cycle is used after a long time or when the oven gets old. Recommended repair is replacing the door latch-lock assembly as the latch mechanism cannot be repaired. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.
Kevin

Hello, this is caused by a bad door lock actuator. the door lock actuator is part of the door latch. the door latch will need to be replaced to correct this problem.

Remove the rear door outside handle. .

Remove the interior trim panel.

Remove the water deflector

Sounds like you have a defective door lock solenoid which is inside that door, requires the door panel removal and an inspection of the solenoid and its wiring connectors and harness for connection problems,breaks,or wear.