The red part of the picture is curved and separated from the other colors.

OR



OR







OR



OR

I will post here but it will be in several parts since it is too long
for the space here--ignore some of the jibberish--it will be there
because the document is written in ms word. I am also going to post a
photo of the protect resistors and the fuses. If the set still turns
on the fuses will be good.



SD TECH





I will post here but it will be in several parts since it is too long for the space here--ignore some of the jibberish--it will be there because the document is written in ms word. I am also going to post a photo of the protect resistors and the fuses. If the set still turns on the fuses will be good.

SD TECH

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HERE is what you will need: (most of this you can buy on the
internet or at local electronics stores)





One new: STK-393-110 CONVERGENCE IC


One good soldering iron


Solder


De soldering braid or wick


Liquid flux


Heat sink compound (grease)


Denatured alcohol


One small clean toothbrush


One electric screw gun to REMOVE screws





Turn the set on and examine the picture for how the
Convergence looks bad---when you are done examine it again---once in a great
while you will get and install a new IC that is bad. Remember this when you
have finished—if the convergence is still bad but different from what you
started with you may have installed a new I.C. that was bad. Turn the Set off.

Unplug
set.


Remove
back cover.


Remove
front speaker grill and inspection plate behind it.


Remove
the 2 or 3 black screws that go thru the back edge of the plastic frame
that hold the chassis down.


Where
all the video and audio jacks are on the right edge of them you will see a
diagonal plastic (Black) remove the two brass screws from the outside
edge, remove another to the right bottom and a third smaller screw forward
and to the left; remove plastic piece and all four screws and set them
aside.


Look
carefully at main board in center of the set.


You
will find a number of screws hold it into the plastic frame.


Towards
the left back edge of this (to the right of the plastic you removed) you
will find a metal cover with a small screw on either end. It has a lot of round holes punched in
it.


Remove
both screws and pull the shield up and off---remove the board beneath it
by releasing the two tabs on the bottom right side and pulling the board
out—handle it with care as it is the digital convergence board that stores
the set’s memory of adjustments.
Set it aside


At
this point you need to pull the entire Chassis back at least a few inches---If
it does not slide back look for a plastic latch on either side near the
front of it. Some sets have the
latches on the left or right side—black plastic tabs that lift up.


Usually
the board has 2 screws in the front and rear corners of the board and one
almost dead center in the middle of the board---make sure you get all of
them out before you remove the board.

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When
you removed the back there was a diagonal board that slides out just below
the lens; pull it out and it will give you more room to continue.


There
are a number of plugs on the board.
Some of these sets have a small circuit board located at the very
front of the middle board with plugs going into it, release the tabs at
the bottom and pull the board up and out of your way. Now you should see 5 white fold over
plugs---three on the left edge and two on the right---do not touch them
yet.


With
the little board(if your set has it) out, unplug the several plugs at the
front edge of the board(they are all idiot proof---different number of pins
so you cannot put them in the wrong place) and are marked with letters
that are also marked on the board.
There is another 2 wire plug mid way to the right side of the
board.


Now
the Tricky part: the 3 ivory color plugs on the left side that fold over and
2 more on the right side. You need
to do this carefully---with a small flat bladed screwdriver pull up on one
end until each comes loose(the reason we removed the board under the
shield and the plastic piece (there usually is also a plug under it that
you need to unplug) is to make this part more easy.


Once
you have all 5 of these lifted up and out of the way check to make sure
you have not left any plugs still attached to the board.


Pull
the entire chassis back as far as you can get it (you may have to release
wires on either side of the set from the plastic ties that bundle
them---take your time).

From
the back of the set slide the chassis as far back as you can. There are 3 more screws on the front
edge of the heat sink that hold it to the board and the middle one has a
wire with a connector on it. This
is the reason you need to get the chassis back; the screws are identical
to the others and go thru the circuit board into the plastic frame where
it is mounted.


You
should now be able to lift the entire Heat sink from the set (sometimes
you may need a putty knife to break the IC chip loose from it) Set it
aside and look the board over to make sure you have not missed any of the
identical brass colored screws.
Move any plugs clear of the board.
There are 2 or 3 tiny plastic tabs at the front edge of the board;
push them and lift the board up from the frame---do it slowly and if you
missed any screws you will find it binds somewhere. The board lifts up front and is tucked
into notches on the back side---Once it is clear of the plugs remove it
from the set. You are halfway home.


With
the board removed look at the dozen or so light blue resistors right in
front of the STK IC; if any of them look somewhat white in the middle you
need to replace them—they are all 3.9 ohm and you can check them with a
multi-meter just like checking a fuse-I usually check them all even if
they look good (saves having to pull the board out a second time). They are protection in case some part of
the IC shorts. If the resistors are
all good you need to un-solder the STK.

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With a
good soldering iron use a braided wick (called a de-solder braid—radio
shack has them) and to make it easier use some liquid flux---most
electronics stores sell this. These
sets all use lead free solder and it may not be easy to unsolder without
the flux put on it first.


Once you
have unsoldered and removed it take some denatured alcohol with a tooth
brush and clean the bottom of the board where the STK was soldered in—this
gets all the flux and any tiny solder specs out of the way. Let the board
dry for a minute or so and look at it carefully---if you have to, use the
de-solder wick again and clean up any solder on the board where the IC
came thru—clean again with alcohol if you need to—the cleaner the surface
the better and faster the new solder will attach.

Install
the new IC---make sure all the pins are straight or you will have problems
getting it in—with it in place hold it and turn the board over and solder
the pins at either end to keep it there; AT THIS POINT APPLY MORE SOLDER
FLUX TO ALL THE PINS BEFORE YOU SOLDER THE IC IN! Straighten it if you did not get it
upright and finish soldering all the pins.
When you are done, with a good light take a very close look at all
the pins to make sure they are all soldered and not touching another
pin. You can also use the denatured
alcohol again to clean all the pins on the IC you just soldered.


With the
IC soldered install the circuit board back into the set---back edge first
into the notches at the back of the plastic frame---make sure you do not
hang up on any plugs or connectors; with the front edge of the board
gently push down until the tabs on the front edge engage—the board must be
perfectly straight to go in correctly.


With a
putty knife remove all the old white grease from the heat sink
(careful—this stuff stains hands or clothing) and clean the heat sink with
denatured alcohol. You are now ready to attach many of the plugs back to
the board; you will find if you do it now it is easier to reach them with
the heat sink removed---put all of the main plugs back and leave the fold
over plugs for last. If you had the
model with the small plug in circuit board on the front of the main
board—install it after you have installed the plugs in front of it.


A note
about the 3 plugs on the left edge and the two on the right edge---you
have to be careful when you snap them back in---sometimes one of the metal
pins will lift up when you do this---hold your fingers down and apply even
pressure---if you see any metal pin sticking up a little use a fine flat
bladed screwdriver and carefully push it back down into the plug.


Presuming
you have now installed the board and have ALL the plugs back in
place,---any wires or cables you moved to get room you should now put back
into the plastic hold off that contained them—clean up!


Before
you install the heat sink back, apply heat sink grease (important and you
can get it at almost any electronics supplier that sells the liquid Flux
and solder) This grease is the reason the original IC failed—after several
years it dries out and an IC cannot move the heat fast enough---the grease
is for quick transfer of heat from the IC to the metal heat sink.


Now:
if you used an electric screw gun to remove screws---do not use it to put
them back—it is very easy to crack and damage the board if you use a screw
gun and to strip the screw that goes into the heat sink.


Place
the greased heat sink back in position and attach the 3 screws that hold
it to and thru the board---I find starting all three and then tightening
them by hand works best; don’t forget to put the wire with the grommet
back to the middle screw.


Replace
the metal plate that goes across the chip and hold it in place until you
get the screw back in (it has a tab that engages into a little hole) once
you get the plate screw back in tighten it down firm (it holds the IC
tight to the heat sink).


With
the heat sink installed, install the board on the left side back by
plugging it in and install the metal box over it and the screws front and
back by hand.


Check
that you have all the plugs you removed plugged back in.


Replace
all the screws that hold the board into the plastic frame.