Gap between sink bowl & chromed part of faucet hole

Change the gaskets.

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Popular Grohe 3427 Concetto Single Hole Bathroom Faucet - Chrome questions, problems & fixes. Find expert solutions to common issues, DIY guides, repair ...

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Remove it, (Don't forget water will come out when you uncscrew it!!!) clean it thoroughly, especially the ends, clean and check seating of any rubber washers to make sure they are fitted correctly and not being distorted when the rings are tightened, reseat it with no force (it should sit naturally without having to force it in) and tighten rings. There are lots of videos on youtube showing how. If you cant stop it leaking buy a new trap. It's worth while looking very carefully for exactly where the leak is before you remove the trap, it might be coming from higher up. Repair Leaky Sink Drain Pipe

follow this steps and fix it. God bless you

1. Remove the shower head from the pipe.
2. Clean the arm threads and wrap them with plumbers' joint tape.
3. Screw the head back on and hand-tighten it. Remove any excess compound or tape.
4. Test and retighten as needed.

Repair a shower head that leaks at the swivel:

1. Unscrew the shower-head body from the swivel-ball ring.
2. Find the O-ring or a similar seal inside. Replace it and screw the shower head back into place.
3. Turn off the water supply and open the faucet handle to relieve water pressure.
4. Carefully loosen the coupling nuts at the shutoff valves and at the base of the faucet.
5. Carefully remove the supply tubes.
6. Remove the locknuts that hold the faucet to the sink and lift the faucet out.
7. Clean the area where the old faucet sat.
8. As needed, install the new spray hose and supply tubes, if any, through their holes in the sink.
9. Set the rubber gasket that came with the faucet on the sink where it will be mounted. If no gasket is supplied, apply plumber's putty.
10. Set the faucet into position and center it.
11. From under the sink, attach the faucet locknuts to hold it to the sink.
12. Reinstall the supply lines, then turn them on and test the faucet. Turn it on carefully because the line and faucet have air in them.

wrap the faucet with a rubber

check under sink for a clogged or a bad trap in drain. it is hard to believe that the smell is coming from faucet.

You shouldn't have to disassemble everything in order to get to the trap (elbow joint). Most pedestal sinks are designed so that you can get to the trap from the back (generally after getting down on your hands and knees and crawling around with a flashlight). Most sink stoppers that are worked from the faucet itself have a little bar that extends down the back of the sink behind the drain. It will clip with a little metal piece to a lever that sticks out the back of the drain before the trap. The lever goes through a hole in the drain and pokes into a hole in the bottom of your sink stopper. As you move the lever, you will notice that your stopper goes up and down.

Unclip the rod from the lever and you should be able to unscrew the lever from the back of the drain (don't loose the little gasket that sits inside the screw-cap as it keeps water from leaking out here). At this point, you can pull out the stopper and see what is going on. If cleaning off the stuff attached to your stopper doesn't solve the problem, you can then remove the trap to see if anything is clogging that. Hopefully, by this point, your sink clog has been identified and you just need to reassemble, making sure when you put your stopper lever back in that you actually get it into the appropriate hole in the stopper itself.

If this doesn't solve your problem, it's more serious and you probably want to call a plumber as the issue is either a clog farther along or a problem with the venting of the sink drain.

If you are dealing with the type of Moen faucet I think you are, what you need to do is remove the pop-up rod. do this by loosening the locking bolt on the linkage under the sink and pulling the rod out from the top. Once the rod is out you will need to find the correct size allen wrench which goes into the center hole. there is a mounting bolt in there that needs to be unscrewed. Easy when you know how.

Option 1 ; Cap off the sprayer.  Option 2 ; Relocate the air gap as high as possible under the sink but then you have no drain under it in case it backflows (it is really a vacuum breaker ,  one way check valve) Option 3: Take back the faucet and get one of those that the spout is also the sprayer.

hi

If dirty water spews from the air gap, the drain line is kinked or clogged. Note: If you've recently installed a garbage disposal, be sure the knockout plug for the dishwasher was removed when the connection was made

1) Remove the cover from the air gap at the top of the sink (usually a short chrome domed cylinder that sits at the back of the sink), and, using a wire, clean it. Also check the entire length of the drain hose for kinks and blockages, especially at the drain connection to the disposer or drain line.

2) Once the dishwasher is cool, shut off the power to it, and—if your dishwasher is made to allow this—remove the strainer, located under the bottom spray arm at the base of the cabinet (see illustration). Unscrew the hubcap, lift the spray arm off, and remove any clips that hold the strainer to get it out. Scrub it clean with a brush, and then replace it.

3) Determine whether the sink trap or house drain line is clogged.

4) If the dishwasher still doesn't drain properly, the drain hose may be clogged or the drain valve may need replacement. At this point, it's usually best to call a repairperson. You can check the drain hose for obstructions, but this sometimes involves pulling the dishwasher out from under your counter to access the hose, disconnecting the hose at both ends, and flushing it out with a faucet or garden hose.

Hope this helps

No matter what type of sink you purchase, the drain and water-supply connections are generally installed in the same way. Hand-tighten a female adapter onto the drain stub-out at the wall. Slide slip nuts onto the drain arm and the sink's tailpiece. Fit a P-trap in place and tighten the slip nuts by hand. Connect flexible water-supply tubes onto the faucet's tailpieces, and route them to the shut-off valves. Tighten coupling nuts with an adjustable wrench. Remove the faucet aerator, turn on the water, check for leaks at the shutoff valves, and then turn on the faucet to check for leaks in the drain assembly. Replace the aerator.