Is right use the amp with the x-over in lpf and also with and impedance of 2

1.Cut the appropriate size hole.
2. be sure the amp supports your sub with the proper impedance.
3.wire the plate to the sub
4. apply sealant to the plate where it touches the box. sealant, not glue.
5. connect you plate amp to power socket.
6. setup your preferences with the knobs on the plate amp, sub sonic, LPF, boost, gain etc.
check for leaks and fix them.

check to see if the signal to the amp is low pass and check to see if the switch is on high pass.. if all checks out send the amp back .. if u want to repair it email me at [email protected] and i would tell u how

lpf is low pass frequency. You would want to have it turned on if you are running a sub off the amp.

Hi,

Most fan cooled amplifiers would be fine on its side provided the flow of air is not impeded. Unless it's been modified the probability of a wire falling into the blades is pretty small. Where you may want to be concerned is if it's a convection cooled amplifier which would depend heat rising away from heat producing components and their heat sinks. Placing this type of amp on its side could reduce the efficiency of its cooling capabilities possibly causing it to thermally shut down and/or shorten its lifespan.

Please accept the solution if it's helpful. Do get back to us for any further query.

Thanks for contacting fixya.com

if you are trying to use it with the stock headunit you would need to buy a line output converter to use your amp and sub. after you buy the converter you will then need to splice into one of your rear speaker wires so you can run the rca's to the amp and continue with normal install

This could be the reason. If you look at the specs for this amp you will see that the continuous power out is rated for 380W bridged. The speakers rated at 450W should be able to handle close to 315W continuous. Now if you split these numbers being you have bridged these speakers, you drive each one up to about 190W continuous. The speakers are being driven approximately by 60% of the rated capability. I personally like to keep it right where you got it, not exceeding 80% of the speakers rated capacity.

Here are the specs for the AMP:

Specifications

Peak Music Power 760 Watts

Number of Channels 2

Load Impedance Capability 2~8 Ohm (Stereo), 4~8 Ohm (Bridged)

Continuous Power (4 ohm) 125W x 2

Continuous Power (2 ohm) 190W x 2

Continuous Power Bridged (4 ohm) 380W x 1

Frequency Response 10Hz ~ 50kHz

Total Harmonic Distortion 0.008%

Signal-to-Noise Ratio 100dB

Dimensions 12" x 2-3/8" x 12-3/4"

Features

Bridgeable

Channel # Capability 1/2/3

PWM Regulated MOSFET Power Supply

Screw-Type Speaker Terminals

Balanced Isolator Input Circuit

RCA Inputs 2 Channel

Input Level Control Hi-Volt (200mV ~ 6.5v)

Built-in Crossover Selectable LPF (80Hz, -12dB/Oct.)

Hello rwalinske, The abbreviations "hpf" and "lpf" stand for High Pass Filter and Low Pass Filter. They do exactly what their names imply. They allow frequencies above or below a specific setting, while blocking or attentunating frequencies below or above the setting. There's also a "band pass filter" which allows frequencies within a specific range below the high setting and above the low setting. Finally there's a "subsonic" filter which blocks inaudible frequencies below the threshold of hearing. The hpf is generally used in speaker component systems to send the high frequencies to the tweeters. The lpf is normally used with subwoofer systems and is set to send frequencies below the setting to the subwoofer. While most amps will amplify a wide range of frequencies, they are more efficient when the range is limited depending on their intended use. For example, a typical 2-channel amp might have a frequency response of 20-20KHz. When used to drive a set of normal speakers, you would not use either the lpf or the hpf, but simply let it send all frequencies to the speakers. But when used to drive a subwoofer, and operated in "bridged" mode, the amp can put all of it's amplifying power into frequencies than can be used by a subwoofer if the lpf switch is turned on. Hope this helps.

Hello again ronnieyannon,

It's probably best to allow the amp that is powering the subs to control the frequencies going to the sub(s). I would not use the lpf on both the head unit and the amp in any case. The control settings are not completely precise and you could end up with a lot of tweaking between the units to get the sound you want. I'd send full range to the amp and with it playing something with a lot of bass, set the 401s to "LP", the crossover slope to near maximum, and then adjust the frequency until it sounded best to me. Starting on page 11 of your manual are the Rockford-Fosgate recommended adjustment procedures, including setting the gains and the filter frequency.

Those numbers for the lpf on your head unit sounds like it allows you to decrease (-24dB), as well as increase (+6dB) the bass at the specific frequencies of 50, 63, 80 and 100Hz. You probably don't want to decrease the bass boost for subs. And the 401s will allow a boost up to 12dB and is variable from 50-250Hz.

Hope this helps.

If I'm reading the amp manual right, you should be able to connect the amp in 3 channel mode. To do this:

• Connect both left door speakers in parallel to Ch A Left.
• Connect both right door speakers in parallel to Ch A Right.
• Bridge Ch B and connect it to the new 8" sub.
• Set the Ch A LPF/HPF to HPF.
• Set the Ch B LPF/HPF to LPF.

This should allow you to run all 4 door speakers and the sub from the amp. It will also automatically route non-bass to the door speakers and "only bass" to the sub.

1) legacy products are highly overrated and i have never seen one put out the power it claims
2) if you are running the amp bridged, you need to match the impedance of the speakers to the amps highest output impedance, otherwise your system will not sound all that great...

what size fuse or fuses does your amp use? what size wire did you install with (power and ground)? did you connect direct to battery or did you connect to a fuse block or similar? did you use a stiffening capacitor? does it sound like it is clipping when you turn it up or is it just distorted? what kind of box are you using for the speakers (ported, vented, sealed, bandpass)?

if you give me the model number of your speakers and your amplifier i can probably help you more, but with the information you have provided, this is all i can offer..

hope it helps,
trin