Question about Frigidaire FEF352 Electric Kitchen Range

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Replaced element, oven is still not heating

Stove eyes, timer and oven light all still work but the oven doesn't heat even after replacing the element. Are there fuses somewhere that could be blown? If so, where and how do we change them?

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  • slemert Feb 20, 2008

    Thanks so much. I believe my husband has determined that it is the board that needs replacing. NOTHING in the oven works except the light...not the lower element, not the broil function and not the self cleaning function. Now my next question is, is it worth repairing or should we just spend the extra hundred bucks to replace the entire stove? Bless his heart, my husband really isn't very electronics savvy...and by the time we pay a repairman and purchase the part, it would be less expensive to get a new one...would it not?

    Thanks again for your help...if he does choose to purchase the board, I just might need those step by step instructions!!

  • slemert Feb 21, 2008

    This one already IS low end and you don't know my husband! LOL He is not at all electronically inclined. I'm also wondering about clearanced models from last year....

    We did just discover, however, that the burners aren't working now. The clock and timer both work...the light even comes on when we turn on the burners, but they do not heat. What now???

  • acc15519667 Mar 01, 2008

    I have a Whirlpool Standard Cleaning Electric Range, Model RF315PXKQ; elements went out; replaced; however does not heat. The burners work, all of the lights come on for bake, broil; etc; when you press bake or broil and set the temperature it goes through the motions of preheating; however, does not heat.

    My son-in-law can take his voltage device and touch what is says is "points" and the oven will heat; other than that, nothing. Any help would be appreciated. I did ask the question several days ago and paid $9.99 through PayPal; however, have not yet received an e-mail from anyone with FixYa even though the money was collected.

    Please help.

  • Anonymous Dec 06, 2008

    Two large elements are not heating. Two small ones work fine. I have changed both sockets and heating elements. Still not working! Is there any fuse there?

  • the ray kids
    the ray kids Dec 23, 2019

    I have a whirlpool electric oven. The heating element broke and I have replaced it but it still won't get hot. When I turn it to broil the light comes on and the top gets hit but when I put it on oven the light won't come on and it don't get hot. What do you think the problem is?



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We have a Kenmore stove. The top burners and the oven were not working but the clock still worked. Thanks to the tips here it was a easy fix. It was a corroded and burnt wire on the power cord at the terminal block on the back of the stove. Picked up a Range cord at Ace Hardware for $16.00. Easy to replace. Thanks again.

Posted on Aug 01, 2008


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You may still have a bad Electronic Range Control (ERC). This is your timer that you mentioned. The oven is controlled by the ERC. There is a separate circuit for the BROIL and BAKE functions. Does the BROIL element still work? Or, are both elements not working? You may want to double check all your connections from the element to the control board as well. Sometimes the wire lugs can oxidize and not make good contact. Check the ERC to see if there any obvious signs of failure. Burned components are common. These boards are considered "non-serviceable" and usually requires replacing. You can attempt component-level troubleshooting if you are savvy with electronics. There's usually a basic block diagram that comes with your appliance mounted somewhere inside the operator console or on the back panel of the range.

The ERC for your range would cost in the neighborhood of about $100 - $140 to replace. Prices will vary between model versions and will also depend on where you get it. It is a very simple repair job if you wish to pursue this yourself. I can give you step-by-step instructions if you need further assistance. I hope this helps you.

PS The reason all your surface elements still work is because they are controlled by infinite switches behind the control knobs. There is a separate switch for EACH burner.

Posted on Feb 20, 2008

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Feb 20, 2008

    If you make the repairs yourself, all you have to purchase is the ERC board. Labor costs alone can double the price of a repair job. I looked up the model number you provided and there are several ERCs listed between the price of $100 - $140. I would need a COMPLETE model number (located somewhere near the oven door/lower drawer opening, or on the back of the range). This is not a difficult repair and can be accomplished by almost anyone with a little guidance. I don't know if you've priced appliances lately, but you're not going to be able to replace your current one for a couple hundred dollars unless you go very low end. Just some food for thought...Let me know if you need any further assistance. Glad to help.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Feb 21, 2008

    NONE of the burners are working? say the oven isn't working either. This is odd since they normally aren't fed from the same source (other than the terminal block in the back of the range where the power cord connects to the range), or at the receptacle. It sounds like you have a wiring problem. Could you possibly have the range wired wrong? When you replaced the oven element, did you disconnect anything? It is important to follow the color scheme of the wires on the cord with the wires at the terminal block. They should all match. RED goes to red, BLACK goes to black...etc. Have you checked for the proper voltage at the terminal block? Check across the BLACK and RED wires at the terminal block. You should read 220 VAC. If it is not present, or if it only reads 110 VAC, then you may have a problem with your receptacle, or the cord itself. It could be that you are missing a portion of the voltage you need in order for all the elements to work. ALL the elements require 220 VAC to work. Some of the clocks (or timers) only use a portion of that source voltage as 110 VAC. That may be why your clock works, but none of the elements work. Please check the source voltage and double check that the wiring is correct BEFORE you go making another major purchase. You may just find that you will get that new appliance home and it won't work either. If you aren't savvy with electricity, you may enlist the services of a friend or neighbor that is. Otherwise, you will probably need to hire an electrician. Let me know if I can help.



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