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Why not turn on something on that battery circuit and then try the switch in either position? The battery systems (chassis and house) are generally left ON when using the RV or connected to shore power. If in storage without shore power, then the disconnect switches will reduce battery drain.
Your question and facts are a bit terse. Usually when shore power is present you can leave both house and chassis batteries connected so they are charged/maintained by your charger/converter. Using a multimeter, test all parts of the 12v circuits to be sure the converter/charger is outputting at least 13v to house and chassis batteries.
If a normal install, the shore power and generator will go through a transfer switch then to the inverter. If when inverting 120 VAC circuits are OK, then the problem must be before the inverter. I would suspect that it is the transfer switch.
Disconnect shore power, make sure generator in NOT running then take a look at the transfer switch these are in a boat or RV but either can lead to vibration problems which can lead to loosening wire connections which can lead to heating and burning. It may be something as simple as a wire coming loose. (Which could be dangerous!) Whether or not the contacts in the relays are OK, check and/or tighten all electrical connections. It's a good idea to check and tighten all electrical connections regularly.
Some transfer switches can be repaired by replacing just the relays. Other units (like mine this year!) will need to be replaced entirely.
Your AC (air conditioner) would only run on AC (alternating current - shore power) so there would be a circuit breaker. Fuses are for DC (direct current - batteries).
That said, 16A is a very odd number for a circuit breaker (or fuse).
Your AC will only run if you are connected to shore power or have a generator. (Very large inverter and a lot of house batteries is technically possible but very unlikely and it wouldn't have been built that way).
If your AC actually draws 16A then being connected to a 30A outlet is fine, I have actually connected mine to a 20A outlet at home to test it but I made sure nothing else was turned on fridge, heaters, water heater etc).
If your plugged in to a 15 amp household receptacle, then an extension cable of any kind or length, then that is likely your problem. An AC unit should have 20 amps of good power available to it. If your using an extension cord of any kind, and it is any less than 12 gauge wire, then that will cause a drop in voltage as well. Obviously the best scenario would be to install and wire a 30 amp receptacle outside your house just for that use, if done often. Take a voltage reading at receptacle, then inside RV, and see how it is probably a little less without even the AC on, then when AC kicks in, or tries to. It may work once in a while, but it's not good for the AC to try and operate on low voltage, which causes a higher amperage draw.
I take it you metered for voltage at the shore power outlet, and at the cord end itself where it plugs into the RV, is there a buck/boost transformer..if so does it have a breaker, are there fuses at the inlet receptacle. Are all GFI outlet breakers in the RV checked for normal position?
I am assuming that the inverter works with other devices. This being the case, i am thinking that the television start up current is drawing too much power too quick for the inverter to handle and this is what is shutting down the inverter.
It sounds as if your inverter has failed altogether. This failure could also be caused by power management having issues.
So far, I know that you have a 2004 Fleetwood Discovery 39L. If memory serves, this is a *30AMP* chassis, with 2 air conditioners, using an intellitec power management panel located above the driver position. If I am incorrect, please advise.
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