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Hi, I just had my KitchenAid Superba freezer door replaced since the wires at the bottom of the door had severed. After replacement, the "beverage center" still did not work. The door switch seemed loose so I bought and installed a new door switch thinking that the door just didn't know that it was closed. Still nothing. The light bulbs were burned out but I thought it was because the fridge thought the door was always open so they were always on. Now after replacing the door, switch and now lightbulbs, the new lightbulbs don't even light up. Can there be a short just in the freezer? The regular part of the fridge seems to be working just fine. This is a 2001 model that I bought in 2002. Any suggestions would be great! Thank you.
KitchenAid sent a guy out to replace the door. But just 'cuz it's a "pro" job doesn't mean it was done. I don't get any response from the bev center. The light won't work, no water and the ice maker doesn't even try. The pro guy said it must be the switch telling it the door was open. The bulbs in the freezer now are definitely burned out but the new one I bought this am doesn't light up. I didn't try to plug it in another area of the freezer-too disgusted. I'll pull it out and check the top. Thanks!KitchenAid sent a guy out to replace the door. But just 'cuz it's a "pro" job doesn't mean it was done. I don't get any response from the bev center. The light won't work, no water and the ice maker doesn't even try. The pro guy said it must be the switch telling it the door was open. The bulbs in the freezer now are definitely burned out but the new one I bought this am doesn't light up. I didn't try to plug it in another area of the freezer-too disgusted. I'll pull it out and check the top. Thanks!
He was only there to replace the door per KitchenAid instructions. It's behind the kick and it is plugged in. I had a question though. There are a total of six wires going to the door from the fridge unit. 1 is ground and 5 are "active" wires. So there are five areas that are wired and one open space because the ground is attached to the fridge itself. When I unplug it and compare the spaces where they connect, it appears that there is a blank space that does not match up. I base this on that there are prongs coming out on one side that plug into the female of the door end. On the very end (square) there is a male but no matching female for it. On the other hand, that wouldn't keep the lightbulbs from turning on inside the freezer, would it? Could this be a fuse issue? Or my luck would be both a door issue and fuse issue...Thanks!He was only there to replace the door per KitchenAid instructions. It's behind the kick and it is plugged in. I had a question though. There are a total of six wires going to the door from the fridge unit. 1 is ground and 5 are "active" wires. So there are five areas that are wired and one open space because the ground is attached to the fridge itself. When I unplug it and compare the spaces where they connect, it appears that there is a blank space that does not match up. I base this on that there are prongs coming out on one side that plug into the female of the door end. On the very end (square) there is a male but no matching female for it. On the other hand, that wouldn't keep the lightbulbs from turning on inside the freezer, would it? Could this be a fuse issue? Or my luck would be both a door issue and fuse issue...Thanks!
My beverage center does not work either. I'm guessing that the wire and/or switch assembly behind the front cover are not making proper contact. I say this because I get the beverage center to work when I press the front cover buttons hard enough as I shut the freezer door. Although it only works sometimes.
What I need help with is figuring out how to remove the front cover so I can access the wire and switch assembly. It is possible that the contact points just need a good cleaning.My beverage center does not work either. I'm guessing that the wire and/or switch assembly behind the front cover are not making proper contact. I say this because I get the beverage center to work when I press the front cover buttons hard enough as I shut the freezer door. Although it only works sometimes.
What I need help with is figuring out how to remove the front cover so I can access the wire and switch assembly. It is possible that the contact points just need a good cleaning.
Kitchen Aid sent out a whole new freezer door to plug into the existing fridge. The only things I transferred from the old fridge door was the inside bins and the handle. Could this just be a fuse issue? (please, please!) Thanks!Kitchen Aid sent out a whole new freezer door to plug into the existing fridge. The only things I transferred from the old fridge door was the inside bins and the handle. Could this just be a fuse issue? (please, please!) Thanks!
The switch was floppy-for lack of a better description- so I bought a new inside door switch and replaced it. Easy, since it has the plug-in harness, but it didn't seem to change anything. While waiting for the new door, there were times I thought I saw light shining through the door seal on the freezer side, indicating that it didn't know it was shut so thought initially that the bulbs were just burnt out from being on all the time until I replaced the switch. That's kinda why I was hoping that for both of them not to be working that maybe they used the same fuse....do fridges even use fuses?The switch was floppy-for lack of a better description- so I bought a new inside door switch and replaced it. Easy, since it has the plug-in harness, but it didn't seem to change anything. While waiting for the new door, there were times I thought I saw light shining through the door seal on the freezer side, indicating that it didn't know it was shut so thought initially that the bulbs were just burnt out from being on all the time until I replaced the switch. That's kinda why I was hoping that for both of them not to be working that maybe they used the same fuse....do fridges even use fuses?
Ultimately, the guy who came out to install the replacement door pulled out one of the connectors in the harness that tells the beverage center to work. My electrician friend came over after I confessed all my fridge troubles and fixed it in less than ten minutes. Some of these "professional" installers need to find other work, I think. The pro just threw his hands up and told me I had another problem he wasn't authorized to fix when he was the source of the problem....go figure. Thanks for your suggestions!Ultimately, the guy who came out to install the replacement door pulled out one of the connectors in the harness that tells the beverage center to work. My electrician friend came over after I confessed all my fridge troubles and fixed it in less than ten minutes. Some of these "professional" installers need to find other work, I think. The pro just threw his hands up and told me I had another problem he wasn't authorized to fix when he was the source of the problem....go figure. Thanks for your suggestions!
you dont need to pull it out just remove the top hinge cover and you should see the molex plug for the wires or it is down behind the toe kick check that first ..Why would he leave if he had not fixed it>??you dont need to pull it out just remove the top hinge cover and you should see the molex plug for the wires or it is down behind the toe kick check that first ..Why would he leave if he had not fixed it>??
did you plug back in the connector at top? does the water disp work?? the refrig lites dont have to do with the door wires just the water and ice dispdid you plug back in the connector at top? does the water disp work?? the refrig lites dont have to do with the door wires just the water and ice disp
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Lights inside a unit have nothing to do with the door ................the door closes the switch....with that siad there is either a 2nd switch in the liner or the single switch controls the door functions along with the lights (so the dispenser wont work when the door is open) has the switch been checked to see if it is good??
IF THE WIRES SHORTED, AND THE DOOR WAS REPLACED,
WAS IT COMPLETE OR WAS THE DISPENSER ASSEMBLY TRANSFERRED TO THE NEW DOOR? IF THE ASSEMBLY ISN'T NEW, THE CONTROL BOARD IN THE ASSEMBLY MAY HAVE BEEN DAMAGED FROM THE WIRE SHORT.
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you can join the spliced wires back together if they are long enough. try to extend the wires by a inch if you can. the harness is built into the freezer door. so you would actually have to replace the freezer door. Those are the only 2 options.
HI, this is an indication of a failed door switch. When the switch fails, the control cannot recognize the closed door signal. Simply replacing the door latch mechanism will solve this issue.
I have the same problem with a 2002 model. Icemaker working but no ice or water comes out the door dispenser. Also the light in the door is not working (i.e. no electricity getting to the door.)
Just had a service call. They told me that the whole door needs to be replaced because the wires that power the door are broken from normal opening and closing of the door. $1500 repair!!!!!!!
(KitchenAid did a POOR design with this frig. Open your freezer door and look toward the floor. On the left side, you will see a rope-like thing coming from the freezer to the door. Everytime this door gets open and closed, it crimps the wires... and thus, eventually they break.) The newer models have concealed wiring.
Two of my neighbors had the same problem with this frig a few years ago and KitchenAid replaced the door at no charge. I just spoke with KitchenAid. At first they told me that I was out of warranty. When I told them this is an obvious design flaw, they told me they would give me the new door since I have 3 other registered KitchenAid products. I have to pay for the repair service, which will be about $200 plus the $75 service call I had today. Better than buying a new frig.. but still frustrating because of the design flaw.
The #1 cause for this problem: The floor beneath the fridge is uneven, causing the refrigerator "box" to be out of square. Adjust the levelers on the fridge bottom to compensate for the uneven floor. That should do it.
I have the same problem, if you take off the cover at the bottom of the unit on the left side you will find 6 wires inside a plastic braid, my guess is that you will find some or all of the wires broken, this is due to poor design. they break by simply opening and closing the door. I have contacted kitchenaid and their response is more or less "tough luck". You may have to replace the entire freezer door, good luck
most common place fora problem is in wire harness under freezer door hinge, within the weblike wireharnes likly to find a broken or split wire. before lookin for it follow harness back a few inches and unplug the harness connector(just incase you hit a live wire you'll short somethin out. its not the easiest place to do it but you would need to remove the screws attaching it to hinge, perhaps cut a plastic wire tie to reconnect wire, straigh wire connector only way, not enough room for wire nut,,,That is if you find a broken wire of course. Oh by the way wire harness not replaceable need toorder complete freezer door , only ohter repair
Look at above diagram. #18 needs to be replace. Trim pops off then there will be several screws. Goodluck...
KitchenAid sent a guy out to replace the door. But just 'cuz it's a "pro" job doesn't mean it was done. I don't get any response from the bev center. The light won't work, no water and the ice maker doesn't even try. The pro guy said it must be the switch telling it the door was open. The bulbs in the freezer now are definitely burned out but the new one I bought this am doesn't light up. I didn't try to plug it in another area of the freezer-too disgusted. I'll pull it out and check the top. Thanks!
He was only there to replace the door per KitchenAid instructions. It's behind the kick and it is plugged in. I had a question though. There are a total of six wires going to the door from the fridge unit. 1 is ground and 5 are "active" wires. So there are five areas that are wired and one open space because the ground is attached to the fridge itself. When I unplug it and compare the spaces where they connect, it appears that there is a blank space that does not match up. I base this on that there are prongs coming out on one side that plug into the female of the door end. On the very end (square) there is a male but no matching female for it. On the other hand, that wouldn't keep the lightbulbs from turning on inside the freezer, would it? Could this be a fuse issue? Or my luck would be both a door issue and fuse issue...Thanks!
My beverage center does not work either. I'm guessing that the wire and/or switch assembly behind the front cover are not making proper contact. I say this because I get the beverage center to work when I press the front cover buttons hard enough as I shut the freezer door. Although it only works sometimes.
What I need help with is figuring out how to remove the front cover so I can access the wire and switch assembly. It is possible that the contact points just need a good cleaning.
Kitchen Aid sent out a whole new freezer door to plug into the existing fridge. The only things I transferred from the old fridge door was the inside bins and the handle. Could this just be a fuse issue? (please, please!) Thanks!
The switch was floppy-for lack of a better description- so I bought a new inside door switch and replaced it. Easy, since it has the plug-in harness, but it didn't seem to change anything. While waiting for the new door, there were times I thought I saw light shining through the door seal on the freezer side, indicating that it didn't know it was shut so thought initially that the bulbs were just burnt out from being on all the time until I replaced the switch. That's kinda why I was hoping that for both of them not to be working that maybe they used the same fuse....do fridges even use fuses?
Ultimately, the guy who came out to install the replacement door pulled out one of the connectors in the harness that tells the beverage center to work. My electrician friend came over after I confessed all my fridge troubles and fixed it in less than ten minutes. Some of these "professional" installers need to find other work, I think. The pro just threw his hands up and told me I had another problem he wasn't authorized to fix when he was the source of the problem....go figure. Thanks for your suggestions!
you dont need to pull it out just remove the top hinge cover and you should see the molex plug for the wires or it is down behind the toe kick check that first ..Why would he leave if he had not fixed it>??
did you plug back in the connector at top? does the water disp work?? the refrig lites dont have to do with the door wires just the water and ice disp
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