Main problem, bottom two elements have conked out. Where do I get new ones? Next, how clean glass door when it won't come out of slots? Next, what do I use to clean shploops patina off crumb tray?

re: Oster TSSTRTS2S2-033 disassembly

Hi, I just took one apart to fix a cold solder joint, so here's my take on disassembly.

The brushed aluminum cover comes off by removing nine screws on the bottom, then manipulating seven tabs and removing the main handle on the plunger.

First, remove the main handle. It has a small plastic locking tab underneath and the tab may break because it hooks onto a metal spike in the toaster and this seems intended to be permanent. I broke it because I just pulled the handle straight off, but I'm not worried because the handle will still go back on reasonably tight; it just won't lock. However, if you want to try to remove it without breaking the plastic locking tab, I would try sticking a thin screwdriver under the bottom of the handle to disengage the plastic tab from the spike.

Next, remove nine of eleven screws on the bottom. Don't remove the two screws directly below the cord switch on the side - it should be obvious which two screws stay on. And take the crumb tray out too.

Next, there are three metal tabs on the bottom that need to be bent. Two of the tabs were held by the removed screws at the back of the toaster. Just bend those two out of the way away from the plastic bottom. The third tab is located in a hole directly between those other two tabs. Take a pair of needle nose pliers and twist the tab so it will unlock and allow the tab to slide through the slot in the plastic toaster bottom.

The four remaining tabs are located on the top of the toaster just inside the main toast slots. The top metal cover folds into the toast slots and forms metal tabs at each end of each toast slot. They unhook relatively easily by sliding the top cover tabs about 1mm towards the centre of the toaster - there's no bending of metal required.

At that point, it takes some playing around to actually remove the cover. Start by working it straight upwards, then lift it off at the back of the toaster first, before the front because there's a cable at the front of the toaster that prevents the top cover from lifting completely off straight up and, as well, the metal plunger arm that holds the handle will be the last thing to unhook. The plunger arm and the cord retraction mechanisms do get in the way, but it is possible to do it without forcing anything.

Note that after the metal cover is unfastened and pulled off, it is still attached to the toaster mechanism by a short internal electronics cable which connects the toaster to the front buttons in the cover. The front buttons and display remain attached inside the cover. At this point, the toaster should still function normally despite it having the cover off.

I hope that helps.

JimmyHaulinHogs

I ordered bulbs online at http://www.smallappliance.com/ They come in a set of 6, you can't order less than that, I looked all over the place. Here is the part number: Krups SS-185303 Heating Element. You might want to find them on Amazon.com because by the time you order them from the above website, with shipping, it will come to more than you will pay total on Amazon and it's coming from the same place. Just in case Amazon doesn't have them in stock (you never know) I wanted to give you the source for the bulbs.

1. Unplug unit and remove all trays and racks and crumb tray. (I took this time to do some much needed deep cleaning too.)
2. First you have to remove the old bulb. I tried it the hard way by trying to pull it out - it's connected with screws on the left and right to the connector wires.
3. I placed the oven on a big light colored towel and had a cup ready to place all my screws in. I also took pictures of it before I started taking it apart so I had something to reference when putting back together. I used a small sharp phillips head screw driver, DW40, household oil, a set of leather household gloves and patience.
4. I first removed the cover of the whole oven by starting with the bottom legs (there's a screw under the rubber foot), the bottom, back and then removed screws on the face/door. Becareful of the door hinge. You might want to use some household oil or DW40 before you start to attempt this. My oven is 6 years old and we've used it everyday. There was some accumulated stuff around the screws.
5. Carefully remove cover of oven and door/face. There's going to be a thick wire that will connect the interface circuit board to the internal boards so again, becareful when removing the face of the oven. The glass door may pop out of the hinge so, again, becareful.
6. Make sure and observe how the door hinge and spring are placed and take a picture as you're going to have to put it back together.
7. When I got to the connector of the bulbs I had to use, very carefully, some more household oil on the screw.l I held the ceramic socket with my leather utility gloves on and gently applied pressure to get the screw loose on both sides.
8. Carefully place new bulb in hole/holders and gently screw the wires back on, start with the right side (facing the oven).
9. Reassemble the door hinge if you took it off. and place the face on just for position.
10. Attach the outer cover, back first and then bottom.
11. Attach face and make sure hinge is working properly and you've tucked that wire back in.
12. Attach legs.
13. Remove anything else plugged into socket you use for the oven (just in case it blows the socket which has happened with some DIY repair in our house). Plug in oven and test it out.
14. I hope this has helped you. If not, find some coupons for Bed Bath and Beyond and purchase a new one and sell your extra bulbs on ebay or craigslist. Good luck!

I would say that it sounds like the bottom element isn't working. I am assuming that you can tell that the fan for the convection feature is running. You should be able to see through the glass door to see if the element is heating up.

<a href="http://www.toasterandconvectionovens.com">ToasterandConvectionOvens.com</a>

I just fixed the problem with my Krups FBC-212. The door would not stay closed because the spring that keeps it in the closed position was broken. I ordered another from one of the small appliances parts sites (about $7 plus shipping) and that fixed it. I will describe how to do it and how to avoid the mistake that made it much harder and longer than it should have.
Remove the black screws at the back side, the ones holding the external black metal case to the silver chassis. There are 9 of these on my oven.
Also remove the 3 screws holding the left-side foot on.
Now you can probably slide the metal case (previously held on by the 9 screws) out from under the black metal front frame on the left side, thereby exposing the broken spring.
If you cannot get it out from under the lip of the front frame, you can take off the right-hand foot, and if that is not enough, you can remove THREE of the 4 black screws just inside the door holding the front frame to the chassis. Do NOT remove the lower left one next to where the flat door hinge piece goes into oven (which was my mistake) because that screw holds a critical black plastic piece in place.
By now you will be able to slide the black case that covers the sides and top backward and outward enough to expose the broken spring. It will be obvious how to attach the new one.

Hello,

Preheat ovens only when necessary. With conventional ovens, keep the preheating time to a minimum. Unless you're baking breads or pastries, you may not need to preheat the oven at all.

Food cooks more quickly and efficiently in ovens when air can circulate freely. Don't lay foils on racks. If possible, stagger pans on upper and lower racks to improve air flow.

Use glass or ceramic pans in ovens. You can turn down the temperature about 25°F and cook foods just as quickly.

Do not open the oven door often to preview the food. Each time you open the door the oven temperature drops by 25°F. Watch the clock or use a timer instead.

Full-size ovens are not very efficient for cooking small- to medium-sized meals, it generally pays to use toaster ovens or microwave ovens.

Check to be sure the oven door gasket is tight. Adjust or replace gaskets as required.

If you have a self-cleaning oven, consider using the self-cleaning feature immediately after regular baking when the oven is still hot. Less energy will be required to reach the cleaning temperature. Try not to use the self-cleaning feature too often.

Keep range-top burners and reflectors clean; they will reflect the heat better and save energy.

Match the size of the pan to the heating element; more heat will get to the pan and less will be lost to the surrounding air. A 6-inch pan on a 8-inch burner will waste over 40% of the energy.

On electric stove-tops, use only flat-bottomed pans that make full contact with the element. A warped or rounded pan will waste most of the heat.

When cooking with a gas range-top burner, use moderate flame settings to conserve gas. Also make sure the pilot light is burning efficiently, with a blue flame. A yellowish flame indicates an adjustment is needed because the gas is burning inefficiently.

Whenever possible, use a pressure cooker. By cooking food at a higher temperature and pressure, cooking time is reduced dramatically and energy use is cut by 50-75%.

Hope this work ..........

Solution: buy a new toaster oven. I determined that the manufacturer stopped selling replacement heating elements in 2006, three years after the model year (2003). After market parts makers don't sell the elements for safety and liability reasons. So I got a new one.

Mine just broke too - it won't heat - everything else works - lights, timer ect. but no heat can't cook
without it - love my oven - any solutions ( I guess it's the heating element ) Hope I can get a new one.

you can touch the element but be carefull the glass is thin .... so scrape it and do what you can . THEN USE A COTTON BALL AND ALCOHOL and clean the element that will get rid of the oil you left behind ,you will be fine ......Please if this answer helped , please rate this 3 or 4 stars . and keep me in the paid answer department . A 1 or 2 may knock me down into the unpaid ranks. Thanks Cactus Bob

This problem is caused by screws being loose or dropping off a limiting bracket on the left side of the oven behind the left outer wall.  This bracket allows the front glass panel to remain OPEN, as required for broiling.
To correct this, first check to see that the two black screws facing forward, behind the left side of the front glass panel are tight.  If not, tighten firmly, but be careful not to overtighten.  If this fails to correct the problem, then follow this procedure.
Purchase 2- #4 x 1/2" SS Phillips Pan Head sheet metal screws at your favorite hardware store.  Cost About $1

1. Unplug the oven and place on a flat work surface. Place a rubber mat or towel under the oven to prevent scratching.
2. Remove 2- #4 x 1/4" black phillips flat head screws on the left side of the front glass panel which screw into the black side panel.  These are NOT the screws which hold the bracket, which face forward, but are adjacent to the bracket screws.  Be sure to indentify the proper location of all screws for replacement.
3. Remove the 4- #4 x 3/8" SS phillips pan head screws at the bottom of the left side of the oven.  Pry the metal tab of the back panel slightly off the bottom of the black side panel.
4. Remove the 3- #4 x 3/8" SS phillips pan head screws from the back panel which attaches to the left side black panel.
5. Carefully pry the bottom of the left black side panel up from the bottom of the oven until it is parallel to the top of the oven.  It will seem hard to pry it upward as you are bending two SS tabs holding the black side panel to the SS top.  It will come up easily once you get it started.  When it is parallel to the top, slide the black side panel to the rear to remove it from the two SS tabs.
6. You should now see the limiting bracket at the front of the oven's left side.  Remove the 2- black Phillips screws holding the bracket.
7. Slip the limiting bracket from the oven.  Place on a wood block and with a chisel (or large common screw driver) and hammer, strike the screw holes on the bracket firmly once, so as to close the screw holes slightly.
8. (OPTIONAL)  If available, using a rat tail file (or small flat file), at the crook of the spring lever, carefully increase the indent of the crook ever so slightly.  This will allow the front glass panel to stop more definitely at the open point.
9. Remount the bracket using the 2- #4 x 1/2" SS Phillips Head sheet metal screws you bought. Tighten firmly, but do not overtighten.  Check the front glass panel movement. It should have a definite stop to allow the panel to stay open approximately 1/2" for broiling and should close fully, easily.
10. Slide the left black side panel on to the SS tabs.
11. Pry the left side black panel down until it meet the bottom plate.
12. Replace the bottom screws.
13. Replace the 2- #4 x 1/4" black Phillips flat head screws at the left side of the front of the front glass panel which screw into the black side panel.
14. Replace the back panel screws.

I have the same problem. www.repairshack.com has replacement doors but they are out of stock. You may want to check with them to see when it comes back in. Specifically http://www.repairshack.com/detail.aspx?ID=705 or call
1-888-464-0797.