Where do i take my laser to fix the glass.i also need to get it calibrated?

There is no "calibration mode".

To check calibration set the tool on a fixed surface. turn it on. let it autolevel, then mark the wall with a pencil at a distance of 15- 20 feet. rotate the laser on its axis 90 degrees, and see if it self levels to the same line. if it does not, send it to hilti, you'll have it back in a week.

There are no less than 7 screws involved in maintaining the laser plummet alignment. Make sure the 2 on the side are snug, but not tight as it will damage the plummet and the single standard screw on top is secure as well.
The 4 hex set screws on the top of the plummet mount are for calibration. Set the instrument up on a tripod and turn the plummet on. mark the position of the laser on the floor, then turn the instrument 180 deg horizontally. if the laser is no longer in the same place i recommend getting it professionally calibrated. 6 of the 7 screws involved affect the calibration, and it is not a job for the light hearted. As well, if those screws backed out, then likely more (maybe unseen) are loose as well.
I can strip down, clean, lubricate and reassemble and calibrate one of thoes in a couple hours, but it has taken me many years to get to that point.

Unreadable disc errors or open tray errors are commonly fixed by pot calibration or laser assembly replacement. Pot calibration is the cheaper of the two, and if it fails and burns out the laser, well, replacing the laser would be the next step anyway.

You shouldn't calibrate the pot without an ohms reader simply because you can burn out the laser, but you CAN wing it. I'd advise doing some searching on DVD Drive pot calibration for the Xbox 360, simply because I don't know which drive you have so I can't help identify anything for you.

I will say you have to disassemble it down until you see the motherboard, take out the DVD drive, open it up, and then calibrate the pot with a very small screwdriver. The location of the pot depends on your drive. If this fails, then buy a new laser assembly and replace it in the drive.

p.s. pot calibration is fancy terminology. There are basically 2 "screws" inside the drive, 1 pot is the DVD/games, and the other is CD. You'll want to very slightly tweak the DVD/games pot until it works, testing with each tweak. You barely need to adjust this "screw" for a significant change to happen. Also, always test with a DVD and then a game. It will read a DVD before a game.

You need to clean the glass real well, the narrow one if you fax from feeder and the big glass if you fax from flatbed. After cleaning you power off and on so it will calibrate to clean glass. Test by making a copy, the copy will look just like a sent fax will look. If you still have streaks you may need a new CIS scanner, around $60.00

You need to check real close for scratches or dirt both on the narrow glass and the white bar above it. Also after cleaning you need to power down and up so that it will calibrate to the clean glass. The stripe will remain until after it calibrates again and you do that with a power cycle.

sure, but wii dvd drive is very hard to adjust laser and calibration fixes...it´s very sensitive, you must search for youtube to see calibrating videos for Wii....take a look in the motherboard to see if there is any chip or components loose inside the wii...Good Luck!!!

Either the glass is scratched or the sensor has gone bad that is used to scan the image.  Are you using a document feeder or laying it flat on the glass?  If you are laying it flat on the glass then it is most likely a sensor going bad.  If you are feeding it through the document feeder it could be that the feeder itself needs to be cleaned, or the paper path through the feeder.
If it is the sensor you will need to send it out for repair.  There may be an option to re-calibrate the scanner in the software, that may help if the sensor has just degraded and not failed.
I hope that helps.

Sounds like you figured this out on your own. I calibrate my own DW073 regularly without any fancy gadgets. I use the calibration check procedure in which the unit is placed about midway between fixed objects 100' apart.

These have a front and back and sides, so first you mark where the laser hits facing front to back at your targets. Then turn it 180 deg. relevel and resite. If the difference between the new and old marks is not the same then I turn the adjuster to halve the inconsistency and once that is accomplished, tweek the adjusting screw at the end of the level vial. (Because if you have adjusted more than the tiniest bit, the bubble will no longer display as level. So having established level, or closer to it, the adjustment here is actually to bring the relevant bubble vial back to level rather than assume they are level and adjust the physical beam mechanism (unlike the old physical sight levels where you adjusted the actual optics -- a little more like adjusting a rifle scope). Then you repeat for the side to side vial.

Anyway sounds like you are set so I posted this for anyone who happens to find this thread and is looking to field calibrate their DW073, e.g. don't have time or money to get it done in some shop.

I also wanted to post an add on question. Did you figure out how to adjust the "cone error", i.e. the accuracy of alignment of the twin lasers. They appear to have allen set screws that lock their adjustment, and maybe they are then reaimed by using a slotted screwdriver on the brass ring surrounding the laser. Maybe these are made eccentrically or slightly beveled so turning the laser reaims.

So far, my cone has stayed within the specs of 3/32" at 25' in the manual. But I'm seeing two lines at maybe 150' out. Probably that is close enough for gvmt. work, and I may find the adjusment so sensitive that I can't really get it any closer. But I'd at least be interested to know the method for adjusting the cone error.

Thanks,

Brian

are copies blurry? from the glass or printing? clean the glass, and optics. and the machine could probably use a calibration..

hi the problem with this is replacing the laser is the easy part and more or less anybody can do it but to get the new laser to work you need to calibrate it this is what the osciloscope is for it needs to be connected to certain parts of the board and then take readings from the scope as your adjusting the laser you cant do this without it as you can damage the new laser if you get it wrong.
Now you can fit the laser yourself thats the easy part but the scope costs about £1000 or $2000 so more than a new ps3.
If you can buy a working laser out of a damaged ps3 thats over heated then you should find it will work as sonn as you fit it in but new ones need calibrating.
Try this so you get some idea of the procedure with the scope use your search engine and type in:
how to calibrate ps3 laser
or
how to calibrate ps2 laser
this will then bring up loads of sites that show you how its done with the scope.
Its not worth doing it without the scope as you will damage the laser beyond repair but buy the new laser and get someone to fit it and calibrate it for you as that would be the cheapest sollution let me know if you need further assistance ok