I know this may sound strange but remove the brake fluid cap. on the cap is a sensor, do this away from any other vehicle and yours and shack the sensor by the cap a good few times. as fast as you can. then re fit the sensor see if the lights go off. sometimes it works sometimes not. this just because the brake light is on, this only usually comes on when the sensor thinks there is low brake fluid. and it can also tell the abs as well. and this is why both the lights are on. also make sure the fluid is at full markings.
SOURCE: BRAKE WARNING LIGHT
I dunno if this will work on your BMW, but on my BMW Z3 and M3, it was....
Turn the ignition key to position 2, but do NOT start the car. Wait for
about 45 seconds and the brake warning message will be reset.
If it doesn't reset, then the brake sensor was damage. You will need to replace the brake sensor. It sounds like you replace the brake right after you saw the warning, so the brake sensor should be okay.
SOURCE: 2001 oldsmobile silhouette traction corntol is off and ABS light
I agree with the post about the tail lights. And the symptom about the brakes on when starting was also helpful. When I took off my rear tail lights and removed the top light bulb (top of the 4 is closest to connector) then repeat starting the car the problem is gone. I have a whole drawer of these bulbs that I removed, not because the filament was burned out, but because the base (similar to circuit card edge connector) had heat damage and melted. I am not sure exactly what the problem is but I think there are multiple conductors in the fixture which are too close or get moisture shorts. Anyway I hypothesize the circuit for daytime running lights is leaking current into the brake light circuit, and it causes that module that controls traction control and ABS to declare a fault. When you start with foot on the brakes the brake lamp is pulled on (I don't know if switches hi or lo) so that module doesn't declare the fault until you release the brakes.
I put in new bulbs and it works fine for now, but I know it may reappear some day then I will repeat, disassembly of the fixtures and inspect bulb bases for heat damage and clean out and replace. That is what did the trick for me.
Thanks Fixya and all contributors
SOURCE: Yellow DSC and Brake light on... recently changed brake pads
Abs and dsc are related and with the light on these won't work. It is possible that you need to go back to where the work was done to look this over.
SOURCE: golf mk4 sdi brake light problem??
What colour is this light.
The Golf mk4 sdi certainly should have brake pad wear sensors front and
rear and the light on dash for this is orange with a similar symbol to
what you describe.
The ABS light is orange with ABS printed on it
John
SOURCE: ABS and brake fault warning
I has a clicking/knocking noise on one of my 407 (54 plate) front wheels after a change of brake pads. On investigation I found that the bracket to which the caliper hydraulic hose was fixed (at the lower end of the suspension strut) had been bent downward and was catching the CV boot clip. I bent it back up and the noise went. It is possible (if the brake caliper is not supported during pad change) to bend the bracket supporting the hydraulic hose. It could also interfere with the ABS wheel sensor bracket - check. Simply jack-up and support the car on the side with the noise and turn the wheel by hand to see what gives (don't go under the car until it is supported safely)..
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