I have 110 volt durapro 18volt dc battery charger, component R14 has burnt out beyond recognition and I was hoping someone could tell me exactly what it is so I can replace it. Thanks

The charger input voltage should make no difference on the output voltage / current, if they are designed to run on that input particular voltage. A 240 volt charger will not work on 110 volt and vice versa. If in doubt check the output voltage of the charger with a voltmeter. Make sure you are getting around 20 volts dc.

Possible suspects are:
1. A severely drained battery.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Faulty main circuit breaker and or connections.
4. Faulty ignition coil and or connections.
5. Faulty spark plug, oil or gas fouled, wrong heat range or service type, wrong gap, loose in the cylinder head, broken electrode or insulator.
6. Faulty spark plug cables, leaking or broken, internal damage.
7. Faulty ignition module, switch, CKP, MAP, CMP, sensor and or any connector in the ignition circuit could have corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets
8. Burnt exhaust valve or air leak in the exhaust system.

The DC18RC are most likely to charged the BL1830 battery, which is the most popular of 18V Makita power tools. It is a Li-ion battery.

And the DC18RC battery charger has two volt 110 Volt and 240 Volt.

The 240 Volt DC18RC charger can replace model DC18RA & DC18SD because of its improved performance and full compatibility with Makita's NEW 'Star' labelled batteries that communicate between the tool, battery & charger. And, it is a fast charger.

It can charge a Makita BL1830 Battery in approx 22 minutes.

But, I do not recommend to convert a makita charger model DC18RC at 110 volt to 240 volts.

The reason is as below:

1. This will void product warranty ! If you follow this mod, you do it on your own risk !

2. There are several comments that described
same model # but with different design and components.
Please beware that this mod might not work on your charger
or worst, will damage it.
Only perform this mod if you know your way around with electronics !

OK. But I don't understand what the problem is.

AC adapter (Charger) is burnt out, by a new one.

Look at the old 'charger'.
Look at the label.

Input: 100 ~ 240VAC/50 ~60HZ.

100 to 240 Volts AC, at 50 to 60 Hertz. (Cycles per Second)

Output:
This is what you need to know.
What is the output voltage of the original charger?

Example;
Output: 19VDC @ 4.63A

19 Volts DC at 4.63 Amps. (Amperes)

Your charger MUST put out 19 Volts. (For the example)
It WILL be DC electricity, so don't worry about that. (Direct Current)

[Your 'charger' is more than that. More than a charger for the laptop battery.
It is also a Converter. It converts the 100 to 240 Volts of Alternating Current, (AC), into a low DC Voltage.

Plus it charges the Battery, WHEN needed ]

Post back in a Comment as to what the exact query is.
Regards,
joecoolvette

Check my previous response to this. I do hope and think it will work as it is exactly my past situations an I've solved them.

you should be able to, but it will eventually burn the battery up. but only if it slips into the charger with no force from you.

Why can't you buy the 230 volt DC18RA charger in europe (amazon.europe country) and use it. I had the same issue yet i burned out the fuse in the 110 volt DC18RA charger because i plugged it into the wall just using an adaptor. Lesson learned. Therefore, my first solution was that i bought a converter from 220V-to 110 Volt. This showed me that my charger was done. So instead of getting another 110 volt charger sent here to Europe from Canada, I returned the converter and have on order a 230 volt input DC18RA charger from amazon.de which has the same 7.2-18V output. I have been told this will work yet the fear, and I don't know why, is that it will burn out the batteries in a year or so. It is difficult getting specific information from Makita, but I hope it all works out. Best of Luck for you

WAS A 110 VOLT CIRCUIT RAN TO IT FROM THE NORMAL UTILITY POWER OF HOME OR BUILDING IT FEEDS?
NORMALLY THIS IS DONE IN A SEPERATE CONDUIT FOR CONTROL WIRES.AND THE FEEDERS ARE IN ANOTHER CONDUIT.
WITH A DIGITAL TEST METER,CHECK FOR 120 VOLTS AT THE BATTERY CHARGER IN THE GENERATOR CABINET.USUALLY THERE IS A RECEPTICAL TO PLUG THE CHARGER INTO.
IF VOLTAGE IS PRESENT AT THE BATTERY CHARGER AND INDICATOR LIGHTS ARE ON, CHANGE METER TO DC AND CHECK FOR 13.8 VOLTS OUTPUT FROM THE BATTERY CHARGER.IF YOU HAVE OUTPUT VOLTAGE TO THE BATTERY,AND IT IS DEAD,CHANGE THE BATTERY..

HOPE THIS HELPS YOU,BEST OF LUCK.....

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00981808000P?vName=Tools&cName=PowerToolAccessories&sName=Batteries%20and%20Chargers&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a

I had the exact same problem. I ordered the ZNR V10 241U part from Dija Key. They are around 36 cents if you buy 10 of them. I cut the old one out and soldered the new one in. I changed the fuse over to an automotive one so the fuse is easier to obtain. I plugged it in and charger works fine.
What happens is a voltage spike either low or high gets recieved by the charger. The fuse appears to be slow blowing and does not stop the spike in time. The spike is stopped by the varactor surge supresser. In doing so, it saves the circuit board so all you have to replace is the fuse and the surge surprsser.