I am having trouble when my camera is on manual and i need to get the meter to zero and change the aperture number, but the green numbers and meter are blurry when i look into the lens to get the meter zeroed. how do i get it so that the green numbers are not blurry anymore.

the background blurs when the aperture number is low (like 2.8 or so) one needs to either set the aperture priority such - and let the camera select the iso and the shutter speed - or go manual and set this yourself, considering the meter readings to get a balanced image.

This lens lacks the electronics to communicate with the camera. You need to set the aperture ring on the lens to its smallest opening (largest f/number). You control the aperture from the camera body, the same was as on a lens without an aperture ring.
For the camera, you need to set it to the Manual exposure mode and set the shutter speed and aperture yourself. You also won't get any metering assistance from the camera. You can review the pictures and/or use the histogram to get the proper exposure, or use a separate light meter.

The lens is supposed to be locked at its smallest setting (largest f/number). You can control the aperture from the camera body, the same was as on a lens without an aperture ring. For example, in aperture priority mode (A), simply turn the command dial. In manual mode (M), hold down the exposure compensation button while turning the command dial.

That was for a lens with the electronics to communicate with the camera. If you have a purely mechanical lens, you must shoot in manual mode and control the aperture by turning the ring on the lens. There should be a small orange slide near the aperture ring, Slide it toward the front of the lens to unlock the ring.

If you need more help, please feel free to reply to this post. Please specify the lens when you do.

Set the aperture on the lens to its smallest setting (largest f/number) and set the camera to the Manual exposure mode. You have to meter manually and control the aperture from the camera as on a lens without an aperture ring.

It depends on the lens.

If you're using a lens with an aperture ring, simply set the exposure mode to Manual or Aperture priority and change the aperture by turning the aperture ring on the lens. In Aperture priority the camera will set the shutter speed appropriately, in Manual you have to determine the appropriate shutter speed. If you want to use such a lens in Shutter priority or one of the Program modes, you must set the aperture to its smallest setting (largest f/number) and lock it.

If you're using a lens without an aperture ring then it's a bit harder. You can only use the camera in Shutter priority or one of the Program modes. You turn the command dial on the camera to change the exposure, and the aperture will change. If you want to use an exposure different than what the meter suggests, you can adjust it by using either exposure compensation or changing the ISO setting (or both).

If you need a manual, you can download one from
http://butkus.org/chinon/nikon/nikon_n6006af/nikon_n6006af.htm

No. You only need to do that when using any exposure modes where the camera needs to take full control of the aperture setting for you (basically everything except full manual metering and aperture priority metering). The idea is that by setting the lens to the minimum f-number (aperture) the camera can then automatically set the actual aperture required by the exposure meter and exposure program to anything between maximum aperture (lowest f-number) and the f22 set on the lens.

Aperture settings are independent of autofocus on all SLR cameras. If you're new to SLR photography then I highly recommend the latest (2009) edition of John Hedgecoe's New Manual of Photography. The link is just to show you the book and not an endorsement of the featured supplier; I'm sure that you'll want to make your own buying choices.

I hope this has helped, if so please return the favour by taking a moment to rate my answer. If not then please explain your problem in more detail and I'll be happy to offer further assistance.

OM-20 was basically a upgraded OM-10 with the manual adapter built in and a number of other refinements.

The viewfinder has LED's to show the shutter speed recommended by the camera's lightmeter for the ISO and aperture selected. It also has an exposure compensation indicator (the +/- symbol) and an indicator for flash ready which doubles up as a post-exposure flash confirmation. There is also the indicator lamp to show manual mode has been selected. OM-10 lacks the manual mode lamp and the +/- indicator.

Like the OM-10, the OM-20 is primarily an aperture priority automatic camera. In this mode you set the ISO film speed, choose which aperture you wish to use (with the ability to use the lens depth of field preview button) and then the camera selects the correct shutter speed. The +/- exposure compensation control allows the user to tell the camera to modify the recommended shutter speed by up to two stops either way.

In manual mode, there is no manual metering. The light meter behaves exactly as it does in aperture priority mode and the viewfinder shows the recommended shutter speed and not the manually selected one. Correct metering is therefore a case of adjusting the aperture first, and then choosing the correct shutter speed indicated in the viewfinder. If the user then decides to select a different shutter speed, then the aperture ring must be adjusted to maintain the correct exposure. For example the aperture is set to f8 and the camera recommends 1/60th of a second. The user decides that a faster shutter speed is required and chooses 1/250th, but the viewfinder remains showing 1/60th. In order to keep the same exposure value the user must open the aperture by two full stops to f4. The camera's light meter will detect the new aperture setting and providing the light on the object is unchanged the viewfinder shutter speed display should now show 1/250th as well to confirm the correct adjustment. Alternatively, the user can choose the shutter speed first by looking at what has been set on the control ring (or by turning the ring to the end of its travel and then counting the clicks from there as all experienced OM users do) and then turning the aperture ring until the shutter speed shown in the viewfinder matches what's been manually set.

It all sounds clumsy and complex but is done far more quickly than I've taken to type this and becomes second nature.

Aperture priority metering is selected on the camera by choosing AUTO on the mode selecter. In this mode the shutter speed ring has no effect and the viewfinder always displays the automatically selected shutter speed.

The green mark is the index for the aperture setting at 24mm, the yellow mark is the index at 50mm. These really only matter if you are setting the exposure manually and using an external meter. The green mark is the primary mark -- as you turn the ring you will notice that it lines up with a number at every clickstop, while the yellow one is a bit off.

The pull down lever you ask about is the aperture lock. Autofocus film cameras and all digital cameras expect the lens to be set at smallest aperture (highest number). They will give an FEE error if it is not set correctly. When you turn the aperture ring to smallest aperture you will be able to slide the white dot into position next to the orange mark, and that will lock the aperture ring so that it is not accidentally tgurned while using or changing the lens.

On that camera the needle is not supposed to move when the f-stop ring is turned. It should stay on whatever number it is on and you should set the ring manually to whatever the needle points to.

That camera was really not made to be easy to use in the manual mode. I guess Canon thought everyone would just use it in Auto.

CameraRepairs

exposure compensation can be dialed through the '+' and '-' keys in the upper right hand side of the camera body. The shutter speed should alone take care of the exposure meter if the aperture is more or less good...

ps: sometimes when we increase the shutter speed to 1/2000 th of a sec..it takes a while to reach the zero mark in the exposure bar since you need to dial more to reach an acceptable shutter speed like say 1/10th ...or 1"...

Regards,
Gaurav