This will not cause a freon leak and it is possible that the door was left open, but to be certain that you don't have a defrost issue, follow the guide below to diagnose any problems. Also the warm walls are normal during compressor run times.
Below is a link that will help you with parts and diagnostic procedures that are specifically tuned to your manufacturers data plate information.
http://www.repairclinic.com/0047_3.asp
If your freezer cools but doesn't get cold enough, it may have a problem in one of several areas. To better understand the proper operation of a freezer, read about freezers in the How Things Work section of our website.
In a self-defrosting freezer, poor cooling often results from a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel inside your freezer. But if you see any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, ceiling, or floor of your freezer, it's a sure sign of frost build-up. And that's a sign of a problem with the self-defrosting system.
Freezers should self-defrost three to four times in 24 hours. But if a component in the self-defrosting system fails, the freezer continues to try to cool, instead. Eventually, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There's still some cooling because the coils are frozen. But with no air flow over the coils, the cooling is quite limited and the freezer isn't as cold as it needs to be.
An easy (though often inconvenient) test of whether the problem is with the self-defrosting system is to remove all of the perishable food from the freezer, turn the thermostat to Off, and leave the door open for 24 to 48 hours. (Keep several towels handy in case the melting frost and ice overflows the drip pan). This "manually" defrosts the freezer. When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the freezer then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of these components in the self-defrosting system:
- The defrost timer. To test this, manually advance to the defrost cycle. The unit should advance itself out of the defrost cycle in about 45 minutes.
- The defrost thermostat (or bi-metal switch). This thermostat allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees (depending on its design). This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on.
- The defrost heater. You can test this for continuity using an electrical meter.
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Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)
"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"
Solid ice from bottom of coil cover on down and covering bottom of freezer. Heard no fan running. Freezer compressor running. No heavy frost accumulation anywhere in freezer. Unit six or seven years old.
Coils are in the sides of the freezer and yes, are warm to the touch when freezer is running.
In looking around the compressor I found a copper tube badly corroded at a reducer junction making me think there is a freon leak. In answer to your question the copper tube you mention is room temperature. You have been most helpful in getting me to look more closely at my problem. Would you agree that low freon could be the problem?
was it ice or heavy frost built up and if it was ice where was it and is the fan running if the auto defrost was stuck on you wouldnt have ice because when it defrost it shuts down the compressor and how old is it
Power out 48 hrs. On 24 hrs. Out again 6 hours. I removed everything from the freezor except ice cream and did not unplug it. The ice cream is soft. There is a red lite, duration 2 hrs. blinking; and I can't get it set for this to go off. Can you walk me through getting it reset to normal freezing setting.
freezer not working
reset freezer
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