Trouble wiring timer

No one appears to have tried this before as it is more often used as a Pool Timer, But what you need is the Switch and the Timer wires in parallel. So live to the timer and also to the switch, and negative to the timer and the switch. In that way either the light switch or the timer can switch the lights on and off.

https://www.google.com/search?q=wire+a+T104+intermatic+timer+on+a+277v+light+circuit+with+a+switch+already+installed

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Copy following link for timer wiring.
Your box does not have neutral wire
The GE 15070 7-day timer wires same as GE 15312 7-day sunsmart timer
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GE-15312-timer.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Turn off power between each action listed below.

Is dial rotating and keeping time on timer?
This will tell you if 120V is arriving and working at timer.
Cut ground wire and check circuit again.
This can narrow down ground fault problem.
Disconnect wires from timer and connect wires direct to outdoor lights.
This will tell you if timer is suspect.

List all things on same circuit breaker, and test each to find which are working.
Each electrical box is connected to next box and to next box back to circuit breaker.
Open each box and check for loose wires, signs of burning.
This will narrow down location of problem.

When working in main breaker box, the wires on main breaker have power at all times, even when main breaker is turned off. This is true unless meter is pulled. Always stand on dry boards and never lean into or touch anything else when working in main box. Do not hold screwdriver between teeth.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from voltage.
Test voltage at circuit breaker. Make sure neutral and ground are attached tight on busbar. Make sure black wire is attached tight to breaker. Move black wire to another same-size circuit breaker. Disconnect ground wire and test circuit again to check if ground fault is causing problem.

Resources and illustrations.
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-circuit-breaker.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html

Woods 58018 is White-colored 120Volt 7-day programmable timer that replaces single-pole switch only.
I am not certain what is meant by 3-pole circuit.
If you mean 3-way circuit where more than one switch control same light, as you find with hallway light, then 59018 is not correct timer.

Open following links to see list of timers suited for 3-way switch replacement.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Woods-timers-and-manuals.html#59028
http://waterheatertimer.org/GE-timers-and-manuals.html#15312
http://waterheatertimer.org/ST01C-program.html#ST01C

Timers that work for 3-way do not replace 3-way switch wire-for-wire.
Read manual carefully.
When you replace 3-way switch with a timer, one 3-way switch is replaced, and other 3-way switch remains.
The remaining 3-way switch is always rewired so the 3-way timer works. AND each brand of timer requires slightly different wiring parameter.
Some 3-way timers can only replace the 3-way switch located closest to circuit breaker box, commonly called the LINE side. Others can replace either LINE side or LOAD side 3-way., and wiring is different for each. Some timers require neutral wire and some are battery-powered.

Add a comment with exact information about switch and wiring you are working on for suggestion of best timer for that purpose.

T10004 control panel has 240V T104 timing mechanism.

1) You can use T104 timer to control 120volt light if you have a neutral wire:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/T-104-control-120V-Load3-45.jpg

2) Lights are usually 120Volts with black hot wire and white neutral wire.
3) T104 timer is 240Volts with two hot wires L1 and L2 that can be white-black wires or red-black wires.

4) Open following link to see basic 120V and 240V circuits.
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html

5) Open following link for T104 wiring options
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html

From the description you gave on your post , sounds like you hooked the timer up correctly . Again , from the panel the hot ( black ) is jointed with the blacks feeding the inside switch and the timer correct ? And the Neutral ( white ) is jointed feeding the inside lights and timer for outside correct ? And from the timer ( GE model 15086 ) the Red Wire ( Switch Leg from timer ) is connected to the Black ( Switch Leg ) feeding the outside lights correct ? If this is exactly how you've wired your timer , then you have done your homework . Now all you need to do is make sure you have programed your timer correctly , and with your instructions that came with the timer , this should be no problem . If you continue to experience trouble , my suggestion would be to return the timer . It's not unheard of for some of these timers to come from the factory defective . This wiring configuration should not affect your inside lights . I hope this helps your home wiring project . I'm an electrician if that's any consolation !

1) WH21 manual does not say if indicator lights up when Load is ON. That says indicator lights up when timer has power.
2) Flip manual control to reverse program and see if light stays on or goes off.

3) GE15207 water-heater-timer has two different indicator lights. One is ON when timer has power. The other is ON when Load has power. But GE timer has NO and NC terminals.

4) The reason I answered this question is that folks have problems wiring timers and then ask questions trying to piece together why timer is not working.
5) If timer is not functioning as expected, read below, or add a comment with details about your wiring.

6) Wiring WH21
240V circuits have 2 hot leads.
Hot leads from breaker connect to center terminal and to left terminal.
Leads going to Load (water heater) connect to center terminal and to right terminal
If you have leads from breaker and leads to Load reversed, timer will not function except when manual control is switched ON.
In this case, reverse wires on right and left terminals.

the black wires that are pigtailed are your hot and the red that is seperate is the switch leg. It will not be hot until you have it connected to a switch or the timer

Tork timers are each a bit different depending on voltage and model number.

Each timer has a model number on inside of timer door.

1) Add a comment with model numbers for each timer, and voltage you are working with, and I will post the conversion wiring.

2) Also look up your model number and wiring diagram on following link.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Tork-timers-and-manuals.html

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

if humidifier was wired into thermostat circuit for power instead of seperate transformer , this can happen. you need to see if you voltage going to the solenoid valve. if you do , and it isn't opening, the valve is bad . this is assuming that it is using a # 50 relay to come on only when the fan runs . . make sure the water valve is open