I have an electric stove that has 1 black, 1 red

most stoves are 220 and will have four wires(red,black,white and ground). If you only have 3, black to black, ground to ground, red to white

Attach it to the ground wire.
What you have is a 4 wire circuit with a 3 wire appliance.

I test these timers.
GE 15071 timer has internal clock that runs on electricity. That's why timer has extra wire.
Intermatic, GE, Tork, Leviton, Sylvania, Woods, Utilitec etc in-wall timers each wire the same way.
The only tiny difference is GE doesn't have green ground wire.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Program-wire-Utilitec-0192773.html

Here's what to do:
1) Old switch has two screws (excluding green ground screw)
One screw on old switch has 2 black wires >> these are hot wires > timer black wire connects to these hot wires. This will power the timer.
2) The other switch wire connects to timer red wire. This will send timer signal to lights.

3) Timer white wire is for the timer clock.
Timer white wire connects to other white wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut >>> these are neutral wires, and now timer clock will operate
4) For EZ connection to other white wires, strip back another inch on timer white wire so stranded wire can wrap like a candy cane around solid copper wires. Then twist wire nut on very tight.

5) When wiring is complete, push door on timer for manual override. Lights should turn ON-OFF. If lights do not turn on, reverse timer red and timer black wires. Make sure outdoor bulbs are working.

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It sounds like wiring is wrong.

If you have GE Tork Intermatic UPM Woods Brinks Hagar Pass-n-Seymour Stanley Westek in-wall timer, with red, black, white and green wires, then you probably put red and white wires together.
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See instructions along with image at following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Program-wire-Utilitec-0192773.html

Heres how to wire timer
1) Timer-green-wire connects to bare ground wire.
2) Switch has 2 wires. Take switch wires and connect them to timer-black-wire and timer-red-wire. Choose either one for now.
3) In back of electric box are white wires twisted together and covered with wire nut. Connect timer-white to these wires.
4) If electric box does not have white wires described above, then connect timer-white to bare ground, along with timer-green wire.
5) Turn on electricity, and push ON-OFF button > with GE timer, door is push-button switch. If lights come on, timer is wired correctly. If lights do not come on, then reverse timer-red and timer-black wires.

Manual for GE 15265
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/GE-15265-manual.pdf
15A timer works fine on two bulbs, up to 1440 total watts.

If old switch has 2 screws plus green ground screw, then timer is right.
If old switch has 3 screws plus green ground screw, 15265 doesn't replace 3-way switch.

Timer-green wire connects to bare ground wire

Old switch has 2 screws with wires on each.
One wire is Hot-from breaker and this connects to timer-black wire.
One wire Goes-to-lights and this connects to timer-red wire.
If you get these two wires reversed, timer will not work, so reverse them.
It will not blow circuit if the timer-red and timer-black wires are reversed.

Timer-White wire is the confusing wire for everybody:
Timer-white wire runs clock motor located inside timer.
In back of electric box are neutral white wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut.
Connect timer-white to these neutral wires.
If box does not have neutral white wires, connect timer-white to bare ground wire.

If I understand correctly, your stove plugs into the wall.
Your stove plug looks similar to one shown



Review wires inside wall.
There are 2 hot wires which are red and black
There is 1 neutral wire which is white
And there is a bare ground wire

Connect wires so they match image above.
2 hot wires, black and red go across from each other
White neutral connects to flat prong on top
Bare ground connects to round prong on bottom
Older wiring might not have both white and ground ... if you do not have both, then connect the wire you have to the flat prong on top

Doesn't really matter. I would wire the black/red wire to red, and black to black on the stove, but it's just 2 seperate 120v circuits. They are both 'hot'.

This is not to code. The white is neutral and is of the same polarity as a bare wire. The red and the black are considered hot and would be 220.

Hello. I can help you. What you have there at the wall is a circuit with 120 volts of power available. Your Gas oven requires 240 volts of power, thus the additional [red] wire. That said, they do not match up.

You will have to run a 240 volt wire from your electrical panel to rear of your stove opening with the correct circuit breaker in the panel, the correct amperage wire to the stove, the correct receptacle for the stove and the correct plug on the stove.

This is serious electricity here so do not proceed on your own as you could get seriously hurt or worse.

I'm assuming this is a 220/240v unit. The wall has two blacks, each with reference to white is 120v. Since you need 240 volts, you need to use both blacks. The third wire you'll need is ground. ALWAYS make sure you use a ground wire!!

Realistically, the white is connected to the Ground terminal in your circuit breaker box. Best practice says cap off the white, and use the GROUND.