Mabe oven Hi, i have a mabe oven and am told i need to buy a 110V bake element, but aren't all oven bake elements 220V-240V? Do they have a 110V bake element?Thanks.

Nino,

Does the unit have enough power to run (220V), also above you only mentioned convection? So is this the only cycle you have issues with? So, bake and broil work fine? The reasons for the question are they function work together for preheat. If all you elements are having issue, then check source of power to element and relay power up at board for the issue. Did this issue start after a cycle (self clean)? Check breaker for 220V, check supply to oven 220V, check power from relay / clock for 220V. If all this is good, check the elements for 220V (use caution when doing this). Get me more information and we can solve this, I seek to locate the problem by looking for power or lack of.

I am under the assumption you understand electricity and how to work with it. If not, please seek a service person to preform these tests or repair.

Look forward in hearing back from you on the progress.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

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Yes, replace the lower element by first turning off the circuit breaker to the oven (110V is still to half of the 220V element circuit even though the oven setting is turned off), then unscrew the two screws holding the element to the back wall of the oven, then pull the element out (may have to tug it a bit to get the connectors through the insulation), and pull the wire connector clips off the element.

Hello- It sounds like it is not getting 220V. I would first check the breaker and reset it a couple of times to make sure that it is sending 220V to the oven. There could be a problem with the relay board not sending enough voltage to the element. I would also check to see if the convection element is ok, it may share a common 120V wire with the bake element. If you are unsure about testing the elements then I would call a Tech out to test the voltage. The oven may have to be pulled to determine if there are any shorted wires. Good luck and best regards.

you need 220 volts to elements
try checking power to unit if its 220 replace board

Usually no internal fuses, and most of the time the controller is rated for fault interupt current.... age will degrade them though...

How did you change the element without pulling out the stove? is it a 'click/plug' in? might be that the socket is messed up...

You should not have to disassemble the cabinet, should just be a few screws and the unit slides out... sometimes hidden behind small movable pannels..

Peace

I take it when you mention burners you are refering to electrical hot plates?

If you have tested with 110V --even nthough it should be 240V then I can assume that the hob is working.

Possible cause is the regulator.

Regards

Aardvark Repairs

your missing one 120volt leg,check your fuse/breaker panel then again at input terminals at unit and make sure you have a good neutral connection

WB44X0200 BAKE UNIT 208/240V

this bake element should work I would take your old one with you and compare the way it mounts to the connections..

On these older ovens ther is usually always 120 volts on the elements at all times.
If you check across the element ends with it in bake you should read 240V. If not, there is a problem with the control. With the voltage drop you describe, it sounds like you are losing power on one line of voltage coming to the element.
Post back to let me know what you find out or if you have any questions.