The selective thread cutter not cutting thread.

Huskies are excellent machines. Guessing this is a serger? Doesn't matter. Very likely you could ask Husqvarna.com. Likely, something is a bit out of sync. Or - all sewing machines are 'picky' about being threaded correctly. You might check that.

If the cutter is not moving when the cutter motor runs, there is probably a gear loose in the cutter mechanism. Take the machine to the dealer that you purchased it from, or the nearest authorized dealer. http://webservices.us.vsmgroup.com/DealerLocator.aspx?Brand=Viking

Make sure that you have your warranty card and purchase receipt. If a gear has broken, the mechanism is warrantied to the original owner for 20 years.
If you are the second owner, or the machine was purchased online instead of through an authorized dealer, an authorized dealer will give you an estimate for parts and labor and repair the problem for you.

You need to remove the gray cover next to the needle plate and bobbin cover. First remove the bobbin cover, needle plate, hook cover, and bobbin case. Next, take a small straight slot screw driver, about 3mm wide, and insert it under the gray cover that is just left of the hook area. Pry up the cover just slightly, and at the same time slide the cover towards you. It should just pop off. If you having cutting problems, you should the cutter blade, the cutter holder (black plastic piece), the fetcher (gray metal arm), and the thread bread (copper piece with the little velcro piece at the end). Viking has upgraded a couple of these pieces from the original versions, so you should have better cutting results. And of course clean out this area while your at it.

if you are using HUS bobbins make sure you have it in the holder with the H facing up and then wind through the 2 small pieces of metal.. Hope this helps!

It's okay - it's supposed to do that! The Needle Down button has a different function when you are in Embroidery mode i.e. you have the emb. unit attached.
It moves the emb. arm forward for two reasons: so you can cut top-side jump stitches more easily between colour changes (you touch the button again and the emb. arm returns to under the needle so you can finish the design); and secondly so you can "park" the embroidery unit when you are finished. You can then turn the machine off, remove the emb. unit and replace it in the carry case. If you DON'T do this, the emb. arm is not in the right position to fit into the moulded carry case properly.

The Broken Thread message usually means that it has started the colour, but the thread has been pulled down underneath instead of making nice locked stitches. Hold onto the thread end until the machine has stopped and beeped for you to cut the thread. This usually solves that problem. Sometimes the thread gets pulled out of your hand so just back up the stitches a few and start over, holding the thread more tightly. Don't tug on the thread - just keep a firm grip.

Designer 1s often cut the bobbin thread too short so that it can't make those nice locked stitches when it starts. You need to take off the hoop, open up the bobbin cover and use your stylus, the tip of a pair of scissors, tweezers (whatever is to hand) to pull the bobbin thread out a little. Instead of cutting it on the bobbin thread cutter, just let it hang outside by 1/8" or so. That way you can be sure there is enough bobbin thread available for the stitch to lock. Don't use the scissors button on the machine after every colour change. Sure, it makes for a tidier back of the embroidery with less work for you afterwards, but if it means you are taking the hoop and bobbin cover off after every colour change then it is not worth it in time-saving.
If your machine is doing this - cutting the bobbin thread too short - mention it to your tech. when you machine goes in for its next service. He may be able to tweak the bobbin cutter so it does not cut so close.

Does the metal arm come out to grab the threads to cut it? Is there a blade in the metal arm that cuts the tread? I think a standard utility knife cutter blade is the same size (just like the one that cuts the bobbin thread when you put in a new bobbin). What happens when you activate the cutter is the arm comes out, grabs the threads, brings them to the blade which cuts the threads, the velcro by the cutter holds the bobbin thread in place for the next stitch. Otherwise the thread may end up on top and the top thread would not be able to pick it up for the next stitch.

Good luck.

Hi!

Check to see if the lower thread be tangled. Also, the bobbin could be threaded improperly in the shuttle hook. Rethread the bobbin in the shuttle hook.
How to detangle a thread---

When a machine stops operation due to tangled thread, do not turn the pulley by force.
If the pulley is turned by force then, lower thread might not be picked up correctly and stitches might not be formed correctly.

If threads get tangled, remove a needle plate and cut the tangled threads by scissors or cutter.

Do rate the solution if you find it helpful & useful.

Thanks
Rylee

there is the temp fix-epoxy when putting it on (actually can work well, just dont epoxy it on the bottom and freeze it or the permanent fix -new hook cover complete where the cog is'nt going to come off on the new part

Designer 1 bobbin case tension adjustment:
When the bobbin runs out, sometimes it bends the bobbin case tension spring. Then tension is too light. Take the bobbin case out of the machine. Tie the loose bobbin thread to the Designer 1 needle plate. Insert the bobbin in the bobbin case. Here’s the tricky part set the bobbin case on the table as if it’s in the machine (Bobbin is visible and sitting horizontal to table top) threaded as if sewing and loose end tied to needle plate (that is removed from the machine). Lift the bobbin case off the table rotate it so that the flat side of the bobbin are vertical to the table and no longer horizontal. Have the bobbin case oriented so that the thread coming out of the bobbin case sprint (slot area where it is put for sewing) is at the top. Lift it high enough that the needle plate is lifted from the table. It should not release thread unless you shake it gently and then a very small amount of thread. The needle plate is the exact weight resistance your bobbin case should have on the thread.

I have a designer SE, I ran across this site and found it very helpful. This person is a retired machine repair person and has a wealth of knowlege. <http://www.sewmuch4retirement.com/tips.html> from what I understand the blade needs to be cleaned as part of the Maintenance, it also can be replaced.

Take a look at this site, perhaps it will help

Far Away Grandma