IR 2475E Wont start up 220 everywhere No LOP switch

Could be several things. Battery connection, starter solenoid, starter, neutral safety switch, ignition switch. First have someone hit the starter while the key is in the start position. If no start, check to see if voltage is at the starter solenoid. Try moving the gear indicator back and forth from P to D with the key in crank position. Make sure the park brake is set. Make sure the battery cables are clean and tight. There should be several feed wires coming off the positive post. Make sure all are ok. Some are fusible links and may have burnt.

Nice picture but not good enough to read the nameplate info from where I'm at. What does the name plate say for volts? and for phase, two lines or three lines?
Beware of this, the air tool you will be using requires a certain amount of volume of air, measured as CFM (cubic feet of air) and a two horse compressor may produce you about 5 cfm when new and in good condition while the tool may require 7 - 15 cfm. This scenario just won't work well. The tool should be supplied with a decent volume of cfm to work right.
The next thing is 220/240 volts vs. 110/120. The amount of juice, called amps is twice in a low voltage hook up. Example is your 220 volts motor needs 10 amps and your 110 volts motor needs 20 amps feed. If you multiply the set of volts and amps, it will equal the same as the other set. These are called volt-amps and are synonymous to watts, watts is power, you pay for power measured thru time, the watt-hour is what you consume.
With the above given, referring to amperes, or juice, this determines the thickness of the wires feeding the motor. A little juice needs only a thin wire (such as with high voltage hook up, 220 volts) and more juice as with a 110 volt hook up, will require a thicker wire.
Not meeting into consideration the wire thickness and using thinner wire than required presents a major problem with friction or resistance to juice flow, power loss in the form of heat. Power loss includes voltage drop, loosing volts in the skinny wires. This scenario leads to burnt motors, tripping breakers and blowing fuses, you can oversize the wire thickness but not underside it.
The use of a high voltage is an advantage in saving copper and money in considerably long runs of circuit conductors. Power companies distribute power at 10 times higher and more than what consumers use to save in copper and power loss, good for transmitting power far. Then by use of a transformer, mounted on poles, they reduce the power to consumer level. 240 volts with a center tap. This is how and why we get 110/220 Volts three wire.
I hope you find an answer in all this mumbo-jumbo of electricity. See if the motor is dual or single voltage, the name plate will say this info. If dual voltage, then the motor connection will have to be reconfigured for whichever voltage it is changed to.

Please check out the Web Site Below. It is a Quick Start manual for IR Compressors.

It should have everything you need. It DOES NOT Show you any wiring connections AT the motor.

Hope this helps....Jim

http://www.irtechpubs.com/ir_pdfs/Compressed%20Air/Air%20Compressors/Reciprocating%20Compressor/80445703.PDF

Unplug the dryer and the first thing to do is check for the presence of 220 volts at the wall outlet. If you lost one leg of the 220 volts, it is possible for your dryer to run but there will not be any heat. Once you verified there is definitely 220 volts at the wall outlet, remove the rear cover. On the lower right hand side you will see a silver canister which contains the heating element. Remove the lower two wires directly from the heating element and check this for continuity. If it is good, on the left hand side of the same canister they often install a thermal safety which may have tripped. Do the same test as with the heating element. Remove the wires and test the thermal safety for continuity. If this is good, move to the blower housing on the left side of the exhaust vent and look for a white piece of plastic which has two wires on it. Remove these two wires and check this item for continuity.

you can follow this link below to find out how to test for individual components to find out what part is faulty...

http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-heat+repair.htm

You can also order for any replacement part from the following Websites

www.PartSelect.com

www.SearspartsDirect.com

If you found my solution of any help ... please do not forget to rate the solution

Dear J,
I just do happen to live close to their factory.
I pass it often.
Call their factory for your answer, better to call them during business hours.
Here is their number: 1-888-436-3722
God bless your efforts.

Your breaker in the breaker box has a double pole breaker for the stove one breaker is shot so you still have 120volts which runs the lights 240volts for the elements.Turn main power off and replace the breaker. To verify for sure pull the stove out and unplug it check power at the plug you need 240volts at the plug. If i dont have a plug and wired straight in disconnect the wires and check the wires.

You will need to put an amp meter on the compressor wires and monitor the reading till it trips the breaker. If the reading exceeds the name plate spec then chances are the compressor is going bad.If the spec is in watts, take your amp reading and multiply it by 120 volts this will give you the wattage of the compressor. For a second opinion take it to repairshop to see if it is worth repairing.
Good Luck!

Check your GFI switch

It is the capacitor write down the wiring colors to the capacitor and then disconnect the safety disconnect on side of house. And even turn off the breaker to the condensing unit. Okay now that no power is going to the unit take out the capacitor you wrote down what wires went where and ohm out the herm side go from the center post to herm side. Should be bad wont get a reading. Get new capacitor and re install. good luck ken

If not capacitor get back to me. And please leave good feed back

Double check the switch in the back of the pc on the power supply. If their is a switch, you can try it in both positions. It is possible their is no switch, older compaq's are iffy. The switch will be black. Also check the 110/230 switch. I don't know what country you live in, however you may need to make sure that switch is in the appropriate spot. 110 for USA and 220/230 for UK

Also, try unplugging your pc. Let it set for about 1 minute. Plug it back in and try again.