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You need to bleed off the air. There should be a bleed port on the housing to do this. If that does not solve the pump coming back on, it could be air in the pressure switch.
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I'm not sure which pump fails after 15 minutes. Is it the main pump or the booster pump? The main pump works fine but when the booster pump is activated, one of them fails. What happens if you leave the main pump on and only activate the booster pump? Will the booster pump run indefinitely as well? They both share the same supply line. What have you checked so far? How old are both pumps?Do you pumps sound normal? Do the pump motors get abnormally hot? Any recent repairs or new symptoms? Is there a shut off valve on the supply line that has been turned/moved? Please write back with more information.
ICE is an issue with the cold water temperature. I'm guessing that you filled the spa with cold water, or turned the spa off and the water cooled right down. In ICE mode, the spa turns on the pumps and keeps running until it's satisfied that the water is not going to freeze, this can take some time.
DRY is an error that occurs when there's insufficient water in the heater, or a lack of water flow through the heater. This is commonly caused by either an air lock, a low water level, or a problem with the pump.
Is the pump circulating the water through the heater as per usual? If not, can you hear the pump running? If the pump is running but there's no water flow then suspect an air lock.
To remove an air lock, you can slightly loosen the pump union, or heater union to release air from within the system, much like when you have to bleed a radiator. As soon as water starts to come out of the union tighten it again. If you have an air lock you should hear the air escaping from the union prior to the water starting to leak out. If you heard air, that's great, try the spa again.
You may have an air lock try using machine on and off 5seconds each time sow that you give the pump time to regain the water.
If not try and inject water your self from the rare instead of water tank some time when you get air lock it is removed alone by just simply leave it over night after you had tryed the water pump because the air lock is removed alone slowly.
What do I do if my pool/spa pump is loosing suction or prime?
Answer:
by Osko Pool n SpaPool Pump Losing Suction or Prime
If your Swimming Pools Filter system looses Prime, it is caused by one of the following conditions.
Note: The lost of suction/prime is caused a leak which in turn sucks air into the system. The lost of suction/prime will be anywhere from the Main Pool Skimmer(s) to the Pool Pump. It will NOT be from the Pool Pump to the Pools Main Return(s).
1) First make sure that your water level is high enough so that the skimmer is not sucking air.
2) Check the Pump Pot Housing Lid Seal and be certain that its completely sealing and is not
Sucking air into the system. Check the lid for cracks. If either condition is true, replace the Pump Pot Lid Seal and/or entire lid
3) Check all fittings, clamps and hoses from the pools skimmer to the Pools Pump Pot Housing for wear, tightness and leaks.
4) Check Pool Pump Pot Housing for cracks.
If everything aforementioned in good working order, the next thing to check is the Pump Pot Housing Main Seal and the Pumps Impeller and finally the pump.
5) While the Pool Pump Motor is running, carefully inspect the area where the Pump Pot Housing attaches to the Pump Motor. See if there is any water leaking. Next, spray the area with water and see if the water is sucked into the Housing. If so, your Main Seal is damaged.
6) Disassemble the front half of the Pump Pot Housing from the back half and inspect the Pump Motor Impeller. (This is a high suspect part). See if there is any sign of wear or breakage. (This happens over time from debris in the water passing over the impeller). If so, your Impeller is damaged.
7) Re-inspect the Pump Pot Housing Main Seal by standing the partially disassembled upright, with the Pump Motor towards the ground. Pour water over the impeller and into the cavity. See if the water leaks thru to the outside of the Pump Pot Housing. If so, your Main Seal is damaged.
8) Remove the cover from the rear of the Pump Motor. Using a large standard blade, (straight), screwdriver or wrench... turn the main motor shaft. Listen for grinding and/or rumbling and feel for any restrictions while turning. If you hear or feel either, your bearings and/or brushes are damaged.
If everything seems to be in good working order, then you need a new pump... not just replacement parts
For more FREE DIY Faqs, go to:http://www.oskopoolnspa.com/index.php?main_page=faqs_all
For more FREE DIY Faqs, go to:
http://www.oskopoolnspa.com/index.php?main_page=faqs_all
Is the pump running or just humming? If it is running and you do not have water flow then you may have an air lock in your system.The way to solve the air lock is to fill the tub with water and turn on the pump. Once you have done that then loosen the pump union on the top of the pump (discharge) until you get some water coming out. If that was the problem then the jets will start churning out water
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
Position the lock carrier into the service position as follows:
Remove or disconnect:
Front bumper.
Any wiring or connector that would inhibit locking the carrier.
3 quick-release screws on the front noise insulation panel.
Air guide between the lock carrier and the air filter.
Retaining clamps for the wiring harness at the left side of the radiator frame.
No. 2 bolts and install Support tool 3369 or equivalent.
Remaining bolts and pull the lock carrier out to the stop.
To secure the lock carrier, install the appropriate M6 bolts into the rear of the lock carrier and fender.
Remove or disconnect
Negative battery cable.
Accessory drive belt, then the engine driven cooling fan.
Coolant.
Clamps for the coolant hoses at the water pump.
Intake air duct between the intake manifold and the charge air cooler.
Generator mounting bolts and slide it forward.
Wiring from the generator once it is removed.
Unbolt the following supports and brackets for the generator, power steering pump, and engine cooling fan:
Intake manifold support
Support for the engine torque bracket
Brace to the cylinder block (remove completely)
Remove or disconnect:
Brackets for the generator, power steering pump, and engine cooling fan, positioning the brackets to the left side using a piece of wire
Coolant hoses from the pump and thermostat housing
Coolant pump housing from the timing belt cover
Coolant pump mounting bolts, then the pump
Impeller housing from the pump housing
To install:
Fig. 1: Exploded view of the water pump, housing and related components — 1.8L engine
Fig. 2: Assembly bracket with water pump mounting bolt tightening sequence — 1.8L engine
Using a new gasket, mount the new coolant pump to the pump housing. Mounting bolts: 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
Using a new gasket and O-ring, install the coolant pump. Mounting bolts in alphabetical sequence: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Tighten the coolant pump housing to the timing belt cover to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
Install or connect:
Coolant hoses to the pump and thermostat housing.
Brackets that were removed. Mounting bolts: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Wires to the generator, then install the generator.
Air intake duct between the intake manifold and the charge air cooler.
The remaining steps are the reverse of the removal.
Fill the engine with coolant
Fully close all power windows to stop, operate all window switches for at least 1 second in the close direction to activate the one-touch opening/closing function
After installing the lock carrier, check the wiring for proper routing near the cooling fan
Do you have a tank with a air bladder inside or do you have one with a air valve on the side?
I suspect you have a tank with an air valve. If that is the case, yours sounds like a classic case of "air bound". There is the possibility that you have a Blue tank with a air bladder inside trhat does not have a air valve on the side - but lets talk about the classic tank now.
Your pump is "short cycling" because there is very little air cushion at the top of your tank. What you need to do is get more air into your tank. Turn off your pump. Turn off the main water valve. Open the tank drain. Press in the (probably) black ball on the side of the air valve. Let the water all drain out. When the tank is empty, let go the black ball, close the tank drain, turn on the pump. When it stops, open the water main to the house.
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