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Take it to a local saw shop $10± for 20". It will save you time and headaches. Consider purchase of a spare chain or 2 (about 5 minutes to fabricate with yours as a sample). Ask about a more aggressive chain if you wear PPE while cutting. HTH
Lou
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Sounds like you have hit a nail or some other hard object with just on side of the blade. The teeth on the blade have what it called set. If you hold a sawblade up vertically and look at the teeth say number 1 tooth points one direction and number 2 points the other so tooth 1,3,5,7 and so one point one direction 2,4,6,8 etc. point the other this is what gives you kerf so the blade doesn't bind. Basically what you have are sharp teeth on one side and dull teeth on the other. So what happens when you saw is the blade will pull in the direction of the teeth that are dull. To make a long story short just replace the blade with a new one. Carbide is the best.
damaged teeth on one side not cutting evenly so the good teeth on the other side allows the blade to veer away from a straight cut
Have the blade resharpened
3.if there is a primer bubble 5-10 pushs might say next to bubble
4.IF YOUV\'E NEVER STARTED A CHAINSAW PUT IT UPRIGHT ON FLAT GROUND andput you right foot as far in the trigger handle as you can, put enough weight to stop the bar or chain touching dirt, dirt will blunten a chain very quickly
5.grab the top bar with left hand firmly
6.pull out or raise the choke the whole way.
7.switch on the on/off switch
8.make sure your as much weight on your hand an foot holding the saw and pull the cord fast but never the whole way out or else it will snap over time and when it cant come out anymore it will jerk the chainsaw which can make the bar hit dirt and your chain will get blunt!!! or your leg but that wont blunten the saw
9.keep pulling the cord until you hear the engine fire,
Probably 3-5 descent pulls, it just revs a little loader and longer.
when it fires push the choke back in the whole way
10.pull the cord a few more times and it will start up dont pull the trigger till youv\'e taken the chainbrake off, or youll burn out the clutch. dont forget dont let the chain touch dirt a blunt chain makes cutting really hard on you and the saw.
If you know how its worth stopping and sharpening it as soon begins to lose its edge your back will love you for it, and you get more wood cut. But if you dont sharpen evenly and at the right angles it can be as bad as hitting dirt because it wont cut straight and get stuck
yes you can put an 18 inch bar on this saw. you could even go with a 20 or 24 inch bar as long as it will fit the saw. I wouldn't go much bigger though because it really doesn't have enough power to handle a much bigger bar. And, getting into the dirt makes the saw chain really dull really quickly. Dig around those roots if you don't want to be stuck sharpening your chain every 10 seconds. Take it to your local saw shop and they can fix you right up! Hope this helps...
suggest you sharpen the chain, sounds like it's dull like maybe the log you cut had been fallen on ground for awhile, this causes dirt build up in bark and acts just like cutting Dirt and we all know what that does to your chain...dulls it fast ! I learned from experience I cut an oak tree that was cut down for about 2 years when I got permission to cut it up,needless to say it had a lot of dirt in the bark! hope this helps you !
Hi, That is because one side of the chain is sharper then the other....if you look closely you will see that there are teeth on both sides of the chain... if one side hit a rock and gets dull the saw will cut crooked...
I used a power saw every day for years. Makita is a good brand. We used Milwalkee and Craftsman. My Milwalkee, I used the side of my hand to hit it into place >> I didn't hit it real hard, but the angle setting should move a bit sluggish so you can get to the correct cutting degree using one hand while holding saw in other hand. If the angle setting is floppy loose, you have to use two hands to get it set.
The whole guide assembly should come loose from the motor part. Take it apart. Remove the dust & dirt. Spray a bit of WD-40. It should be good to go. Remember the saw is your friend so cut straight and fast.
It really varies, just like two people can have the same car and get very different gas mileage. It first depends on how many actual cuts are made. Do you let the blade get up to full speed before entering the work? If you force the cut it slows down the rotation speed of the blade which actually causes it to overheat and wear the teeth out faster. It done properly you should get a thousand cuts or more. You have to keep a perspective of how it cut new and how it is now. If it is carbide it can be resharpened.
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