Temp control stopped working properly

Are you sure that you have 220 volts to the oven. It is possible for a breaker to go bad and conduct power only on one leg and some things on the appliance will still work.
Electronic controls on ovens can be damaged by power surges caused by lightening strikes. That could be the problem but after looking at the circuit diagram of the panel it doesn't look like there are electronics that should be damaged by a surge.
Here is a link to the user manual.
Download Manual Pdf

Link to Maytag Same as Whirlpool
Search Results for Appliance Models matching CWE4800A

Good Luck.

ello & Welcome to FixYa

This indicates an open/shorted oven temperature sensor and to solve this problem the sensor needs replacement. If you wan to be sure before replacing the sensor then you can test it with a voltmeter for around 1100ohms....if it reads more then this then it needs replacement however, if the reading is around or less then 1100ohms then it is the control board that needs replacement. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

How many active terminals are there at the main terminal block in the new oven. Is this a single or 2 phase supply. Have you connected the active supply to all active terminals. If only half of the oven is working it sounds like it could be a problem at the terminal block. If so, you need to put a loop or bridge wire to the 2nd active terminal.
If all this was done correctly when connected the only other thing it could be is the electronic clock needs to be set to manual mode for the oven to work correctly.

When I turn on my Maytag performa using the "bake" function, everything looks ok on the display, however the temp. never rises above 100. I've tried "bake" and "convect", and neither one work. "Clean" doesn't work either. The oven will lock, and display shows that it's heating up, but temp. never rises.
However....."broil" feature works just fine.
Please help.

Ouch...sounds like the control module is blown. Thats the electronic timer. I've known this happen on several occasions. Bad luck!

The lighting has sent a surge though the control board, in return, causing a short within the main control circuits.

The EOC(electronic Oven Control) is unable to send the unlock command. it is shorted at this time. replacing this failing oven control(EOC), will restore the normal functions of this unit.

Normally, you would recive a door lock malfuction error code in this case to signal a door lock mechinism failuer but, in this case, the control has took a direct hit and, it is unable to fuction correctly.

you can replace touch pad and not very hard to do,you may want to replace control board also.

If hitting clear/cancel won't clear it try unplugging and then plug it back in. My guess is the oven control is bad. Here are the fault codes for this model.

Failure
Code Condition Check/Repair F0 or F1 Failed transistor in control If code cannot be cancelled, replace the Electronic Range Control (ERC) or touch pad F2 Oven over temp - exceeded 590F with door in unlocked position or 990F with door locked If actual temp condition occurred, look for welded relay contacts or high resistance connection or any cause in the oven temperature sensor circuit F3 Open oven temperature sensor circuit Measure oven temperature sensor circuit at oven temperature sensor (should be approx 1100 ohms at room temp); check for cut or pinched wire or loss of contact F4 Shorted oven temperature sensor circuit Same as above; check for melted connector or both leads shorted to ground F8 Component failure within Electronic Range Control (ERC) effecting temp processing circuits Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC) F9 Problem with door lock circuit such as pinched wire between Electronic Range Control (ERC) and door lock switch Check wiring and test operation of switch

was there a lightening storm (that may have zapped the micro-controller chip) prior to the problem?

There is a thermo fuse located behind the back panel of the oven. If the oven appears to be working but is not actually heating then this is the cause. The oven will have to be removed from the wall, power to the oven shut off at the main breaker and the back panel removed. the thermo fuse is just to the left and up from the center of the convection fan. It has 2 wires connected to it.