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I have a Dometic duotherm unit on a 2005 motorhome - actually 2 units with dual zones. The problem started last year with the rear unit icing up and having some issues with not turning on and off at appropriate times based on the temp. I relocated the sensors from the factory locations and that got better, I also figured out that if I let the air flow from the ducting rather than from the main unit it didn't ice up and drip as much. Although I didn't get it checked out last year like I should have, I am having more problems this year but with the heat pump & furnace side.
The problem is that the rear unit is triping the breaker and running very hot, the air coming out of the roof unit is as hot if not hotter on heatpump setting than it is on furnace setting. In addition, even though the front unit is set on HP the furnace comes on sometimes instead, the outside air temp. is well above the level that would cause the furnace to activate normally. I have cleaned the air filters with no improvement. Any advice would be appreciated.
Dave
Sorry I'm not familiar with this brand. I recently acquired an RV from a real estate deal. My sellers couldn't take it with them to Montana so they sold it to me for $500 when they're house sold. I'm excited to get it running. It's supposed to have a fairly new AC unit but the engine isn't running. Good luck with yours. http://www.canyonrvrepair.com/Auto-Services-Auto-Repairs-Hemet-CA.html
You should check with Dometic or your manufacturer we are told that there was a recall on the Dometic Air Conditioners, although we never received a recall notice. Our Dometic Air Conditioner caught on fire burned up on our RV.
Ice on the coil is caused by 3 things; 1, low freon charge. 2, inadequate air flow across the coil, this can be a filter or dirty coil (I think you addressed these) or the fan isn't blowing enough air over the coil. 3, the unit is running continuously. A heat pump has another cause, that is something defective in the defrost system, like the sensor, reversing valve, control board or relay. If the breaker is tripping its because the compressor is over amping. There can be an obstruction blocking the fan or something like #2. Or the compressor is going out. If the breaker doesn't trip on other settings, like cool, but trips on heat, then I would look at the airflow.
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Check in your unit for a switch on side wall or near ceiling for selecting which AC unit gets power. Should be front, back, or both. Usually black knob to turn. Sounds like 12 volt power getting to it that tells it what to do, but also need to switch over to allow 120VAC power to actually supply power to it for running fan, compressor etc. Be sure to check all breakers in panel as well. You will probably not be able to run both at same time unless plugged in to 50amp or plugged in to 30amp, and generator running as well. I'm thinking a 94 only has 30amp power cable anyway.
Can you get 1 to run good at a time, or does same happen when 1 only is run? Some RV's have an energy management system incorporated, that cuts power back to certain appliances when necessary. There were/are some units (RV's) that needed to be plugged in as well as generator running in order to run 2 AC units at same time. Let me know.
I'm not sure what the problem may be but you could try calling All
Seasons RV Appliance Parts & Service. There number is
1-800-344-0673 they have helped me in the past. That and there tech
calls are free so it wouldn't hurt to give them a call.
When you say loud, do you mean as in airflow noise, or vibration like noise? I take it this is a ducted system as well. Does it have quik cool option on ceiling assy.?
improper sealing around ac if no ac the molding that runs down the center or around the perimeter of the roof do a search on rv leaks on you tube this will help you on your quest also in my personal opinon i would trade the unit cause two years or water damage you are going to have mold in the unit so just get rid of it
In the main unit, remove the inner shroud and then pull down the control unit (two phillips screws). Remove the access cover on the control box to view the dip switches. The switches should be set to Zone 1 and Zone 2 to on and then the furnace to on (if so equipped). If the zones are not in the in position, then set them to the correct position and reset the thermostat again. If they are correct, try turning them off, resetting the thermostat and then turning them back on and resetting again. If this does not work, then you have a bad thermostat or control box.
You must have too many things running on that circuit. Check your connection to the power box.Loose connection on the receptacle can cause the breaker to trip or too many things running on the same circuit. If the breaker is old it might need to be replaced.
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