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Posted on Jan 24, 2008
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1993 goodman status light 4 times blinking

I have 1993 goodman gas furnace. the furnace is blowing with cold air. no flame. the thermostat is running on battery. the status light on goodman is blinking 4 times. seems open limit switch on the panel description. I replaced the air filter. still no heat coming while fan is blowing. your help appreciated in advance

  • 4 more comments 
  • atlgeek Jan 25, 2008

    the limit switches (1 main and 1 aux )are attached onto the furnace and I see there are 4 rollout switches ( round and two wire attached and the other side has a switch with pink mark) around the furnace (top, 2 sides and 1 bottom). The filter was dirty and is replaced. is the rollout faulty?

    What would be the correct sequence to reset the system?
    thx

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  • Anonymous Mar 13, 2014

    model DGAA056,furnace, blows the 3 amp fuse, if both of the limit switches are hooked up, but if you unhook one of the switches the blower fan comes on and the light code reads 4 flashes, open limit switch, also made sure both switches where normaly closed.

  • Anonymous Mar 13, 2014

    model DGAA056,furnace, blows the 3 amp fuse, if both of the limit switches are hooked up, but if you unhook one of the switches the blower fan comes on and the light code reads 4 flashes, open limit switch, also made sure both switches where normaly closed.

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I have a goodman GMP075-3 that won't turn on. I think it is the pressure switch since I do not have a vent blockage. What is a venter and where can I find it??

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  • Posted on Jan 25, 2008
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If the code description for four flashes is an open limit switch, than you will need to figure out how many limit switches (they shut the furnace down in case of overheating) your unit has. They look like small discs with 2 wires attached. Look around the burner tubes for the limit. If there is a little red button than you lucked out it is a manual reset kind, if there is no red button than it will have to be replaced. You can try putting the two wires on the switch together just to test. Of course it is very dangerous to leave it bypassed. Also im sure air filter was so dirty that is why overheated??

  • Anonymous Jan 25, 2008

    I would use a volt-ohm meter to test all for continuity.

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Witch blower is running, the inducer or the systems blower?
System blower could mean the the high limit is opening and shutting down the systems gas train, I would check this out first.

The other problem could be with the pressure switch for the gas train, it is supplied from the inducer motor, check to see if it is operating fully.

HSI boards do go from time to time, this sounds more like a system control problem.

  • 4 more comments 
  • Anonymous Jan 25, 2008

    "4 blinks =open limit

    check main open limit or aux. open limit"

  • Anonymous Jan 25, 2008

    High limit is a normal closed position, and stays that way. Limits open in the event of a filter blockage or a coil blockage.

    High limits are located in the upper portion of the unit, locate it and jump that puppy out and see if she runs from there.

    Limits are cheap,$6.00 boards on the other hand can run up some cash, $120.00 and up depending on your unit.

  • Anonymous Jan 25, 2008

    On - OK
    1 Blink - Ignition failure. Check Gas flow, gas pressure, gas valve, flame sensor.
    2 Blinks - Closed pressure switch. Check pressure switch (stuck in closed position).
    3 Blinks - Pressure switch - failre to close. Check venter, pressure switch, vent blockage.
    4 Blinks - Open limit switch. Main limit or aux limit are open. (My comment - Means overheating in chamber. Often result of blocked intake air. Bad filter. In my case, plastic wrap had been sucked into the intake. )
    6 Blinks - False flame sensed. Check sticking gas valve.
    Rapid continuous blinking - Incorrect twinning, incorrect primary polarity. Reverse transformer secondary leads, reverse primary wires.

  • Anonymous Jan 25, 2008

    FYI I had a case not long ago of a 6 flash code, found that the ground wire from the control board was not secure. Must of gotton pulled when they replaced the filter

  • Anonymous Jan 25, 2008

    An open limit means the airflow temperature in the heat exchanger was too high or you had a roll out switch trip due to flame entering the burner area. Check your filters and evap coil and make sure they are clean. It would be a good idea to have the heat exchanger check as well for cracks due to how prone GMP-125's were to cracking with poor airflow.

  • Anonymous Jan 25, 2008

    dont forgetto mark me as fix ya ok

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Goodman furnace model #capf030b2c 4 blink code blower runs constant but no heat

https://hvac-boss.com/troubleshooting/goodman-furnace-error-codes/

According to this page, you can usually fix this 4 blink diagnosed problem by changing the air filter or tightening wiring (which it has a cautionary warning about tightening such too much) and checking the flue for blockage. The furnace has activated the primary open limit circuit.

Here is a troubleshooting page about the Goodman just blowing cold air: https://temperaturemaster.com/goodman-furnace-troubleshooting/#Goodman_Furnace_Blowing_Cold_Air

Poor air flow in the Goodman caused by blockages can result in the tripping of the rollover switches which would cause it to blow cold air. That is a safety measure. You don't want gas furnaces burning with insufficient air. Think carbon monoxide. Besides the air filter, the flame sensor or the burner could be dirty. The idea of trying to DYI that cleaning job is rather off putting. I hope changing the filter would work.

I trust it is not a fuse in the pilot flame sensor circuit blown. A repairman has the voltage testers for checking the electronics involved.

I can empathize with this. My furnace, another brand, went out recently. The repair man didn't know why it went out but simply adjusted a handle controlling gas flow to a position slightly different from what was recommended and it worked. All for $200.

https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/Furnace-Repair/36-377--/Goodman-Furnace-Troubleshooting

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zO1jKqwXu8s

https://www.goodmanmfg.com/products/gas-furnaces
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Heating Mode (Goodman Service Manual)

· The furnace control checks for an open main limit (this
limit is normally closed). If the limit is open, the furnace
will remain inoperable until the limit is closed. During
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· The venter blower is energized.· The vent pressure switch will close when it detects a
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· Thirty (30) seconds after the main valve is energized
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You will need to reset the furnace and have it run thru a cycle (or try). After three attempts, it will blink another error code that may tell you more.

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What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).
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My heater blows cold air. any ideas?

Your unit has a diagnostic light on the circuit board. You need to look thru a small viewing port to see it. Once you count the number of b links, remove the lower panel and look at the wiring diagram for an error code chart. Then read the following to give you some ideas what to do.

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).
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Furnace attempted to start but failed after so manay tries. This may help you.

Sequence of operation, Gas Furnace.

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the ignitor. The ignitor will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the ignitor gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the ignitor does not energize (bad control, bad ignitor), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not lite (dirty pilot), the burner does not lite (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Most newer furnaces will have a diagnostic center or control built into the control module. You may be able to view it as it is running thru a small viewing port. Some models will require the removal of an access panel prior to finding it. On the reverse of the access panel, there will be a diagnostic chart that will aide you in understanding any error code recorded (usually a blinking light).

This is why we technicians earn the big bucks!
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Always check little things like air filter, condensate drain and broken or loose wires.
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