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Anonymous Posted on Jan 03, 2010

Washer starts to spin up then trips breaker

Washer was spinning up and draining water then tripped breaker. I hand drainned and checked pump it was free and clear. I turned it to spin and it ran for 10 seconds and tripped breaker again. is it motor or transmission?

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  • Master 1,218 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 03, 2010
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Joined: Oct 10, 2009
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Good day,
Not the transmission. The motor could be stalled by a defective transmission, but the motor would trip off on it's own internal long before the home breaker.
Sounds like a short in the motor itself. But ......
There is Murphy's law.
Your home breaker might have become so weak, it IS the problem.
You really need an amp probe to check the washers draw, at the circuit breaker panel.

If you cannot do that and are comfortable dealing with electrical, you can swap equal value breakers, to be sure.

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I have a ge washer that trips the breaker when it starts to agitate. I've replaced the belt but still trips breaker it spins and drains on that setting put soon as it fills,starts the breaker goes

Once a breaker "trips", it is more-likely to trip the next time at lower voltage/wattage levels. Hire an electrician to replace the breaker.
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Moffat washer (mcch6110hww GE?) trips breaker shortly after start of cycle. Can this be repaired?

Sounds like your drum brake is engaging. Fixing it is fairly cheap. YouTube it and watch a few videos on how to do it if your fairly handy.
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Water keeps clicking of after 5 sec same with draining water and drum wont sprin

Hi Robert.

If the machine fills with water and cycle starts but it does not spin and drain, then possible problems are drain hose, drain filter, pressure switch and less frequently pump.

Before advancing to spin the timer board performs a test on drain part of the cycle, stops the drain and checks the door lock. Drain system, pressure switch and lid switch are all parts that if defective may cause no spin.

The first part to be tested is the drain system. This must be checked regardless of the fact that the pump is working. If there is blockage, residual water in the drain system or water flowing back from drain hose may cause the washer not detecting that drain is complete, and not advancing to spin.

Disconnect power and check the drain system, accessing drain filter and hose connected to the drain pump.
In most front loaders this is accessed removing the trim at the base of the front side of the appliance (under the door), and rotating the filter cap counterclockwise. The filter should be located behind the trim at the base of the washer.
Top loader usually offer access to pump either from back or from the bottom of the appliance. In some case (eg.Kenmore top load) you have to lean the machine forware to gain access to the bottom part of the unit, where the pump is located.

After opening the pump hose cover be prepared to collect a good amount of water. Keep a container at hand. Ensure that power is not connected before starting.

Also double check drain hose at the back of the appliance, and check that the elbow height is as prescribed in manual. Incorrect drain hose settings may result in syphoning, that means water is flowing back from drain hose into the washer tube. This may result in no spin.

After performing the check on the drain system test washer again. Sometimes removing eventual blockage in drain pump may fix this kind of problem.

If the pump is draining, but drain doesn't complete, and if there is no blockage in drain lines, a parts that may be causing the no-spin problem are pressure switch and door latch switch.

The door latch switch is checked by electronic control before advancing to spin. The door switch is tested running a cycle with the door switch contacts jumped. If the model has a lock motor more testing is needed. In that case the switch is tested ensuring that the lock motor impedance reads according to specifications and energizing the lock motor.

If the drain stops always at same point and cycle does not advance replace also the pressure switch. The pressure switch detects water level and determines when drain is over and when to advance to spin. This part is difficult to test in full, the part is not expensive and it is usually replaced without testing. Pressure switch is a common failure causing no spin. If drain is OK, then either pressure switch or lid switch/lock system is usually responsible.

If the above is OK , with top loaders you need to add to the list the problems related to motor and transmission. In front loaders, check problems related to motor and motor control unit. Such problems will be near to the end of the troubleshooting list. Check them before deciding to replace the electronic control.

Always disconnect power cord or trip the circuit breaker before performing maintainance operations.

If you need to contact a qualified technician, call the phone number listed on the owners manual.

To find parts give me the model number or click on the link below, select distributor and enter your model number.

Parts and diagrams

Regards.

Ginko
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Spin cycle trips house circuit breaker on my GE top loading washer

Hello,

The very likely reason the breaker trips only on spin is because the tub bearing is locked up on the washer since it is locked up its causing way excessive friction at the motor which causes the breaker to trip.Can you rotate the tub by hand or does it seem really hard to rotate by hand indicating that the tub is ceased up due to the tub bearing??


GENE
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I have an Admiral LNC6760B71 model and it just quit working (lost power). We checked the breaker and it was tripped so we fixed that and also plugged it into a different outlet just to be sure, but still...

Hello,
A leading cause of that is the drain pump has seazed up.When it has seazed up the motor still trys to turn it but is having a real rough time,so it trys even hard to the point the motor overheats due to drawing excessive amprage where it ultimatly trips the circuit breaker.By getting to the back of washer if able and removing the small panel on right side and removing the clips that hold drain hose up to top of cabinet,the drain hose could be pulled through that small panel and holding it a low point the water in washer will drain by gravity, use a couple of buckets to catch water. After water is drained reinstall drain hose to where it normally goes,the washer could be tipped up so the control panel is resting on the wall, the drain pump will be on the right side,you could turn the pulley by hand and see if it turns easily,if any resistiiance or if the pulley doesn't turn at all,the pump& possible based on the condition of it the belt will need to be replaced.

I hope my answer will help you to resolve your washer trouble,
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With the symptoms you describe i would suspect a intermittent heater element fault as you are getting earth leakage current which is tripping the whole supply rather than a current overload which would just trip the socket circuit breaker. Get the heating element checked over first as this is the most likely cause.
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NO Agitator, draining or spin

Since the breaker did not trip i am going to assume that the washer stopped because the motor overload switch tripped or contacts burnt. Was there any smell of any burning (electrical burning)?. It could have stopped because a contact on the timer got burnt too. Have a look also at the water level swirch

Regards
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