HEF33 flame not turning over, power OK and heater working, all lights on. Flame speed at stop and will not move.

Typically the flame effect is accomplished when a motor turns a rod with polished metal strips on it. The strips then reflect the light onto the back of the glass. The the rod rotates, the reflection moves giving the effect of the flames moving. If the lights work on your unit then the motor has most likely stopped. It would need to be replaced. A quick internet search turned up nothing for that company so you may need to go back to the store where you purchased the unit to get the part. Once you have the part, you will need to disassemble the unit. Some units are simple (like removing the fake logs) and some units are more involved (like removing access panels from the back or bottom).

Just been thru a similar problem with my Climate Technologies Vulcan High Efficiency Ducted Gas heater which in this case is installed under the house. This heater is about 7 years old and I have previously (2 years back) refurbished the controller by replacing the main power supply electrolytic filter capacitors.

I also had a communication problem with the Touch pad Thermostat which in the end required replacing the entire touch pad as one of it's voltage regulators had gone intermittent (Touch pads are available on E-Bay). To operate the heater while the touch pad was out of commission I installed a manual switch between the heat contacts on the heater controller. Closing the switch causes the heater to permanently run if it has no thermostat. Once communication with the touch panel was restored we were able to try and find the intermittent heater fault.

Again I have been getting Fault Code 08 "Gas Interruption" however the heater was lighting OK and then going out after about a minute or so. In the end I found 2 distinct heater faults.

Fault 1 was the flame sensor where the weld between the wire and flame probe rod had broken but it was still touching. This meant it was sensing Flame OK and then later would go open with expansion as the temperature rose. I fixed this by replacing the Flame Probe with a new one sourced from Reece HVAC.

At this point I celebrated thinking it was fixed!

Fault 2 after the flame sensor issue was cleared the fault still persisted but slightly less often.
The heater was cycling 3 times to get going and then locking out, requiring a reset from the touch thermostat or heater controller board. Sometimes the heater would achieve a onging burn for a long period, and other times just locking out after 3 tries.

Careful observation of the flame, through the observation holes after it lit, showed correct flame sensing but as soon as the nominal 65C duct temperature was reached the combustion fan (modulates) throttles back too far and the flame goes out, the flame sensor switches off and gas valve is then closed. The pressure differential across the burner manafold controls the Gas flow rate so if the combustion fan goes too slow the flame goes out due to lack of gas.

On the control board there is a potentiometer marked "MIN GAS RATE" this needs to be tweaked clockwise until the burner remains lit when the nominal 60-65C duct temperature is reached. Don't turn it up too far or the heater may not throttle back enough and end up going out on overheat.

Once a stable flame is achieved when throttled, try the heater in the economy mode which uses a lower recirculating fan speed and check the flame still remains lit. My problem was most obvious in the Econ mode.

Hope this helps someone else - It took me over a year to solve this one. NeilP

Heater keeps turning off and on every few seconds

if flame not flickering and you can see the globes lighting flame its the fan that moves the ribbons is faulty unless it has fuse to it which may have blown, but how the flame works is by globes lighting through ribbons that are moved by a fan to give a flicker effect unless its rotating glass wheel like some, that turn with the globes behind that give you a flickering effect its always better with electrical to have an electrician look if it was the globes yes that is an easy replace but to change a fan or rotating glass wheels

Hi,
Yes it is okay... I have often done just that. The thermocouple just needs to be in the flame when it is on and in case the pilot goes out it shuts down the gas valve.
The heat/cool cycles often move the metal around a bit causing the thermocouple to come out of the flame. It is best if the flame is just hitting the tip of the thermocaouple rater than down on the middle somewhere. That will destroy the thermocouple rapidly.

I hope that this will help you to solve your problem!

Thanks for using Fixya!!

Heatman101

You can sand the flame sensor but it sounds like another problem. Sounds like a limit switch or something in the control circuit, You need to have a service tech look at this. Ask for free estimate on repair. I have worked on hundreds of these units and they are sometimes tricky to work on. Lenox has come up with new controls for the whisper heat furnace to replace the old ones. If the flame sensor is bad the unit will try to light a few times and lock out and you ahve to kull power to the furnace to reset. If this is whats happening clean the sensor nd you should be ok If not you need help from a service tech.Rus

This just sounds like a couple of problems. First, your blower is designed to only turn on once the heat exchanger heats up, so the flame will be on for a minute or two before the blower starts. it sounds like your blower is cooling down the heat exchanger too fast and causing it to shut off so it can warm up again...check blower speed for heat, it should be the lowest speed (black wire). Blue=medium speed, red= high speed. second problem could be your flame sensor rod is calcified, you just need to locate this and clean it off with some fine sand paper.it is located in the flames near the burners. Also change your filters, for proper air flow through your heat exchanger.

rinnai, toyostove and monitor heaters are basically all the same. first you have to make sure your fuel valve is open at the tank. next you have to reset the tank lockout on the sump. then set your set point higher than your room temperature. now press on. the unit will go through a 300 second purge cycle. the pot heater should turn on when the purge cycle starts. after the purge cycle the fuel pump turns on and pumps fuel into the pot. when it vaporizes the igniter lights it. when a flame is detected the flame rod says ok to keep running so the fuel pump shifts into high speed. when plenum temperature reaches a preset level the fan turns on.

Yes, there is a reset button. I have the same problem but the reset button doesn't do anything. I do have power but the flame does not come on.

basically, on the bottom of the fireplace, there are 2 screws on the sides, 3 on the back, take them off, lift bottom (it wont come off, so be careful not to bend it) there are 3 christmas light type bulbs, you can find them at any hardware store. Just replace them. Problem solved.

If the flame is standing still, i assume the motor is burnt out. or the belt is off.