What is the easiest way to get the front panel off of my LG front load washer to replace the large rubber drum gasket which ripped? Is it screwed on or pressure fit?

The rubber seal on your washer and similar front loading washers is a relatively easy repair. The seal is held onto the front washer panel and the fixed inside washer drum with separate spring-loaded rings that are reusable. So, don't throw them away! You need to remove the front ring from the front panel before you can remove the front panel. With the ring removed the gasket should be pushed into the washer; noting any drain holes, so that you can reinstall the new gasket in the same orientation. Once the outer ring is removed and the front panel is out of the way, you will have access to the ring holding the gasket to the drum. After the inside ring is removed, the gasket should pull off the fixed washer drum. You are now ready to install the new replacement gasket.

The amount of disassembly of the front of the washer is your option if it interferes with the installation. The door is usually heavy and it is useful to remove it from the front panel. Usually, a couple screws holds it in place. Removal of the front panel may also involve removal of the top of the washer and moving the control panel out of the way so that you can access the screws holding the front panel onto the frame of the washer. The locking latch may have to be temporarily removed but can be left in place if you simply push the front panel out of the way to have access to the inside gasket ring. It is useful to take pictures of each stage of the disassembly process to make sure your reinstall everything as it was.

Installation of the gasket starts with reattaching it to the fixed washer drum flange and then replacing the spring-loaded ring to hold it in place. Make sure the gasket orientation matches the original position. After the gasket is attached to the drum, you can now reinstall the front panel. If you unscrewed the latch mechanism when you took off the panel, now is the time to reinstall it as it can be manually held in place behind the gasket. The door can usually remain off the front panel until installation of the gasket onto the front panel is complete. Now bring the gasket forward and reinstall it on the flange of the front panel; secure it in place with the spring-loaded ring. Your gasket is now reinstalled. Simply reinstall the door and your repair is complete.

Tools needed include a blade screwdriver to help pry the rings off the gasket seal and one or two specialty screwdrivers (usually Torx or Philips) to remove the front panel.

Most door gaskets are available online, most recommended taking drum out to replace, but task can easily be done by removing rubber from hole in machine (end of a spoon helps) then push drum back through the hole and you will see a large clip on rubber to the drum, unscrew clip and pull out rubber, reverse to replace. Good luck.

the rubber will need to be replaced the cost is around $ 150 you can find washer repair service techs under washer repairs in your local phone book


best of luck

Make sure you have plenty of well-lit space to work as well as lay out the parts removed. Remove the cabinet top by removing several screws from the rear, slide it back somewhat, then lift up. Remove the back panel by removing screws along the top rear, then lift up. Pull loose the rubber boot (it's glued to the cabinet front opening as well as to the outer drum face) CAREFULLY from the front panel opening. After uncoupling the drum motor, wiring, hoses, and suspension components, lift out the entire outer drum assembly. The case splits after removing a handful of bolts from the split circumference. Remove the large drum pulley and any snap-rings holding the large shaft in place. The inner drum should pull out of the rear case, but leave the bearings and seal in the case. The inner bearing and seal are prone to failure over time. The official fix is to replace the rear case (with new seal and bearings) for some 300 to 400 dollars. We chose to replace the bearing and seal from a local bearing supply house for about $16. It's still working well after over 10 years. Assemble in reverse order. Use 3M automotive trim cement for gluing the rubber boot back to the cabinet front. Hope this helps!

Hi

Older top load washers use a belt to drive to transfer the energy from motor to drum. However, if the belt slips, stretches, or breaks, it can cause friction and a burning smell, most likely a burning “rubber” smell. The belt is located either from the back access panel or from the underside of the washer. The solution is to replace the belt with a new one. To replace the belt you can open the back lid of the washer

To replace the belt carefully pry up on front washer top to release plastic keeper pins, remove 2 Phillips screws from beneath lower front washer panel, slightly lift upward on panel to release. Now remove old broken belt, push new belt beneath large tub pulley and put belt on small motor pulley. After this push back belt tension /idler arm, start belt on large tub pulley, turn tub pulley by hand to run belt on, release tension on idler arm. Replace front panel and lower top.

Please check this diagram for the part number F28(drive belt)--




Please post back for any further assistance.

Thanks
Daniel

Hello, Remove the door hinges and plastic covers on the unused hinge screw holes on the opposite side of the door opening (door is reversible, so there are places to mount hinges left and right). Front panel will now snap out at top and lift off lower spring clips. One screw on each side will now release top panel and it will hinge up. Prop up with broom handle or something. Now you can get at everything. Rubber gasket is held onto drum with a cable loop and very strong spring. It rolls off the lip easily to disassemble but is VERY difficult to get back on without special tools or at least two people. Door side of rubber gasket is easy in comparison with rubber tabs inserted into slots and working the gasket into a groove. Hose clamp at bottom of rubber gasket to connect drain hose.

Thanks

Typically the tear comes from something getting caught on the rubber boot or bellows as it is called on this machine. Or if a pen is left in a pocket it can cause a hole.

The bellows for your model is part number 8182119 and typically runs about $80.00

Here is a link to parts break down showing the bellows # 5 on this diagram. It is not hard to replace but you have to be fairly mechanically inclined. It is held on by a spring clamp in front and a large screw clamp to the tub.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/showSubComp.pd?imageUrl=http%3a%2f%2fc.searspartsdirect.com%2flis_png%2fPLDM%2fK0503012-00002.png

If you check the door sal and there is any play in it then it needs replacing. Mine had two saggy indent bits and needed changing..no more ripped clothes

Removed the top and Front reinstalled the counter balance. the rubber gasket has a 1" tear in it which I patched with a rubber tire patch for now. Two of the locking nuts for the leveling of the machine were loose it went out of level causing the machine to rock and probably caused the counter balance to loosen up. My daughters come in from collage and over load it on weekends which adds to the machines demise. All have been warned.

probably some rubberize installation are screw to the case or body/ you only need pollout are screw driver philips or flat .