Shutter problems? I went to my photo lab at school to develope my film and when i went to see the negatives there were some frames where there was no picture at all. It looked like this "picture, picture, NO PICTURE, picture, picture, NO PICTURE"

I would take the film to a custom processing lab; that is where professionals take film. The only difference between 620, which is no longer used, and 120 is the spool that the film is wound on. A custom lab can remove the film from the spool by hand and process it for you. It will be more expensive than you normally pay for processing. You can save money by having them develop the negatives only and then taking the negatives to a low cost lab for machine printing or they can make professional quality prints for you at a cost, of course.

Remove your lens, open the back door and observe through the back, your shutter action. Hearing your shutter does not tell you that there is a picture being taken! Depending on the setting, even at 1/1000 you will see "daylight" for an instant. Obviously, your shutter is not opening at all. Let me know!

Hello Blair,
I too like old school camera, mine are the N2000, N6006, N80, and F100. First without film in the camera I would attempt to release the shutter. If it does then there is something going on with the film transfer causing a bind.

However, If it continues not to release the shutter I would put the FM10 on the shelf then go to KEH.com for another. Just now checked KEH.com, 2014-05-26, a FM10 in EX condition is $89, EX+ condition $99. That would be a much better move than repairing yours and less expensive.

Cordially

Hi. Open the camera back and pull the film further over towards the pick up spool, close the back and try again to take a photo, i had the same problem with an eos 650 and it always worked.Good luck.

look in the tools and see the settings and see if it changed from what you used to have. maybe an app update changed it.

It's scratch along the film and will have been caused by either faulty film (very unlikely but not impossible), or it has been scratched when running through the camera or processing machinery (sadly both very common).

Open the back of your camera and lay a section of scratched negative over the back, emulsion side down, just as it would have been when taking photos. Use the scratch to guide you to find any rough/sharp points especially across the masking frame (the 36mm x 24mm rectangular hole in the camera which determines the size of the image). If you find none, then take your negative along and ask ask at the photo lab you use whether they have had any problems. They'll almost certainly say "no" but will then quietly check and rectify their machinery if they find dirt or debris stuck in there. Frequently the fault is in their sleeving machine which cuts up the negatives into shorter lengths.

Unfortunately, it's a problem which is far more common these days. Most 35mm film cameras are old and poorly maintained, or are just overpriced and badly made plastic toy cameras like the entire Lomo range. In addition, many people get their films processed at local minilabs and as they're used less frequently now the standards of operation and maintenance have generally fallen. I find that if I use a postal processing service the large commercial labs have better maintained machinery. The downside is that the local minilab will often give a more personal service with respect to getting an accurately exposed print and the large commercial lab will not unless you pay for a premium service.

The film is either at the end or stuck. The shutter will not release unless the film advance lever has gone all the way and back.
Make a note of the frame counter. Rewind the film and remove it from the camera (When you feel the film to come loose from the receiving spool, stop rewinding to prevent the end of the film to disappear inside the can. This way you can reload it if it was stuck in the middle.) If the film was completely exposed, take it to be developed.
With the empty camera, try to advance the lever and release the shutter. If this works, the problem was the film and not the camera. Everything is fine. If the problem persists, take it to be repaired.
If the film was stuck in the middle, load it again into the camera. With the lense cap on (preferably in a dark room or similar) 'shoot' as many 'empty' frames as you had on the counter plus two more. Finish the film and develop the pictures.
If the film stucks again at the same place, rewind it and develop normally. It was a bad film.
Hope this helped you to solve the problem.

If you can see the frame numbers on the edge of the unexposed negatives, the problem is most likely either the camera's shutter is not opening, or the camera's take-up/advance mechanism isn't working properly. It could also be that the film isn't being loaded correctly. Check all three, or have a camera shop (not department store!) check it out for you. They should be able to test the first two situations easily, and help you if it's a loading problem.

I take it the streak is a hot streak of light. If you're shooting negative, look at the negative and see if it's one long streak. If so the light leak could be anywhere between the film roll and the take up roll. I would open up the back, go into a closet and shine a bright light on the front of the camera and see if you can find the leak and tape it up. Otherwise, 35mm SLR's are very cheap these days. I'd recommend a Canon A-1 for your daughter, but you can't go wrong with any Canon or Nikon.

Two possibilities : 1 ) your film was not properly loaded into the pick up spool and hence it was transported or exposed ; what you took to the lab was unexposed film. 2) the shutter is not opening and again no exposure takes place. To check this open back , set to slow speed like 8th of a second, and see if the shutter opens and closes properly. If the shutter does not open then it will have to go in, unfortunately. Cost ? If it is just an adjustment ( as I suspect is the case ) you should not pay more than $ 100.