503CW with leaf back

1. Slow Shutter Speed

   • Always shoot with plenty of light
   • Shoot with flash (and ensure subject is close enough for the flash to illuminate them!)
   • Use a tripod

2. Unfocused

   • Ensure subject is at least as far away as the minimum focus distance for your camera - 3 feet is a good rule of thumb for many cameras

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/mike_316638c836088218

You will have to use a slow shutter speed, which can cause blurring, or a wide aperture, which will cause a narrow depth of focus. You may need to use both.

This can be coped with by using a mini tripod instead of holding the camera by hand, like this

http://gadgetsin.com/uploads/2011/02/camera_tripod_keychain_1.jpg

On TV shows, they can take a blurry picture and enhance it to crystal clarity. In real life, however, those kinds of miracles aren't possible. In a photo editing program like Photoshop Elements, you can bring up the sharpness a little but you eventually reach a point where the picture no longer looks like a normal picture. The slogan is "garbage in...garbage out"...meaning you can only do so much to what you have to work with.

Both have 70 mm as the widest angle of view, and up to 200 mm as telephoto, while one goes 50% further to 300 mm telephoto range. This means you can zoom in on objects further away than with the 200 mm lens. This is called the focal length of the lens.

The 200 mm offers VR II (second generation of Vibration Reduction) technology, which will allow shooting without a tripod in darker situations than without this technology. This can be a very handy feature if you are in low light situations and don't like to carry a tripod around.

Besides the focal length, a big part of a lens's cost and desirability is how "fast" it is. A lens that has an opening of "f2" is said to be "twice as fast" as one that is "f4". Another way to think of it is that it can allow twice the amount of light into the camera in the same amount of time that an f4 lens can. This means you can shoot in 1/60 sec at f2 as opposed to 1/30 sec at f4 to get the same amount of light in the image. If you don't have a tripod, and you're shooting at 70mm, 1/60 sec is the slowest you can shoot to get a non-blurred image (don't shoot slower than the inverse of the focal length: 70mm = 1/70 sec or 1/60 sec and when zoomed in 200 mm = 1/200 sec - or 1/250 on your camera) The more inexpensive wide angle zooms are often f4.5 - f5.6 and can run several or more hundred dollars. The f2 lenses cost several times more than the f4 - f5 counterparts. This is where the VR technology comes into play. This feature "freezes" the image to allow for an exposure that would be too blurry or otherwise not viewable. You can read a quick article about the differences between VR and VR II for Nikon lenses here. There are others to read, too - so read more than one for more than one opinion.

Another variable, is the coatings. Multi-coated lenses are generally more expensive than single or non coated lenses. Each coating reduces unwanted effects of stray light, etc. that can cause flares on images, etc. You can read more about coatings here.

There are other variables, but those are the main points. You'll have to weigh the differences between the lenses, your intended use for them and cost.

I hope this provided a good starting point for you and good luck!

You can set up the back light correction feature available on the camera menu , reduce the aperture and increase the shutter speed , Additionally the use of correct filters can also help , try not to focus with a back light flashing, avoid the direct but angle it out.

Besides the auto-flash mode, you can select fill flash, flash off, self-timer, and nighttime-view with or without flash.
Press the MODE-SELECTOR BUTTON until the desired indicator appears on the LCD PANEL.
Fill flash and flash off modes remain selected after you take the picture. To cancel the selection, press the mode-selection button or close and reopen the lens cover/flash to return to the auto-flash mode.
Fill flash
When bright light indoors or outdoors comes from behind the subject (backlighting), dark shadows (especially on faces) may occur. Use fill flash to lighten these shadows.

1. Open the LENS COVER/FLASH to raise the flash and to turn the camera ON.
2. Press the MODE-SELECTOR BUTTON repeatedly until the FILL-FLASH INDICATOR appears on the LCD PANEL.
3. Frame your subject within the VIEWFINDER EYEPIECE.
4. Partially depress the SHUTTER BUTTON. When the FLASH/CAMERA-READY LAMP turns off and the fill-flash indicator on the LCD panel stops blinking, fully depress the shutter button to take the picture.

Flash off
When you do not want to use the flash, especially indoors where flash is prohibited, such as in theaters and museums, or when you want to take twilight scenes or distant subjects that are beyond the flash range, or capture the ambiance of existing light, use the flash-off feature. Use a tripod or place the camera on another firm support, and use high-speed film because the shutter speed in these situations will most likely be slow.

1. Open the LENS COVER/FLASH to raise the flash and to turn the camera ON.
2. Press the MODE-SELECTOR BUTTON repeatedly until the FLASH-OFF INDICATOR appears on the LCD PANEL.
3. Frame your subject within the VIEWFINDER EYEPIECE.
4. Press the SHUTTER BUTTON to take the picture.

Self-timer with auto flash
Use this feature to include yourself in pictures.

1. Use the TRIPOD SOCKET to attach the camera to a tripod or place it on another firm support.
2. Open the LENS COVER/FLASH to raise the flash and to turn the camera ON.
3. Press the MODE-SELECTOR BUTTON repeatedly until the SELF-TIMER INDICATOR appears on the LCD PANEL.
4. Frame your subject within the VIEWFINDER EYEPIECE.
5. Press the SHUTTER BUTTON. The SELF-TIMER LAMP will glow and then blink during the last three seconds of countdown.
   • To cancel the self-timer selection before the shutter releases, close the flash.
   • The self-timer automatically turns off after the shutter releases.

Night-view with flash
In this mode, the camera balances the flash and existing light exposure so you can take beautiful pictures of people at sunset or at night. Use a tripod or place the camera on another firm support, and use high-speed film because the shutter speed at night will most likely be slow.

1. Open the LENS COVER/FLASH to raise the flash and to turn the camera ON.
2. Press the MODE-SELECTOR BUTTON repeatedly until the NIGHTTIME-VIEW INDICATOR with flash appears on the LCD PANEL.
3. Frame your picture in the VIEWFINDER EYEPIECE.
4. Press and hold the SHUTTER BUTTON for 12 seconds without lifting your finger. Note: If you remove your finger from the shutter button before 12 seconds, the shutter will time out immediately.
   
5. After 12 seconds, release the shutter button to take the picture.

Night-view without flas
In this mode, you can capture the natural existing light of city-night scenes or fireworks at night. Use a tripod or place the camera on another firm support, and use high-speed film because the shutter speed at night will most likely be slow.

1. Open the LENS COVER/FLASH to raise the flash and to turn the camera ON.
2. Press the MODE-SELECTOR BUTTON repeatedly until the NIGHTTIME-VIEW INDICATOR without flash appears on the LCD PANEL.
3. Frame your picture in the VIEWFINDER EYEPIECE.
4. Press and hold the SHUTTER BUTTON for 12 seconds without lifting your finger. Note: If you remove your finger from the shutter button before 12 seconds, the shutter will time out immediately.
   
5. After 12 seconds, release the shutter button to take the picture.

When shooting dark clothing without flash, use a tripod because the shutter speed will be slower causing the blur effect from camera movement.

Hello parr_alp,
Please keep in mind that when shooting in low light, you will ALWAYS get some amount of blur when you are hand holding the camera unless you use a flash. The only way to increase your shutter speed is to crank up your ISO setting to 800, 1200, 1600, etc. If there is no tripod handy, brace yourself against a stationary object and remember to keep your elbows tucked down near your body when shooting (no sense in holding up your arms, too).
There is no way to increase the ISO limits of your camera while maintaining quality of your images. And once again, you will ALWAYS get a certain amount of blur when hand holding the camera. 
The external flash not firing is an entirely separate issue. This could have to do with your metering, a bad flash, bad connection in the hot shoe, what shooting mode you're in — the possibilities are numerous. The next time your flash doesn't work, write down all the settings of your camera and keep track of them (i.e. shooting mode, metering mode, flash settings, current lighting situations, etc.) You may start to notice a pattern and perhaps we can help you here.
Anyway, happy shooting, and if this response was helpful, please rate it! Thank you!
Jeff

The only real difference between the two is that the 503cxi have a too short, vignetting, mirror. The 503cw have a long, non-vignetting mirror. The vignetting is only noticeable in the viewfinder, and when using lenses 150mm or longer. 
Both bodies will accept winder CW, and both have TTL flash metering.
/Chris

Hi

The camera may have moved when the picture was taken. Try steadily squeezing the button intead of a quick press.

2.Try using a tripod, this could fix the blurred images.

3. faster shutter speed will be needed if you need to hold the camera, and cannot use a tripod.

4. Main reason for the lines could be that the subject is to bright.
A vertical bar of light(red, purple) appears on the LCD monitor/ in the viewfinder This is a normal occurrence in devices containing CCDs (Digital Cameras) and does not mean a malfunction. (This red bar of light will not be recorded when shooting still photos, but it will be recorded when shooting
movies.)

Solution to the last point would be to try and switch of the flash if it is in use. Turn the ISO setting (50, 100, 200) to a lower one as well.

Hope that helps.