Motor is on whenever i switch on i disconnected the twist throttle and it made no difference

Sounds like the throttle is stuck in the full position. Can you adjust the throttle to other positions ? There should be a spring to return the throttle to a "off" position - and then you will have to twist to make it go. The spring may be missing.

you could have several different things wrong to cause this. Batteries not charged or can't charge due to bad one, bad motor, bad control module, or bad connection in wiring in one or more places. My grandson's mx650 worked fine for a dozen or so charge cycles but then started with intermediate starting problems. The power light was red and the full light would be green but switch to low amber light and back and forth on its own with no motor response when was on low amber light. He had been running it in wet conditions a couple of times and am sure that was what caused the problem which after taking the battery panels off and examining closely found what was wrong. This problem caused the intermediate starting and stopping and also would not let batteries charge right. I moved wiring while looking at the green light and amber light and found when touching the fuses connections is when lights would change. looked at all 3 30 amp fuses and 2 of them was burnt and pitted. You could see the ark in low light at the fuse when you operated the throttle, that turned out to be a good test to see what was wrong and what caused the fuses to become pitted. I sanded the fuses and clean since they were not blown and used dielectric grease in the connection and that seems to have fixed the problem. I also used the grease in some of the other connections for good luck. The bike charges now like is supposed to and the throttle lights are ok now, no more going from green to amber when wanting power. I would say the running in wet conditions is what started the problem and washing off the bike with a hose would do the same thing.

If the lights on a the throttle are showing a full battery then try disconnecting the brake switches at the controller one at a time. If the bike works after disconnecting a brake switch then that switch is faulty and should be replaced.
There is some excellent information on trouble shooting and testing components here http://www.razorama.com/razor-installation-guides.html
also wiring diagrams here http://manuals.monsterscooterparts.com/recreational/Razor/Wiring/

TWIST GRIP SENSOR 4.10

REMOVAL

Remove the left side saddlebag, remove the left side cover, remove the main fuse, (Do not remove the switch housing assembly without first placing the 5/32 inch (4.0 mm) cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removal without the insert may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger of the front stoplight switch. Use the eyelet of an ordinary cable strap if the cardboard insert is not available.), place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket, remove the upper and the lower switch housing screws, loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing, remove the lower clamp screw with its flat washer, separate the upper and lower switch housings and remove the throttle grip from the end of the handlebar (a light tug may be necessary to release the index pins in the grip from their receptacle in the twist grip sensor seal cap), if present, pull the two cable clips on the right side handlebar switch conduit from the holes in the handlebar. FOR FLHR/C: remove the headlamp and the handlebar clamp shroud, remove the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector [204], 6-place Molex (black), from its T-stud on the fork stem nut lock plate (right side) and disconnect it, FOR FLHX, FLHT/C/U remove the outer fairing, remove the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector [204], 6-place Molex (black), from its T-stud at the top of the right fairing support brace (inboard side) and disconnect it, FOR FLTR remove the outer fairing and bezel and disconnect the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector [204], 6-place Molex (black). (Note that the external latch on the pin housing of the twist grip sensor connector will break if the twist grip sensor is pulled too strongly and a damaged latch will prevent a positive pin and socket housing engagement and also since the connector is not serviceable, any damage requires replacement of the twist grip sensor jumper harness. THEN gently pull the twist grip sensor out of handlebar only as far as necessary to access the green twist grip sensor connector. FOR BEST RESULTS straighten out the conduit on the Molex connector end of the jumper harness and feed it through the slot at the front of the handlebar while pulling it and if the harness sticks inside handlebar while pulling on the twist grip sensor, pull the Molex connector end to retract the harness somewhat and then try again gently working the harness back and forth in this manner until the twist grip sensor connector is accessible. (Note again, that if the external latch on the pin housing of the twist grip sensor connector will break if pried and that a damaged latch will prevent positive pin and socket housings engagement and that since the connector is not serviceable, any damage will require twist grip sensor jumper harness replacement). THEN gently insert a small flat blade screwdriver between the pin and socket housings and when the bottom edge of the latch is engaged separate the housings. (Do not pivot or rotate the screwdriver after insertion or damage to the pin housing will occur), remove the twist grip sensor.

INSTALLATION

(Take note that each twist grip sensor contains the terminals for installation of a heated throttle grip available through P&A and that while the seal cap protects the terminals from dirt and moisture it also serves as a retention device for installation of the throttle grip.)

Verify that seal cap is installed at end of the twist grip sensor. If the seal cap is not present, proceed by seeing if the seal cap is engaged onto the index pins inside the throttle grip and if so use a stiff piece of mechanics wire to lasso seal cap and pull it free of the index pins. If it is missing or damaged get a new one. THEN check the condition of the O-ring on the seal cap and because the O-ring is not sold separately a new seal cap will be required if the O-ring needs to be replaced. Install the seal cap engaging the legs in the slots at the end of the twist grip sensor. For best results try installing one leg first and depressing the second leg slightly with a small flat blade screwdriver push down on the seal cap until it is fully installed. THEN connect the green twist grip sensor connector and gently pull the Molex connector end of the jumper harness to draw the twist grip sensor into the handlebar. THEN fit the index tabs on the twist grip sensor into the slots in the handlebar noting that one index tab and slot are smaller than the others to prevent improper assembly. THEN slide the throttle grip over the end of the handlebar rotate the grip to verify that the internal splines are engaged with the splines on the twist grip sensor. (Take note now that it is not necessary to hold the throttle grip onto the handlebar because the index pins in the grip engage the receptacle in the seal cap of the twist grip sensor preventing the grip from sliding off). THEN position the lower switch housing beneath the throttle grip so the ribs at the end of the throttle grip engage the slot in the lower switch housing. THEN position the upper switch housing over the handlebar and the lower switch housing, start the upper and lower switch housing screws but do not tighten them at this point, verify that the wire harness conduit runs in the depression at bottom of handlebar, put the brake lever/master cylinder assembly inboard of the switch housing assembly engaging the tab on the lower switch housing in the groove at the top of the brake lever bracket, align the holes in the handlebar clamp with those in the master cylinder housing and start the lower screw with its flat washer, position it for rider comfort but do not pull the switch housings so far inboard as to cause the throttle grip to bind or drag on the handlebar and rotate the throttle grip to verify that it freely returns to the idle position. THEN starting with the top screw tighten the handlebar clamp screws to 72-80 in-lbs (8-9 Nm) always tightening the lower switch housing screw first, so that any gap between the upper and lower housings is at the front of the switch assembly. THEN tighten the lower and upper switch housing screws to 35-45 in-lbs (4-5 Nm), remove the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket and FOR FLHR/C connect the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector and install it on its T-stud on fork stem nut lock plate (right side) and install the handlebar clamp shroud and headlamp. FOR FLHX, FLHT/C/U draw the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector and conduit forward to the front of the upper fork bracket, and then route it under the right radio support bracket to the area behind the fairing support brace, connect the connector and install it on its T-stud at top of fairing support brace (inboard side) and install the outer fairing. FOR FLTR connect the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector and install the outer fairing and bezel. THEN, if present, install the two cable clips on the right side handlebar switch conduit into the holes in the handlebar install the main fuse, install the left side cover and install the left side saddlebag. (NOTE that whenever a new twist grip sensor (or ECM) is installed, you must put the engine run/stop switch in the RUN position and turn the ignition/light keyswitch to IGNITION and then back to OFF four times (without starting engine), allowing at least three seconds to elapse between ignition cycles. This is done because the ECM uses the first four ignition cycles to establish the optimum idle speed and so there may be initial performance problems such as high idle or hesitation when the throttle is opened if the procedure is not followed.) THEN turn the ignition/light key switch to IGNITION and apply the brake lever to test the correct operation of the brake lamp.

TWIST GRIP SENSOR JUMPER HARNESS

Removal

Remove the twist grip sensor. Get a length of strong flexible mechanics wire of sufficient strength to pull the conduit and connector through the handlebar without breaking AND of sufficient length that the free end will not be lost in the handlebar when pulled. THEN securely attach the mechanics wire to the jumper harness inboard of the twist grip sensor connector pin housing and for best results, install the mechanics wire onto the conduit to keep it from bunching up inside of the handlebar when it is pulled. THEN gently pull the Molex connector end of the jumper harness to draw the conduit, the connector and the mechanics wire out through the slot at the front of the handlebar and if the harness sticks at all inside of the handlebar, pull back on the twist grip sensor connector end to retract the harness slightly and then try again to gently work the harness back and forth in this manner until it is free. THEN remove the mechanics wire from the jumper harness.

I think you are talking about an electric motor on your bike . If the motor is New you may have a bad throttle switch . You can use an ohm meter to check the throttle switch . Connect the two leads of the ohm meter to the wires of the throttle switch ( dissconected) . As you turn the throttle the ohm reading should coraspond to how much you turn it .

It sounds like the throttle cable needs to be adjusted/connected. Check all the cables/wires going to your throttle.

Disconnect your throttle cables from your carb. See if you can manually move the drum on the right hand side of the carb. If it moves freely and springs back, the carb is good. Twist the grip and see what happens. Pull the two screws out of the casing that mounts to your handle bars and disconnect your cables. try twisting the grip. If the grip is good then VIOLA! You have isolated the problem. I recommend bathing the cables in WD-40. I have a 92 DR as well and that definitely made a difference for me. At this point it wouldn't hurt to remove your twist grip and clean it all out. You are at that point anyhow, may as well make it worth the mother of disassembling it all. Good luck!

Check the batteries, they need at least 12+volts to run scooter. Blinker may be burned out or the wire came loose. If batteries are charged Two things That could be wrong are: Twist throttle is NO Good, Or the controller is BAD. You need a voltage tester, (Disconnect the Wiring Harnesses) and check voltages coming out of the controller(the silver BOX with lots of wires) and see if it is sending voltage to the twist throttle. Controller wires to the Twist throttle should read 4-5 volts.

(Make Sure You Unplugged That Wiring Harness) There is 4-6 wires in that Wiring Harness then find + and - test them for voltage from that Controller box wiring harness. If You get a positive reading out of that Controller wiring harness then the Twist Throttle thing is bad. If you get NO READING out of that Controller Wiring Harness Then if is BAD. Normally it will be the dead batteries or the Twist Throttle that go bad. Batteries are expensive, Twist Throttle Cheap. Good LUCK

You may have over tighten the screws. try backing them out then when they are snug give just another 1/4 turn. Try that and see what happens. you may have to open it all back up and make sure that the throttle cable is not binding.