My minmax is powered on, heat vent is blowing hot, can see the flams from the view port, can feel the flow of the water threw the tubes...... problem.... pool is not getting hot at all. any sugestions

The heater core may be plugged with rust. Good way to test it is with the engine warmed up put the controls in heat mode and then go under the hood and locate both water hoses going t the heater core. Hold on to both hoses to see if the temperature of both hoses are the same. If not, no water is getting into the core. . If the temp is the same, then control vacuum is not working. There is a check valve in the line to the control head that prevents vacuum fluctuations from moving the blend door when accelerating. Check it.

the thermocouple ot high heat limiter ====the thermocouple when going bad -or not properly on bracket will shut the gas valve off --same with high heat limiter ---before checking these parts feel the air coming out if feels restricted clean the vent tube under the lint trap filter can use a vacuum from front and rear exhaust tube

Can you hear the blend door moving when you change the temp from cold to hot or vice versa? If not, then you need new blend door actuator. Also check the heater core for any blockage. (2 ways to tell....run the car til normal temp, and turn on the heat and feel the hoses by the firewall...if one is hotter than other, there is a blockage inside the heater core. Or disconnect both hoses at firewall, and put garden hose in one of those 2 open tubes and turn on the water...good flow or weak flow coming out of heater core tube? Weak flow means blockage) If there is a blockage, time to get new one.

It blows cold air with the mode selector in what position. If it is on defrost and you have the temp adjusted to full heat than the a/c will be on to dry the air before it hits the windshield, this helps to remove the fog from the windows. If there is no heat coming out the vents than you need to check to make sure the blend door is working. You should hear a distinctly different sound out the vents when you turn the heat from full cold to full hot. Also check to see if the heater core is plugged. With the engine warm you should be able to feel little difference in the temp of the two hoses that go to the heater core. If one is hot and one is cool than there is a flow issue. Either the water control valve is bad, it is not being opened by the HVAC control head, the is a vacuum leak to the control valve or the heater core is plugged. Your vehicle may or may not have a valve that controls the flow of hot water to the heater core.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Keep this principle in mind: Heat, flows INTO cold... When you hold an ice cube in your hand, your hand gets cold because the heat from your hand is flowing INTO the clod ice cube, NOT because the cold is flowing into your hand.

On this particular vehicle (like many modern vehicles), hot water from the engine flows through the heater core at all times, even when you have the A/C on or when you have nothing (A/C, heat or vent) on. The system uses a door that closes down over the air opening to the heater core to keep you from feeling warm/hot air when it is not desired. The reason(s) you feel that the vent air is warm even when the outside temperature is somewhat cool is/could be caused by the following:

First, although as mentioned above, the heater core is restricted from receiving air when you are not commanding heat by the control panel, the heater core ultimately ends up as warm as the engine temperature. This is generally somewhere around 200 degrees F. Because all the air coming out of your vent(s) must pass over the door that restricts air over the heater core, and because the heater core gets so hot, some of that heat is picked up by air passing over the hot door even though it is closed.

Second, the door that restricts airflow from passing over the heater core has a seal around it. After a period of time this rubber (or usually felt) seal deteriorates, allowing some air to actually pass over the heater core. Since the core is hot all the time, some of the air gets heat loaded, producing warmed air.

Third, the door is operated by (in the case of your vehicle) an electric motor which responds gradually/proportionately to the setting you select on the temperature dial. If the motor gets out of calibration (can happen from time to time), if the control head has a 'glitch' and sends an incorrect signal (chronically, usually), or if the electric motor (called an actuator and contains its own little electronic 'brain') becomes faulty, the door may not be closing completely. This symptom can also be caused by a problem with the door itself, where the door gets stuck due to warping of the plastic case, a foreign object preventing it from closing (usually a pen or toy dropped into a vent or defrost opening), or a broken or cracked door hinge.

Last, the vent intake opening, where the 'fresh' air comes into the car on the 'vent' setting, is located just below the windshield on the passenger side. This opening receives its air directly off of the sun-baked, engine-heated hood and because of this the air is never as cool as outside air even on a cooler night.

I hope this answers your question. Many domestic vehicle manufacturers have begun installing heater control valves on their vehicles once again as they nearly all used to have. Note that the fix for most everything I have mentioned here requires removal of the dash of the vehicle or replacement of the control head and therefore is in many cases not worth the investment if it is not an extreme problem (for example, unless the system is stuck on full heat in the middle of summer. Additionally, remember that, if you so desire, manual shutoff valves can be placed in the heater hose lines (please consult a qualified mechanic as water from a vehicle can and will scald and burn you!), allowing you to manually shut off the flow of water into the heater core, thus reducing some of the heat (Readers note that certain foreign vehicles REQUIRE water flow through the heater core at all times for engine cooling and are not candidates for this procedure!).


Parts Of BMW.

remove the vent tube and start the dryer, you should feel hot air, most of the time it is a restriction in the vent tube, sometimes below the lint trap gets clogged too. If no hot air is coming out or very little then you will need to disassemble the unit, here is a website in case you need to take apart the dryer, Tim:

http://www.partselect.com/dryer+open-cabinet+repair.htm

here is another website for heating problems and causes:

http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-heat+repair.htm

2 things are needed to dry clothes. 1 is good air flow. Check to make sure that the dryer vent is not clogged or partially clogged with lint. Also make sure there are no kinks in the vent hose. With the dryer running you should feel good air flow blowing out of the outside house vent. The 2nd thing a dryer needs heat. Check to see that the dryer feels warm to hot when you reach in to tough the clothes. It is possible that the heat element has partially failed. Another thing to investigate is how well the laundry machine is spinning out the water in the spin cycle. This spin cycle is used to get as much water out as possible prior to placing the clothes in the dryer. The wetter the clothes when they come out of the laundry, the longer it takes to dry them.

Replace the vent tubing, sounds like something is stuck or it is crushed somewhere. So replace it for about 5 dollars and see if that works. It should since you disconnect the hose and it drys right away

I would check if your vent to the outside is open. If it is I would check the vacum hose that controls the vent to open and close.

I got a dryer vent kit (Alum) took the extension pipe off and cut the center hole open a little and slid it over the existing elbow. Now when the heater turns on the little flap opens and when the air flow stops the flap closes stopping the air coming down the pipe.